az, there is not really a problem doing what you want to do if you can re-install the waterproof connectors over the new splice. If you think there is the possibility of water getting into the splice and migrating into the wiring after you re- make the connections, then you could wrap the splice with self amalgamating tape. Self amalgamating tape is sold at Lowes, H/Depot Etc, both in the Electrical and Plumbing Depts,. It is a rubber tape that you stretch as you apply it over a wiring splice and as it is lapped over, it seals up and is totally waterproof [if applied properly]. Just stretch it well as you wrap and it will be a watertight seal. Home plumbers use it for sealing water leaks in pipes, but it was originally developed for sealing splices in electrical wiring and high voltage cables. The 12 volts you are dealing with, is no great issue, as far as danger to you or animals life if it did leak out a little, but it is always wise, no matter what the voltage is, to keep water and any electrical connections apart from each other. "Horton"

Hey there. Almost without a doubt they must be above water. There are different kinds of lights but most of them use a 10 watt halogen bulb that lights up in a kind of bubble underwater. I have noticed a lot of people like these daisy-chain lights that fail when one dies but I think it is annoying. I saw some brass lights that were to die for but finding the right light gets real tired real soon. I use the single lights from Harbor Freight at under $10 and pick up replacement bulbs when I see them on sale but if the case is properly closed a bulb will last a long time. Now if only some one would explain how to make them all work off of one transformer. By the way, is it true you can damage a halogen bulb by getting your fingerprints on it? Sandy

Wrong switch. Old floor lamps used a 4 position switch - off, cct 1, cct 2, cct 1 + cct 2. This was connected so that 1 lamp was on cct 1 and 2 lamps were on cct 2. Thus turning the switch gave you 1, 2, or 3 lamps. Diodes won't work on AC. Well, they sort of will; but they'll only work with incandescents, and you'll get reduced brightness. If you or someone else later fit compact fluorescents you could have a hazardous situation. All that aside, Jason is right; you will void the fixture's UL listing by tinkering with it. What's more, based on your description, you're a little weak in the knowledge-of-basic-circuits department. I think you should leave well enough alone.

Greetings all, I know this is an old thread, however the question still exists and the question needs to be directly answered. I find the number of available pull-switch available lights to be very rare, so I've learned to do this without issue. A fluorescent fixture is an excellent choice in many cases such as this as it delivers a better coverage of light and looks much better. There are a couple of things to be aware of here. 1. Find a place in the light where the light and the mounting of the light will not be effected by the pull chain and the actual act of pulling down on the chain. You are better off having to make an extension to the pull-chain line if necessary, than mounting it to a flimsy area of the light. Near a corner or a reinforced area of the metal housing, usually are stronger mounting places. A 5/16 drill bit will be needed to make the hole in the housing (check your switch for exact size, and usually you will need to drill at least 1 pilot hole because of the thin material. My "step" drill bit works very well here. 2. The switch interrupts the hot line and needs to be located where both you can work and the switch can be mounted. Sometimes the ends of the light are too far away.Be careful on the ladder while wiring. Tape, Label & Be safe.