I don't think thick black counters is bad and 2 inches really is more traditional than thick, but I'm also concerned about the darkness. I don't see a lot of windows in the space--a few nearby but are there more that didn't make it into the tour?

Is it generally a pretty bright room? It's sure tempting. Black counters would be classy (and set off your current range). But butcherblock might be safer and just as classy and not THAT much harder to keep up. (And if they do start to look bad after a few years, you can laminate them...)

I think you'll have to go to the craft store and pick up a roll of black kraft paper (or whatever that stuff is called--usually brown, but can be had in black) and paper your kitchen counters. It's one of those things that you really have to be there. Will it look good? Yes. Will it be too dark? Can't tell from here.

dust magnet is the same thing as solid black laminate: we have it in a wet bar area-a real pain.At least get moderate veining-how about a pewter or dk gray shade-something with nuggets or elements in the pattern.....

Don't think butcherblock are hard to care for. They are forgiving, warmer than stone, easy to resurface, don't show dust like black counters do. They look warm and wonderful with cool white cabinets. If you like the look I would not turn away from butcherblock because of fears about upkeep. I think on a day to day basis shiny black would take more upkeep.

I think it'd show the dust too much also. i wouldn't like that. a lot of people with a black stove top say the same thing.

I'm planning to a bit of 50's 60's vibe but not too purist. I think a solid black would be very dark and hard to keep looking clean. Lots of great slightly patterned blacks that don't read so dark out there (Formica, Pionite, Nevamar and Arborite all have good ones)

Arborite samples:

Inukshuk Carbon

Brushed Pewter

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Tatami-Nezumi

I was just up at the Miele Gallery this weekend and they had the Brushed Pewter installed on some counters. Has some black in it but reads very light with overhead light. Inukshuk also reads light but has some flecks in it (without looking speckled). I have only looked at the Tatami-Nezumi on the website. I like the ones that pull a bit more retro and Formica just launched a bunch that also look good (more like the old textile based laminates). Butcher Block is great but I have to say I wouldn't want it everywhere in my kitchen - wood does require some upkeep.

The Wilsonart Soapstones have a fair amount of pattern so they shouldnt show dust like a solid black. What did you think of the Pearl Soapstone?

Congrats on discovering the wide world of laminates! If you haven't actually visited a place that offers samples, find one if possible. If you don't like dusting, you need to do this. It becomes clear very quickly what they are really like. Bring some dirt, crumbs, dust along with you if you need to.

We have light wood cabs. Before my decor plans got turned upside down by deciding to omit a big backsplash, I was enamored by Pionite "Bernard" which was sorta granity and also by some of the faux aluminum surfaces--but there were so many other options I couldn't decide. Once we omitted the pattern on walls we decided we needed a bigger countertop pattern so we ended up with 180FX Formica "Antique Mascarello" which I convinced myself was lighter than it really is. It's medium-dark but so mottled that there is a little of everything. This stuff doesn't show ANYTHING--I have to look sideways to see the crud or use fingertips for detecting. Do a search for very helpful discussions of this product. There are a number of photos on the GW.

(Why would there be any problem with the depth of the overhang of the laminate? I have areas of countertop that are nearly 2 inches in overhang because they are positioned over my pullout cutting boards. I can feel the countertop substrate materials on the underside; you could swab it with urethane to protect it, I suppose, as we did over the dishwasher opening where we were worried about steam damage.)

Here is a link that might be useful: Pionite colors

my next door neighbor did her kitchen last year and went with solid black. She really regrets it and says it is very hard to keep looking clean. I like the look of that brushed pewter chip, and I think that butcher block would be wonderful too.

Whoops, forgot to insert my address when creating the Wilsonart link. This should work:
Wilsonart Standards

"I don't see a lot of windows in the space--a few nearby but are there more that didn't make it into the tour?"
Oh, fori, I wish! The one thing I was dreading last summer while planning our wedding was moving from my bright apartment with it's wall of windows to DH's MH with only 3 narrow windows in the main room (and 1 in each BR). When the weather is nice I leave the door open with the glass storm door letting in light, but the room is never really "bright" like my inspiration kitchens.

I love the warmth and classic look that comes from butcherblock, and my dream kitchen would have butcherblock and/or stainless steel countertops. However, there are a couple downsides to butcherblock for me (in addition to the possible question of upkeep, which seems to have people on both sides). I'd want to use Ikea since it's the most cost-effective option (before shipping, less than half the cost of what I was quoted for laminate), but that means either driving 7 hours, or paying double the price (still fairly reasonable, I know) to have it shipped. Then my kitchen would pretty much be my dream kitchen...but I may not want to leave when my husband decides it's time to sell in the next couple years! ;) This place is paid off, so it makes sense to stay for a while, but it's a 2br mobile home, so we'll be looking for a different "forever home" to raise kids in, hopefully in the country. So, right now I'm trying to find the best compromise between making the kitchen feel like "mine" and appealing to potential buyers...and in doing it as inexpensively as possible. My dream kitchen can wait.

