I have Yorktowne Avondale cabinets that are 13 years old, but in great shape. My vanity is 90" long and has a 30" cabinet w/double doors on each end and just a desk type of drawer in the middle w/ an opening underneath for a vanity chair that I will never own. I tried to get a third cabinet to slide in the middle but was advised that Yorktowne had since changed the height of the toe kick and it wouldn't line up. In addition, there is now tile around the cabinets, but not under them, and there is tile under the drawer area, so it could never line up, or even fit a standard base cabinet. I have played with the idea of mounting a WALL cabinet (no toe kick) under the drawer by using a one inch filler and building a faux toe kick base out of lumber and covering all the toe kick w/molding. The wall cabinet would sort of sit on the base and attach to the sides of the exisitng cabinets. With a one inch filler it should all line up across the bottom of the face frames. I wondered about the distance from the bottom of the face frame to the bottom of the door, and whether that will match on the wall cabinet and existing cabinet. Also deciding between 12" depth($314) and 21" depth ($414) For $250 I can get just the doors and face frame, and not have a "real" cabinet at all, just sort of like doors leading to an empty space. I would glue/nail them to the exisitng cabinets(husband or brother could figure it out!) I mainly want to fill the useless space because it is not attractive. I have cleaning supplies hidden in a basket in the space now. Just got new granite counter last week. Love it! (Then needed new knobs, new bathrugs, new towel, new facuet....the granite just starts the snowball rolling!) Any thoughts. I'd post photos if I new how! Anywhere else I should post this?

Any lumber yard will sell an exterior frame. HD carries them in wood and the plastic composites. Ron

You might be money ahead to remove the old doors/jambs/casings yourself and have a pro install the pre-hungs. If you have experience hanging pre-hungs, then I stand corrected, but if not, leave it to a pro as even pre-hungs have variables concerning problems with the openings that you can run into that a pro knows how to deal with. They have all the tools and are in and out efficiently. If you aren't experienced at trim work, you might have them case them out as well. Seek out a reputable finish carpenter and get referrals from suppliers, door outfits, folks you know who have hired one in the past, etc.

In my experience, it is quite difficult to impossible to have everything pre-machined by the lumberyard (especially the hinge mortises, which should "hit" within less than 1/32" to fit properly), and expect it to come-out right and ready to "throw into the hole". My advice would be to order the jamb stock, fit it in, and do the lockset drilling and hinge mortising in-place to assure accuracy. Such field prep and hanging might be done by a very experienced and capable homeowner; otherwise you may wish to call on a pro. The tolerances for properly installing and prepping a jamb would be less than 1/16". Mason Here is a link that might be useful: Ask Mason