Thanks Sankaty! However...this IS a pretty common way to deal with "messy-yet-need-to-keep-accessible" rooms! * What is the measurement from your floor to the bottom of the ceiling-joists? * Would losing a few inches hit any door-swing arcs? * Our lower-level (bi-level home) is a full 8' wall, so losing 4-5" was hardly noticeable. * I also installed 2 flourescent light troffer-bays instead of panels. I wanted lotsa light in there! The room is about 10' x 11'. * I also studded-out a wall in front of the sump-pit/water-heater/furnace space, and installed bi-fold doors. Stained-'em to match rest of the trim, & applied 3 coats of ACE's Satin Oil-base Polyurethane. * I'll get a pic here soon... Faron

@littlesmokie: Thanks for your thoughts and ideas and the link to the great blog! They were all helpful! Do I love the green accent? I like them, but I'm not sure if I love them.... @ :Having green in my kitchen was my sister's idea, and it took a little time to be okay with the thought until I saw the glass green tile. Still, I've had reservations. Do I wear green? Not so much. FYI, if it says anything, I have dark espresso hardwood floors; Coir color walls in living room; bathrooms with ivory travertine floors and walls and espresso shaker style cabinets and caesarstone countertops (Behr brand, I think; khaki/tan with a green tone); and pottery barn looking bedrooms for the kids and my husband and me. ~ Below are some better photos. You should be able to click on them now to enlarge them. https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/CZJqP94oax5I9afOlszJlA?feat=directlink https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/oR2_YYrhKhMhRbuRRCQ_9g?feat=directlink You can see the sage, beige and grayish tones. In the lower photo, you will see the a sample of the caesarstone jerusalem sand, the mini light green subway tile accent I was thinking about using (third one from the bottom) and the crisp white 3 x 6 subway tile sample (third from the bottom...originally, I was going to use barely beige). Do the clearer photos change your thoughts about our design which includes white cabinets and stainless steel appliances? Or, do you think I should go with the classic white look, maybe with all white subway tiles? I just want my kitchen to be beautiful, clean and crisp, yet with some warmth, and be worth the money spent. I've always dreamt of a white kitchen like this or even a more classic white cabinet kitchen (I'm sure you've all seen them or even have one like them): http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_pCtYBqw7SEE/SSInWgWSbFI/AAAAAAAAAaA/RJjsK1XwD58/s1600-h/white+kitchen+old1.jpg If I decide to use white glazed subway tiles for the backsplash, what size of tiles should I use? Also, if going with the classic kitchen white theme, I've always liked the calcutta marble countertop look, but would prefer to use a granite or caesarstone. Have any ideas, or would something similar in color match with the floor tiles that I have? Any thoughts or ideas would appreciated! I need to figure all this out this week! With a busy schedule with 3 young kids and a hubby who wants the kitchen finished with the next couple of weeks, I'm pressed for time! Yikes! :) Hope you all had a great weekend!

Waynette, Home Depot will be initiating such a data storage system in a few weeks. It always has had the option to store your data if you requested it, however, in the near future, all sales will be recorded by your phone number. I have no problems with BM products other then there high prices. During my 4 decades of contracting, BM was my primary paint company. BM has high prices, as does SW, but at least BM gets high ratings from the national rating companies, something that SW does not always. I always consul those contemplating having work done, to ask the contractor to state exactly which paint he intends to use. DO NOT simply accept SW or BM, but ask specifically what label he intends to use. All the major manufacturers make really good paint, but they also make that infamous "contractor grade" stuff that so many new homes get stuck with. THEN CALL THE PAINT STORE and ask where on the quality scale his paint stands. If he is not using top of the line paint, find another painter. He is looking out for his bottom line, not the quality of your paint job! AT least as far as residential work goes, the price of the paint is only a few percentage points of the total bill. You are paying for labor. Hopefully, honest, quality labor. During my contracting years, I was selling a complete service. The cost of the paint and getting it to your house was part of my service and included in the bid.. Often, a BM color fan would be left with the customer for them to choose colors in advance, or at least get an idea of what they might want to use. Finally, be wary of any painter who asks for money up front. If he doesn't have good credit standing down at the paint store, he is living close to the edge. NEVER make final payment until you are completely satisfied.

I am no designer but will say that the hardest color or non color to pick out is white. Be smart and hire a designer or even a paint store rep to come and look at your space. The couple hundred it will cost will save you 10x's that if you get it wrong. We buy and sell homes and will tell you that w put the same white in different houses and you would swear it is not the same color. Everything from sun to surroundings effect white. Be smart hire a pro. Once they start talking warm and cold this you will see how much is involved.