LOL Tracey! I actually have done that. Had some old pillows that matched a couch and loveseat that we no longer have, and that's how it started. Was just going to do one pair. I have since bought inexpensive feather pillows from IKEA and used those as the stuffers, as I like the softer feel and squish. I have a pair of solid olive, a pair of a rust jacquard (not shiny, tho) and a pair that have large orange poppies on them. All the napkins came from Target, but are solid cotton and very nice. The poppy ones are fun for summer, the rust are for the fall, and the green ones go on after the holidays for spring. I also have a set of CHEAP lumbar pillows that I bought at the grocery store, (covered in some horrible fabric where they sew the seams with a serger) and each one of those is going to get a napkin cover in a cool muted paisley. The pillows were $3 each and the napkins were $1 each.

As a professional, I have sewn throw pillows for more than 10 years. Usually they were needlepoint tops, which needed blocking before sewing. If I had to add a zipper (difficult with ANY sort of trim), I'd add at least $10 per pillow, and more if they wanted it in the outside edge seam of the pillow. First question - why do you want a zipper? Do you want to be able to clean the cover? If so, an overlap closure with buttons or velcro in the center back of the pillow is a better solution - less bulk than a zip. Zippers are also damned difficut to put in a seam with trims. Second question - does the pillow need to be reversible? If not, the overlap closure with a zipper is possible. If yes, the the overlap is best done with decorative buttons and button holes. I can't even begin to tell you how many customers wanted their needlepointed pillows with the two or three fancy trims who wanted me to insert a zipper into the seam. I charged at least $10/trim piece plus the $10/zipper. With loopy or ribbon fringe - PLEASE do not rip out the chain stitch holding the loops in place! If you do, I will seriously charge another $10 per pillow, because I have to groom the stuff every single inch to make sure your lovely fringey bits aren't stuck in a seam. With rope type cording with a lip, I still have to unravel 2 inches on each end of the cord, and weave them together, and resew. You will not see the tape, but you don't want a zipper in that seam either. It's bulky and difficult to open and close, and it will eventually snag that lovely trim. There really isn't a way to incorporate a zipper into a seam with these heavy trims, and have it look good, at least not for a reversible pillow. Do a nicely finished overlapped closure with decorative buttons, or velcro, or even a zipper with a deep overlap to cover it. You'll get a better pric if you simply opt for a sewn-up pillow. Just like your sofa or other upholstered furniture, they can be cleaned. All that said, you are getting a good price on those pillows. I'm retired now, but I'd have charged you at least that.

I so understand the thinking. I still tend to do it backwards with standard zippers. It finaly clicked when I first used the make your own zippers (which oddly enough you are making the stops on both ends) With a premade zipper you have a perfect end stop to prevent the zipper head from sliding into a seam or worse. Since this is the more difficult one to self-make USE IT. The zipper pull stop at the top is simply made by putting enough stitches over the teeth to stop the pull from pulling off the zipper. With poly zippers a zigzag at the proper place usually works. You can then chop excess off or just cut the teeth off the tape if you have the tape sticted into your project. This are a couple of links to helpful tips for working with continuous (make your own) zippers. The first does a decent explanation of tab stops and when they might not be necessary. http://www.questoutfitters.com/zipper_tips.htm http://www.marymulari.com/tips/zippers/

Thank you BAC717! The rug is probably my most favorite item in this room and honestly I never would have even purchased it if it were not for the help of my fellow Houzzers. I do not have a good eye for decorating, and these guys have really helped me see the possibilities. We've been in our house for 7 years and this room has always been a struggle. it just seemed gloomy and blah! To me, the room has so much more character now and it's more "me". My 2 posters came in the mail this week. I'm going try to get them framed and hung this weekend. We are still undecided on a paint color. Someone recommended BM Natural cream, which I like; however, because I want to use the same color throughout the entire first level, I have to make sure the wall color works with the kitchen cabinet color (BM Dove White), which has grey undertones. I'll check out the color you recommended also. I have a bunch of paint sample cards but no real contenders yet. Good luck with your room. Let me know when you post and I'll check it out.