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How to reduce header height? LVLs, sizing?

15 years ago

We are rebuilding an exterior wall that is currently 2x4 construction. We're widening the wall to 2 x 6 so we can insulate it better.

We're re-using the Anderson casement windows when we rebuild (with extension jambs). Longest span is aprox 9'6". We'd like to raise the windows up as high as possible without re-building the roof. Current header is (2) 2x10s.

It looks like two 1.75 x 7.25 LVLs would be plenty, but we'd still need to build that out to 5.5 inches, so I wondered if we could use three (3) pieces of 2x lumber and get the same strength. Like (3) 2x8s perhaps?

Does anyone have tables to see if (3) 2x8 would carry the same load as (2) 2x10?

Or have any other suggestions? (Other than, "hire a structural engineer" which I would clearly do if I won the lottery.) We can be safe and put the (2) 2x10s back, but I would REALLY like to raise those windows a bit!

Thanks!!

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Comments (2)

mightyanvil
15 years ago
I checked more carefully and assuming the existing header is not over-designed (a big assumption) three 2x8's will carry the same design load but the deflection will be right on the allowable limit of L/360 instead of at L/500 for the 2x10's. Two 7.25 LVL's will be very similar to the 2x8's if you use an E value of 1.8. If you use an E value of 2.0 the double LVL's will have a deflection limit of L/400.

No one can say if the existing header was sized correctly without knowing the loading. You should check the bottom of the existing header to see if it has sagged.

A way to get the header even smaller is to use a Better Header steel flitch plate.

Here is a link that might be useful: Better Header
Stacey Collins
Original Author
15 years ago
Oh, thank you so much for your time, mightyanvil. I really appreciate it.

We'll check the 2x10s and see if they've sagged. Do we just use a level to do so? I'm removing all the interior wall paneling today so we'll be able to see all.

I've sent an iquiry to Better Header as well, thanks for the tip.

Stacey
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The double 2x10's can carry about 53 psf of snow load on the roof plus a 10 psf dead load for the structure with a deflection of only .185 in. (L/600) If the snow load of 53 psf is acceptable in your area and there is no opportunity for snow to drift against an adjacent higher structure then the 2x10's are adequate. Three 2x8's will carry the same load with a deflection of .257 (L/444) so you would only have to be careful to allow for an additional 1/8" of deflection above the head of the door. A deflection of L/360 is allowed by most building codes so you only need to determine if the 53 psf live load meets the regional snow load code requirement or if there is a possibility for drifting snow. Any local inspector or design professional can advise you about snow loading but since everyone in Maine is legally allowed to design the structure of a house, I would ask more than one person.
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The suggestion that an LVL beam would deflect less than a steel beam for a given depth is not true. Steel has a Modulus of Elasticity 15 times that of Laminated Veneer Lumber so in the real world a built up LVL beam would usually have to be about 50% taller than a steel beam to meet the minimum deflection requirement. You need someone more qualified (or honest) to design this structure. If cost is not the limiting issue the shortest height beam would be steel (probably only 8" tall) and putting it above the ceiling should hide it completely. I recently put a 15 ft. beam above a ceiling supporting a floor and a roof ridge beam above and it required an W8x21 (8" tall, 21 plf) steel beam. Where I live an LVL or steel beam would have to be stamped by an engineer since such elements are not covered by prescriptive building codes.
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I wanted to say a couple of things, all of them very generic. You are indicating that your ceilings are 8 feet and that your header sticks down another foot, so a 12" header. A 12" header is a pretty standard size particularly when there is a second story above it. By standard I mean I'm not surprised to hear it's that large. It's true that switching away from a standard wood beam to a gluelam would make the header small but not substantially so. You might gain an inch or so. You might need to switch up to a steel beam in order to get a 4" difference and a steel beam is an entirely different chicken. It will cost much more and usually needs to be okayed by an engineer before placement. I wanted to point out that a blind header is necessarily more expensive than a standard header install. I can't tell you how MUCH more but definitely expect additional money to be involved. Most headers hang down way further than expected. Good luck!
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Fur out 3/4" for Romex, probably bad detail at flanking walls though if not continued. Or exposed raceway. Although I'm not quite sure how you fit a beam for an 8' long window between 7.5' and 6.75' or your kitchen layout, but maybe, with such a low ceiling height maybe a typical sconce over the sink is not the right fixture. Maybe a recessed can (cans along the 8' window) would be better.
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