I used to have aluminum storm windows and they were such a pain. And they were not energy efficient at all. Mine were 'double hung', meaning they slid up and down. to get a pane out you had to force it to one side, or the other and the other side would clear enough that you could tilt it out for removal. I'm guessing yours is the same way, except you would have to lift the pane up enough so the bottom could pull out a bit and then pull down to slip it out of it's upper channel. The screen works the same way and you may have to get that out first. The best investment I ever made on my home was getting rid of those windows and putting in vinyl clad double pane insulated windows that tilt in for washing.

Hi Jayme1: If you are stuck with keeping what you have, you can get a product to clean the aluminum frames at a hdwr or box store. Have you removed the glass and screens on any windows yet? If you do and get them back in place after cleaning them, do they move up and down? If not there are products like sill glide etc that you spread on the tracks. I noticed the wood condition above the windows and on the sills. For this kind of wear, I use Peel&Stop...I scrape all the loose paint and apply this clear product and then paint over it with a good oil base paint after filling holes etc. if screens are missing, you can buy a kit and make them for missing ones. Not too hard to do after the first couple of trys. Hope this helps.

From the photo - That is not black trim. That is the storm window frame with a black accent paint around it. I can guarantee you that when you remove the storm window, the fin of the aluminum window beneath it will not be exposed. With vinyl siding, it is NEVER correct to install exterior trim on top of the siding. I don't know what your original siding was, underneath the vinyl. Do you? But with aluminum windows, I can almost guarantee you that the siding butts up against the window frame. IF there was a casing trim of some kind, it was most likely removed when the vinyl siding was installed. You remove the storm window. Then you remove the sashes/glass and mullions (if any) from the window, leaving just the frame. Then you pry the frame into the opening, pulling out the nails. You also hope at this point that the vinyl "J" channel was not nailed through the window fin. If so, the "J" will come off with it. When the frame is out, you then have the opening you will be dealing with. You can have the new window made to slip between the "J" and cutting back the sheetrock, or you can have the new window made to fit sheetrock to sheet rock, and trim the outside appropriately. You'll be able to see where the studs are, and the window cannot be bigger than the rough stud to stud opening. The problem is the vinyl siding. I hesitate to recommend cutting that back. Perhaps someone else here has a suggestion on how to do that without risking cracking/chipping and ruining the siding. The other problem with cutting it back to reveal the window fin is that you no longer have the right "J" channel - though maybe they can find some and slip it around the siding cut. But then you also cannot nail it properly after the fact. This is why I recommend leaving the "J" and siding alone. What abosolutely MUST be done in your situation is that the proper drip cap/flashing MUST be applied above the window. It must go up behind the sheathing, and turn out over the window, extending past the "J" channel, and then a downward bend of app 1/2". In your case, you have to have someone custom bend that on site. The addition of vinyl siding will make any pre-made drip cap unusable. It must start from up behind the sheathing or original siding, NOT the vinyl siding. Also make sure that the new windows are fully injected around the frame with low expanding insulating foam. This will be an absolute must for your application. That's probably clear as mud. But I did my best for you. Keep in mind, this is a standard every day job for any competent window company, and I did thousands of windows like this that never leaked. But if you get a crew in there that takes short cuts and depends on caulking for shedding water, you're going to be in big trouble down the road. Hope that answers your question. What the other guys here said is more true than you can know. "Contractor" guys are clueless about this kind of stuff, and it shows in the end results, and we've seen it a million times. I also want to tell you that if you chince on this, you will get a chince result and look. The money has to come out of somewhere. You don't want it to be the product or the workmanship. Pay for a good job done right, and you won't be doing it again in less than 10 years. Ignore this advice, and you will. It's not an insult to your intelligence, which I'm sure is adequate. It's just the fact of it. And unless you do this for a living for years, you cannot know, and I don't mean to offend, but that's the reality.

Mary, Are you referring to window restoration or just sealing up some existing windows? The two are going to be very different type professionals. If it it just sealing up some exterior trim on windows, a decent painter can do that. If its window restoration, that is a different ball of wax. Window restoration is a very niché marketplace. The best thing to do is start with a Google area search near your home and especially in those areas that are more heavily concentrated in older homes. Next would be to ask around any of the historic districts that are in your area and see who they might have a list for. Hope this helps.