I needed to replace just one, and finally took on the challenge to build it myself. No woodworking skills, and limited tools. Took forever, but was quite pleased with the result. Not a project I would care to do again, nor recommend the adventure. Measure yours (different sizes?) and carry that data with you, with a tape measure. You may find some in good shape at a yard sale. Easy to repaint. Accept slightly larger, which can be trimmed down to fit (not smaller). Junk shops have them. Habitat for Humanity resells them. Craig's List. FreeCycle offers. All should be in a price range of $2 - $10 ea. A little DIY work can save some bucks. Any local retirees with skills who would like to pick up a few bucks? Good luck. Here's my frame being painted, waiting for glass. Total materials was $40.

littlealexa, I went through the same process last year. You can look up the threads which has additional useful information, and with some of the same useful folks offering their opinions. I opted to rehab my windows, at considerable cost, and if I were to do it again, I would opt for a really nice, aesthetically sympathetic replacement window. In the end we paid about $600 a window for cosmetic and structural rehab, including all new spring bronze weatherstripping, weatherstripping routed into the sashes, etc... We also paid about $200 a window for the top rated Harvey's. I also caulked well around the exterior and interior of the windows. In the end, our drafty windows turned into leaky windows. A nice improvement - no more need for the plastic sheets over the windows, but the level of comfort is still not where it should be. Neighbors replaced their old double hungs with a nice Marvin for $800 a window. The difference is really really noticeable. Their air infiltration, that used to be similar to ours is now about nil. The weight pockets will always be a draft problem unless they are insulated. This involves having to take the trim off from the inside, an enormous pain, and not part of the normal old window rehab process. I am reluctanlty about to begin this process. Not needing a storm is also a nice convenience, I now think, and much nicer aesthetically from the outside. I would strongly suggest that you get a good referral for a Marvin or similar dealer and see what they say, and if possible ask for a reference where you can see where they have replaced "old" windows. All cases are different, but I would urge you to thoroughly check all options. I know it gets cold in Chicago! Good luck.

Ma'am, the term I use to describe the process of,"DRAGGING", pertinent information from a poster so that a reflective advise van be applied is, "Internet Dentistry." There is a slim to no chance that any of the 10,000 or so contributors have been to your dwelling. So, when it took you 3 posts to say,"There is a metal frame attached to the wooden door frame of our patio. The old screen door attached to this metal frame. We're taking out the old one but it turns out there isn't a new one included in the door kit--and they told us there would be. Just found out from the manufacturer that this door isn't designed to need a frame." Which could have saved a lot of time had it been included in the first post, and as of yet, you have elected to omit and mfg. reference, or the "store" where it was purchased. So;"There is a metal frame attached to the wooden door frame of our patio" What you do not say is if this is just the hinge bar from a typical screen door, or if it is a wrought Iron frame from a security screen door. "Just found out from the manufacturer that this door isn't designed to need a frame." There are screen doors, both steel and aluminum, that are custom built to fit prescribe openings, and have the hinges welded, but, you, must provide the specific size. But, since you have elected not to return it, there is probably more omissions.

taddpeake, By now you've probably have the screen out, right? Sounds like your style storm window is mill finish (metal color) and only has two tracks, right so far? If I'm on the right page, the bottom screen in the outside track is removable by first removing the bottom inside glass panel and setting it aside. Then take the top glass panel in the outer track out. It is removable. If you were successful so far, now you can study the way the screen was put into the track. Looking down from the top, see if there is any play or space between the screen and the side channel it is mounted into. A larger gap on one side indicates the the screen is either moved right to left or the reverse and pops loose. You can then manage to pull the screen in towards you to remove. Now if all the above doesn't work, then I don't know. There are so many style storm windows and different methods of their removal. If above fails, write back and fill us in. All the best, The PorchGuy Here is a link that might be useful: My Album