"Bumping out the actual cabinet is not an option because this will be a new sink installed in old cabinetry." Were you told this could not be done? I only ask to let you know we are using our old cabinets, but replacing sink with a new undermount and installing granite counters. My carpenters were here Monday to pull my sink base cabinet forward 3 inches. They just unscrewed it from the wall, from the cabinet on the side and the dishwasher on the other side. Then they pulled it forward and installed blocks behind it to the wall for the granite support. I don't know the dimensions of our new sink, I just told the granite fabricator I wanted a 60/40 SS sink. I asked him where the sink would be and he said standard installation from the front edge and we would have no problem having the new faucet installed along with two soap dispensers. Only other work my carpenters did was to extend the plumbing lines from the wall because they were too short for the new depth. On a side note, we only bumped out our sink base because I like the look of it. But I hope the added bonus is having plenty of room to clean behind the faucet. Let me know if you want any other details or want me to go take pictures.

Pardon the massiveness (yes I made up that word) :oP of this silly hood but it had to cover a big range: I believe we're 34" off the surface, but since it's just recently been all set up, I'll go ahead and do a measurement for sure and post it this evening. We spent a lot of time on the phone with vent a hood when we had this rebuilt (we ordered a standard 1200 cfm and then took the guts out of the box and had the box rebuilt by a local stainless steel fabricator). We made sure that the power was going to be sufficient and wanted to increase capture space front to back as well as side to side. We couldn't go with a standard US measurement on a hood due to space issues and conversion from the french range size. It's mounted to both the wall and hung from heavy chains wrapped around the beams in the ceiling. Three heavy guys did pull ups from it :) It's not coming down. It was a chore though to see it hung well. It vents out the back through a wall, but it was far too heavy even in it's metal stage to use that as the only support. Then once we applied the marine plywood, plaster, trim and granite detail..well she's a heavy girl :) One thing I did (I hope it shows here...if not I'll take another photo) is to bump out the counter to meet the front of the stove. I did that to avoid the obvious "hip meets square edge" of the stove, and it also serves to keep you from losing an eye on the hood if you're tall enough :) Actually here's a pic that shows the bump out better. It flows so well this way:

Thanks for the comments, folks. So I'll get a structural engineer to check on the integrity of the slab. Any other thoughts or advice? Anyone done this before? Other than the cost in Seattle, is this a reasonable project? What's involved if the slab won't cut it?

Like the bump out cabinet but if another cabinet is not in your budget, then ... Between the rectangle "post" with sloped top and the window there is an angled wall? Ignore that angled wall. It has an outlet so that means there is wiring behind it. Nope to adding anything to it. Also, you don't want to add brick or anything else to the space that would only serve to emphasize it ... but you could utilize the forward flat part of it. The odd flat front "pillar" over the pipe will have framing on each side to which you can add a nail or screw without damaging the plumbing pipe. Measure from the bottom of that top slope/angle to the bottom of the overhead cabinet. That is the size -- length/width -- finished wood board you want, with the board's back angled top to make the top of the board fit snugly against that top angle of the "pillar". To that finished board, you can attach something useful (that will not gouge you in the eye). The space might not be deep enough to have a wide enough shelf on which you could set mugs or cream/sugar items on it (except above head bump height) but you could probably add other useful features that you could add to your board BEFORE hanging your board. Mail pockets: https://www.homedepot.com/pep/Home-Basics-3-Shelf-6-in-x-20-in-Bamboo-Letter-Rack-LR01068/207051663?mtc=Shopping-BA-F_HDH-G-D59-59_35_WALL_DECOR-Multi-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-Wall_Shelf&cm_mmc=Shopping-BA-F_HDH-G-D59-59_35_WALL_DECOR-Multi-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-Wall_Shelf-71700000055588482-58700005223539322-92700046386733227&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIwqKtqbu06QIVA4TICh3bOgutEAQYByABEgIGt_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds and/or cork board or chalk board: https://www.wayfair.com/furniture/pdp/rosalind-wheeler-domaine-decorative-wood-shutter-home-wall-mail-organizer-with-chalkboard-w001317943.html and/or shallow spice & S&P shelf/shelves: https://www.amazon.com/Rev-Shelf-4ASR-15-Cabinet-Adjustable/dp/B00097BVCA/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=Rev-A-Shelf+4ASR&qid=1551935362&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmrnull&linkCode=sl1&tag=woodaccess-20&linkId=33ac764c309f2c8f0b6370db37ddf1cc&language=en_US Hanging hooks for mugs or trivet(s): https://www.target.com/p/essick-hook-rack-oil-rubbed-bronze-threshold-8482/-/A-11345275?ref=tgt_adv_XS000000&AFID=google_pla_df&fndsrc=tgtao&CPNG=PLA_Home%2BImprovement%2BShopping&adgroup=SC_Home%2BImprovement&LID=700000001170770pgs&network=g&device=c&location=9011010&ds_rl=1246978&ds_rl=1248099&ds_rl=1247068&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIvaKQjL206QIVGLbICh3U5g8zEAQYASABEgISbfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds https://www.garrettwade.com/hand-forged-iron-wall-hooks.html?SCID=W4011000&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIw6jfsb206QIVBniGCh3kmwp3EAQYBSABEgLMOfD_BwE Kitchen / dining / garden related art: With the right hangers, light weight kitchen art might be added to the board or the wall below the board on the wall beside the overhead cabinets: https://www.google.com/search?source=univ&tbm=isch&q=kitchen+art&client=firefox-b-1-d&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjVo8vrvbTpAhWcgnIEHeeBAKgQ7Al6BAgCEE0&biw=1324&bih=648 Just don't put anything on your board that will end up being in your way. Prepare your board with the features you want BEFORE you hang it. Use screws instead of nails to hang your board and you can change out your board as you decide what proves most useful and what you find to be useless.