bumped out rangetop - bump out hood?

15 years ago

We are installing a Wolf 4 burner w/ grill this week and are trying to decide whether or not to bump it out 3 inches.

We want to do it for these reasons:

1. It looks good (we had the cabinet sides finished so that we would have this choice).

2. There is room for a larger pot on the back burner.

3. I think we will get better ventilation if we keep the hood on the low side (32-33") and bumping out the rangetop will make bumping our heads less likely!

In a previous thread, breezy2 recommended bumping out the hood along with the rangetop... Here's my question:

Do you think that the lower height of the hood will compensate for the lack of alignment, if we don't bump out the hood? We will have a fairly powerful blower - Wolf pro style 1100cfm remote.

(I also posted this on the Appliance Forum, but then thought this might be the better place for this - our installation is in progress!)

Thank you !

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Comments (5)

igloochic
15 years ago
The most important piece of venting a stove is that you get coverage for the burners. All of the burners :) Steam, grease and other cooking stuff does not always fly out the back side of the pot :) In particular you have a grill, so coverage is a big deal there if you actually plan on grilling ever. I wouldn't even make it a second thought, I'd bump it out at least the same as you are your stove so all burners are covered. I'd also do a bit larger hood (at least 3" on each side) to make sure I had excellent coverage.
helenjoan
Original Author
15 years ago
Thank you igloochic. I did get the larger hood (42") - and I see what you mean - so I will bump it out. Neither our KD or appliance salesman seemed to think it was that important, but i'm glad i asked. Any input on how high off the counter is also appreciated... in my duplicate post in the Appliance forum, weissman suggested 30"
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We bumped out a 24" deep 48" wolf hood. We did this to insure the hood covered the front burners. We did not want the 27" deep wolf hood because I did not like the convoluted air flow of that model created by the placement of the warming lamps, which we also did not want. Also the baffles in the 27" were much more awkward to remove for cleaning. Not sure what your husband has against 27" deep hoods. We liked the style and fit and finish of the Wolf hood more than just about any other brand, but I did not like the mechanics. If wolf made a version of the 27" with baffles in the rear we probably would have gone that direction and not bothered with the bump out. But with the bump out, you end up in effect with a 27" deep hood. Depending on what you are putting under the hood, a 24" with no bump out may be fine. "Pro" ranges are deeper than conventional ranges so need a little more depth. If you are not using a pro style range, a 24" hood may be fine. To bump the unit out, the GC build a frame of 2x6s that matches the outline of the back of the hood. He used a double layer, thus pushing the mounting plane out 3.5" from the back wall. Hood was mounted to this box. We had planned a stainless back splash behind the range anyway, so we had the sheetmetal guy make a long strip of stainless to wrap the edges of the box, so at a glance, it looks like the hood is stainless to the wall. This would probably work fine even if you are not using a stainless back splash. Or maybe you could finish the 2x6 frame in some other material, like wall board or good quality wood. Not sure how tile would look. Note this works with a hood that has a flat rear mounting surface. Some of the curvy euro-style hoods may not support this kind of mounting. At any rate, works well. Hood covers the front burners nicely, which is where the heavy duty cooking is done,and it looks fine.
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I also bumped the rangetop cabinet out 3", but went with a 24" range hood depth. I think it will be fine, as the burners and grill are located about 2 1/2" from the front edge of the rangetop. So I think it depends on the location of your actual burners. All my burners are same power, but if they were not, I would not want both of my power burners on the back, as it would be inconvenient for stir frying or making a roux. However, if you are bumped out 4" and the front of your front burner is more than 24" out, I would definitely go with a 27" depth. Just my @.02
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"We have eventually come up with the idea of removing the bump-out and making the exterior wall straight, which means we could extend that wall of cabinets about 7 extra feet, almost doubling the space for counters, cabinets, and appliance" If you do that, install windows at counter-height, not above the counter (or below it). Keep in mind that you do need some wall space for tall appliances such as: Refrigerator Range/Cooktop + Hood Wall ovens (if you have them) Pantry - although a built-in/drywalled pantry is much more functional than pantry cabinets - but built-ins need wall space as well. So, don't eliminate all walls! You might consider a smaller window if you redo the bumpout to add wall space to the Kitchen. It might cheaper to just replace the windows in the bumpout so the bumpout is usable - maybe eliminate the side windows so you could put the refrigerator in the bumpout - it would put the refrigerator closer to the DR. . (Just brainstorming right now!)
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felixnot
15 years ago
30" is usually the minimum recommended height. You may want 36 or higher, depending on your cfm.

Also, the reason why they make vent hoods 27 inches deep is so you don't have to bump them out, (alternatively most companies also make 24" depth).

If you are bumping out be very careful about how you mount the hood, and look at the warrantee information regarding the recommendations as to the type of material you can mount adjacent to the hood.
ccoombs1
15 years ago
My cooktop is bumped out 3 inches, so I had the top cabinet made 15" deep instead of 12". I will install the hood at the front edge of the cabinet so it will still be centered over the cooktop. I am getting a 3" wide filler strip made of stainless steel to go at the back of the hood where it would normally be touching the wall. This will prevent gunk that was supposed to go up the hood from getting behind the hood instead. This strip will be attached to the back bottom edge of the hood and to the wall to seal that void up completely.
igloochic
15 years ago
Pardon the massiveness (yes I made up that word) :oP of this silly hood but it had to cover a big range:

I believe we're 34" off the surface, but since it's just recently been all set up, I'll go ahead and do a measurement for sure and post it this evening.

We spent a lot of time on the phone with vent a hood when we had this rebuilt (we ordered a standard 1200 cfm and then took the guts out of the box and had the box rebuilt by a local stainless steel fabricator). We made sure that the power was going to be sufficient and wanted to increase capture space front to back as well as side to side. We couldn't go with a standard US measurement on a hood due to space issues and conversion from the french range size.

It's mounted to both the wall and hung from heavy chains wrapped around the beams in the ceiling. Three heavy guys did pull ups from it :) It's not coming down. It was a chore though to see it hung well. It vents out the back through a wall, but it was far too heavy even in it's metal stage to use that as the only support. Then once we applied the marine plywood, plaster, trim and granite detail..well she's a heavy girl :)

One thing I did (I hope it shows here...if not I'll take another photo) is to bump out the counter to meet the front of the stove. I did that to avoid the obvious "hip meets square edge" of the stove, and it also serves to keep you from losing an eye on the hood if you're tall enough :)

Actually here's a pic that shows the bump out better. It flows so well this way:

bumped out rangetop - bump out hood?

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igloochic

helenjoan
Original Author

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bumped out rangetop - bump out hood?

Comments (5)

igloochic

helenjoanOriginal Author

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igloochic

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helenjoan
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