Those were the same hooks that I used. When I used them, I first put the adhesive side on my wooden letters and let that sit for sometime to give the adhesive a chance to stick, and then I removed the other side of the adhesive and stuck it to the wall. I put a pillow under the letters on the floor in case they fell. I did have problems with one letter where I did not wait after putting the adhesive to the letter and that letter fell on the pillow. I tried subsequently to get it to work, but it kept falling so I used a new strip, giving it that wait period and since then none of the letters have fallen. Because of this I also needed to remove the strip from the wall which is similar to the Command Hooks which I've used on my fireplace for Christmas stockings. You just need to pull on the bottom tab in a vertical downward direction really slowly so the tab does not break and there was absolutely no wall damage. I will say I'd be a tad nervous about using them on antique plates...esp because the back of the plate is smooth so I'd be particularly careful to give it perhaps even an hour for the strip to adhere to the plate before getting the other side to adhere to the wall and I'd definitely put pillows below for one day as from my experience, if it's going to fall, it will fall in the first hour/day. The other nice thing about these strips, is that you can pull the up the velco and remove the object from the wall, make any slight readjustments, clean, whathaveyou, and reattach the velco strips to one another.

Just as a word of warning, getting a weight rating for a support won't always give you as much info as you need. I'm not sure how technical to get in my explanation, but I'll give it a shot. Think of your counter tops as your hand and forearm. Your elbow is the intersection between the knee-wall and the counter top. Keeping your upper arm down to your side, bend your left arm at the elbow such that your hand and forearm up are parallel to the floor. Now take your right hand and press down on the fingertips of the left hand. Feel how difficult it is to keep your arm level. Now bring your right hand down about half way down your arm and press down the same way. You feel how much easier it is to keep your arm level this time? That difference is known as torque or moment of force. You were applying pretty much the same downward force with your right hand in both locations, but it took a lot less effort to keep it level when you were pushing down closer to the elbow. That's because the rotational force caused by pushing down with your hand is multiplied by the distance from the pivot point (your elbow). It's pretty much the same with your cabinets and supports. Your brackets are providing the upward force to keep the counters where they are. Gravity of course is providing the downward force. Your brackets may be able to support 250 pounds or even 500 pounds. If they're applying all of that upward force near the intersection though, and gravity is pushing the cabinets down along the entire depth of the overhang, the weight of the stone is multiplied by the distance the further it gets out. All this is to say that simply finding a bracket that is rated to support X pounds won't necessarily solve your problem. Unless they're providing that support along the bottom of the counter (away from the intersection), you're going to have to get brackets rated significantly higher than the actual weight of the counter. I hope that makes sense and I haven't just confused things.

Depending on the fixture, the connections might be able to be made inside the fixture without a junction box. Please read the fixture's installation instructions to see if this is permissible. Whether or not a junction box is required, heavy fixtures frequently need support in addition to any support a junction box might provide. The best solution is to mount any fixture directly into wall studs whenever possible. If studs are not in the right place, most vanity fixtures can be mounted using hardware like toggle bolts or mollies. You should find a stud every 16" if the house was built using standard platform framing methods. But if you live in an older house, you might encounter balloon framing or perhaps post-and-beam framing where the dimensions are not at all standard. For holes larger than the cover plate, you need to patch the wall. Depending on the construction of the house, this could as simple as securing a piece of drywall (and a little "mud" and tape), or a much more complex process using lath and plaster.

Yes! I used the wire hooks in my old kitchen, to hang cooking utensils next to the stove (they had to go on the side of a melamine cabinet). The hooks worked great and came off with no trouble when it was time. I just brought home a new batch of them yesterday to hang measuring cups and spoons on the door of my baking supplies cabinet. I saw that they have larger decorative hooks too, and I am contemplating using those to hang towels so I don't have to drill holes through the tile (whenever our tile gets installed...). Some of the big hooks are metallic, either chrome or brushed stainless or ORB-looking (some are made of actual metal too). I am thinking those might look nicer than the white plastic ones. I also probably need to retire the magnetic write-on wipe-off board that I keep on the fridge for jotting down grocery needs (the board is at least 15 years old and has ads for cattle vaccines on it). I already have some picture hanger things that I haven't used so I should probably move the grocery list to inside a cabinet door, maybe a pad with paper I can just tear off and take to the store. I saw the caddies you mentioned when I was getting the hooks at a local hardware store. The ones I saw were about the right size for sponges or scrubbies but without the vent holes at the bottom.