Usually, it is not possible to enlarge a picture (increase the resolution) and keep the same quality. When you try to do so, it is the same as magnifying the picture many many times. If you've ever done this, notice how the picture loses details and pixelates, or turns into squares of color without fine detail. A picture meant only for a monitor does not need as much detail stored in the file to still look good on screen. A picture for printing, however, needs more detail (a larger file) because a printer can print at a higher resolution than your monitor can display. (more or less, anyway) It gets a bit confusing because cameras and monitors use pixels-per-inch, yet printers use dots-per-inch. If you google dpi and/or ppi, you can probably find a better explanation than what I've suggested here.

Well, if you jump the yarn and needle size, you will end up with a bigger sweater, but you will have to make the necessary adjustments for the length, which will also grow. The first sweater I ever knitted had a Fair Isle yoke and although the directions specified sport weight yarn, I knitted it in worsted. I was 5'2"/110 lbs at the time and the sweater ended up fitting my DH who was 5'10"/180! However, a search of "Plus size knitting patterns" turned up this site: Here is a link that might be useful: Plus size patterns

At least hammer out the two inch portion as two inches would be the absolute minimum that you can pour over in most areas and it's just not enough, imo. Drill 5/8" holes with a masonry bit/hammer drill and epoxy 3/8" rebar stubs sticking up about 1-1/2" - 2 inches every 16". Then tie wire mesh to the stubs at the top so the concrete can get under the mesh. You can also drill 3/4 to 1 " holes in the existing concrete randomly about every 16" or so to give another avenue of connect for the new to the old along with using the rebar/ mesh. Properly compacting any dirt/gravel areas where not going over the existing concrete is key for a sound base. Depending on your native soils type, you might want to dig out and down and replace it with a compactible base that will keep it stable. Your local masonry supplier will have the info for what works in your area.

I think this worked--One is a picture of what the front will look like and the other is the plan showing the larger garage and the sewing room set back. Also, the roof line for the garage is not right--it won't be that high. I have a new upgraded program and I need to decide the exact size of the addition before I rebuild the roof. I just realized the picture show a small window where the half bath is--I have taken the window out and move it next to the french doors. Sue in Wyoming