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replacing an exterior wooden window sill

15 years ago

I need to replace a rotted custom made exterior wooden window sill. I have searched numerous web sites to help me do this but find them difficult to follow ,especially for a novice like me. Some even state that the interior window sill and trim must be removed also which seems unnecessary to me, particularly since the interior face of the trim is flush with the plaster and would cause untold damage to the plaster. This type of interior trim construction was popular in the colonial era. If anyone has any references which would clearly help me accomplish this window sill replacement, I would be most greatful. Pictures would be most helpful.

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Comments (2)

mightyanvil
14 years ago
In a traditional window the sill should be attached between the lower parts of the jambs (the jambs should support the window). The lower horizontal interior trim ("stool" and "apron") should be attached to the sill and a bit of the jambs as well as to the interior wall. If the damage is extensive I would think it would be best to remove the entire window unless the rot is only in one area of the sill and that area can be cut out and patched or reinforced without disturbing the rest of the assembly.

You should consider a wood restoration system like Abatron sells but there are many others.

Here is a link that might be useful: wood repair materials
homebound
14 years ago
Epoxy wood filler may be your best bet. How extensive is the damage? Can you post some pics?
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It is possible to cover all of the window trim and sill with roll-form aluminum but covering just the sill invites trapping of water and further deterioration. Abatron is a good source for epoxy repair. Here is a link that might be useful: Abatron
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FWIW, we had a tub w/shower once that had epoxy paint over plaste r & lathwall that held up surprisingly well over a period of 5 or 6 yrs. It did require monitoring of the paint and caulk and touching these up at the first sign of trouble. Drying surfaces with a towel and keeping room ventilated helped too I'm sure. The vertical surfaces (walls) were fine, it was where vertical wall met horizontal tub flange where dampness would collect and cause trouble. Similarly you have that flat sill that could cause a problem, even with tile on top. Is there anyway you could replace the sill with something slanted (or add a slanted layer on top) that would drain water away from that joint - like an exterior window sill does. Use Abatron (epoxy wood repair) to fix the broken wood. Someone else will have to advise re paint, there may be something better than epoxy
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