Solution for sagging towel bar in drywall?
linnea56 (zone 5b Chicago)
15 years ago
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Christopher Nelson Wallcovering and Painting
15 years agomaryland_irisman
15 years agoRelated Discussions
Placement for grab bar(s) in tub/shower combo
Comments (19)The photos are great. Thanks much. I've been surfing and have found quite a few sites with grab bars that also look good. Here are a few sites: http://www.greatgrabz.com/grab-bars http://www.pontegiuliousa.com/bagnosicuro/grab-bar-collections.html https://www.plumbingsupply.com/luxury-grab-bars.html And here is the cornershelf/grab bar I am contemplating. Moen makes a much cheaper version, but it has a plastic insert, and I want something that will be more permanent. http://www.wrightstuff.biz/cornershelf.html Here is one take on which type to install: "Never anchor a grab bar into drywall , it will not hold and you could be seriously injured. How to properly install a grab bar is to screw it into the wall studs or to blocking in your walls. If your walls don't have blocking, add it by nailing a piece of plywood into the studs. The plywood should be þ inches thick and 6 to 12 inches wide. A grab bar should have 1-ý" of clearance from the wall. Wall mounted grab bars come in several lengths. Deciding which length to install depends on how the grab bar will be used. For example, if you're putting a main grab bar on the side wall of a bathroom tub enclosure a grab bar at least 24 inches long is best. If you're adding a second grab bar for support on the shower head wall, it should be at least 12 inches long. Horizontal grab bars offer better leverage when you are trying to get out of a bathtub or up and down from a toilet, but a grab bar placed at a 45 degree angle to the toilet or bathtub's rim is better when trying to accommodate people of different heights. Angling your grab bar has an additional advantage. A 24 inch bar installed at a 45 degree angle will exactly span wall studs spaced 16 inches apart, and you can screw into the studs on each end for maximum support. Horizontal grab bars should be located 33 to 36 inches above the finished floor around toilets, and 33 to 36 inches above the floor of the bathtub (7 to 11 inches above the rim) and close enough to the shower head wall to support you when adjusting water temperature."...See MoreHelp with awkward bathroom!
Comments (3)Why didn't they just put the tp holder on the vanity? Who wants to reach way ahead for tp anyways? Ok, so first of all when you say apartment is this a rental or do you own it? If you own it, I would get rid of the towel bar and tp holder. The tile looks like a standard white and if you have to break a few tiles to get rid of them you should be able to replace them pretty easily. Then you can put tp holder on the vanity. Then you could put a towel rack or hooks (my preference) on the drywall above the tile. Above that you could put a shallow depth medicine cab or other shelving unit. Again, if you own it you could sink the cab in between the studs by cutting out the drywall. If it's a rental, you are kind of stuck with whats there. I would use the towel bar for big towels and just ignore the ceramic tp holder and put another one on the vanity. I'd look for shallow depth shelves or cabs to go above the tile behind the door. You can get a neat little thing at places like HD that slide onto the door hinge that will stop the door before it hits the shelves. I would just do open shelves and then have rows of nice baskets to put your ugly stuff in - just mount the shelves high enough that you aren't going to be able to look into the baskets. If you use the ceramic towel rack, then you could get rid of the over the door towel hooks and buy an over the door canvas shoe holder and use that to store things like hairbrushes, razors, shaving cream etc. The one we have is white so it would fit right in with your colour scheme (which I really like BTW). Do you have any room behind the door? or is the door frame almost flush with that wall? Our bathroom is almost identical to yours but we have about 10 inches behind the door. We had a cabinet built for that area and it is amazing how much it holds. Like you we are stuck with the trash between either the vanity and toilet or the tub and toilet. Hope this helps....See MoreBaffled Over Guest Bath
Comments (8)I don't know that it was an intentional message (we didn't want you here in the first place, so take this, and don't come back), but it certainly IS a subliminal message that she doesn't think your comfort is that important. Even IF--best case scenario--she'd forgotten about cleaning that particular bath ahead of time, your asking for towels should have been a jolt that sent her running in to check to see if the boys' outhouse was presentable for guests. It's unconscionable, IMO, to invite guests and not provide basic cleanliness for them. Has anything like this ever happened to us? Afraid so. BIL invited us to stay at a resort while we were on vacation. He had an apt. with a friend. We got there, and there were no sheets on the bed. Apparently, he and his friends didn't use them. At all. Ever. YUCK!!!! and we had our small daughter with us. I ran right out and bought a set of sheets (which I took with us when we left!). Now, we didn't expect to find the summer place of a bunch of 20-something guys to be immaculate, but sheets? Well, we certainly never stayed with him again--just not my cup of tea. And I can assure you, that I definitely WOULD have cleaned that bathroom--no way I'd have used it as you describe. Or I'd have made some excuse to use the grown-up bathroom. Too bad if someone were embarrassed--they should be to invite guests into something like that. You have to decide just how important this is to you. It doesn't sound as if they were all that welcoming--they had you sleeping on the floor, as well as not bothering to clean the bathroom before your visit (I could live with the patched plaster, but not the mold, lack of soap, etc). Me? I'd definitely stay in a hotel from here on in--when I travel, I prefer to be comfortable, and I don't really enjoy feeling like I'm imposing on someone. When we visit family now, we like the freedom to come and go that a hotel room provides....See MoreReinforcing floor...
Comments (58)Brickeye, 10 years ago I successfully took the bounce of my 14x27 kitchen/dining room using the 1/8" x 1.5" x 12' steel plates method, fastened to the bottom of the floor joists. The floor actually had up to a 3/4" dip running along the center and would have ruined the ceramic floor I was planning to install. I searched long hours trying to find a solution that did not involve sistering floor joists as I had installed the plumbing & electrical in the center of the joists when building. Trying to add sister joists over the heating ducts is problematic since these need to be the same length as the originals. I used 16d galvanized nails and drilled the off-center holes 8" apart. I also pre-drilled the nail holes into the joists and hammered each one home before pre-drilling and nailing the next one (note: I pre-drilled the steel before installing for ease and template). The floor ended up rock solid with no bounce. I am now doing the same fix on my 18 month old house where the GC did not install any bridging (warp) and the bounce is significant when people walk from room to room. I have 30+ some joists to shore up and expect the same results as 10 years ago....See Morebrickeyee
15 years agomulchmamma
15 years agowestern_pa_luann
15 years agolinnea56 (zone 5b Chicago)
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15 years agobrickeyee
15 years agokudzu9
15 years agolinnea56 (zone 5b Chicago)
15 years agokudzu9
15 years agolinnea56 (zone 5b Chicago)
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15 years ago
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