Laminate installed may be comparable or higher than butcherblock...but if I can re-laminate my current countertops, it looks like I could save hundreds! Plus avoid excess waste...plus circumvent DH's claim that we don't need new countertops. Menards had stock sheet laminate for dirt cheap, but I wasn't crazy about the patterns, and I'd have ended up attempting to miter the corners, so now I need to see if it's worth it to order sheet laminate in a pattern of my choice.

Don't worry; I had no intention of going with solid black, especially not in a high gloss! It's hard enough to keep my black car clean. Much as I hate the purple, that pattern does blessedly hide everything. That's why I like the soapstone and mineral patterns.

palimpsest - I do like the pearl soapstone! I just wasn't sure if it would be too light, so I thought I'd avoid naming that one to see if someone like you (with more established good taste than I have) might mention it. :)

caryscott - thanks for the Arborite chips! I'm curious to see brushed pewter in person. The local appliance store that gave me the laminate quote carries Arborite, so I have seen some samples, but I doubt they'd sell it to me in sheets. I figure I'll have to drive to HD to order that.

florantha - I love the idea of bringing my own dust! :) There isn't actually a problem with the 2 inch counter edge, but I noticed when looking at historical kitchens in the book Bungalow Kitchens, and also when finding modern inspiration pics, that I prefer the look of thinner counters, in the 1-1.5 inch range. A thicker countertop seems to grab more attention, particularly in a high contrast colors.

Anyone else have color recommendations? I may try to get up early enough to price laminate before work in the morning (though I should probably spend that time painting cabs).

OT...duh. I thought you meant 2 inches of overhang toward the room, not 2 inches of depth from top of countertop downwards. You're talking the depth of the lip, yes? Talk to your installer--you can have what you want I suspect. But this might be a detail that only you care about and if you're trying to stay true to goal of economy, a nonstandard lip might cost more.

I ended up taking samples out into the parking lot and kicking dirt onto them at our vendor showroom. Very instructive.

Well I knew overhang probably wasn't the right term, florantha, just couldn't think of anything better! Depth of lip, yes, thank you! I agree it's a detail that probably bugs only me, and even then *probably* not to the point where I care enough to pay more right now.

Now that you mention it, though, the overhang from cabinets to edge of countertop is nearly 2 inches, as well (probably 1 7/8), and it would be nice if that were just a tad less! The Ikea butcherblock comes in 25 5/8", so if I "splurge" and go that route, I'd probably end up needing to trim nearly 2 inches off the thing to be able to reach my drawers!

I'm still waiting on my contractor to call me back on walls so I can bug him with countertop questions. What is it with contractors taking so long in returning calls? Is it just my problem because my projects are smaller scale, or is this universal? Love my contractor, grateful he responded quickly to bid, but tired of waiting on actual bid!

I measured again last night to double check cost on butcherblock (assuming it all cuts nicely to size). If I use one long piece for the bar-thingy above the sink (is there a better name for that, too?), total cost would be $1078 after shipping. Making the bar-thingy with a butt-joint in the middle instead would bring cost down to $998. Either way shipping is $349, so not exactly "doubling the cost" as I said earlier, and still quite a bit less than the $1400 new laminate quote from the appliance store.

I ran out of time to drive to HD this morning, so I'll have to do it tomorrow on my day off to get a better idea of costs on new laminate or sheet laminate for re-laminating and what patterns they can get. Apparently Wilsonart recommends not putting new laminate over old, though mrsmarv did it...

Oh! And another color question regarding laminate: how important do you think it is that the counter color tie in to the floor? Janie-k's kitchen has the black tiles referencing the black countertop and the green kitchen I posted has hardwood, which is pretty neutral. I like how florantha pointed out that black counters would nicely tie in my old range, but my faux slate vinyl flooring has tones of brown and gray...if I stick with formica, would the pearl soapstone or brushed pewter suggested by palimpsest and caryscott coordinate better? Or is it all neutral enough not to worry about it?

Here is a link that might be useful: Flooring

*sorry for posting incessantly to my own thread; just realized I credited florantha with the observation about my range when it was actually fori.

Hehe. Laminate in one of the not quite blacks might be a good choice, especially if you're thinking about resale. The slatey ones are not REALLY darker than what you've got now, and the cabinets are getting lighter. I think you can still end up with a brighter kitchen than you have now.

(Formica will send free samples, by the way. Or see if you can borrow samples form stores. It would be good to double check the matching with the floor, even though it's PROBABLY neutral enough.)

Sorry about the windows. :) Strategically placed mirrors can help. I didn't realize it was a mobile home but that explains why the kitchen is smaller than normal but better laid out than normal. Painting cabinets and updating surfaces makes a lot of sense here. It's very much on its way to excellent.