I am supporting my 1 1/2 story 1906 house with a scaffold of LVLs and columns from the ground up to the 2x4 rafters. House footprint is 24x28'. The front room is 12 x24, joists running in the 24' direction (east west), the gable end wall is the 24' length (north). All joists and rafters run east west and all LVLs perpendicular (north south). The upstairs joists are 14' and 10' long above this room (a little longer because they lap). I've added 12' long double 9 1/2" LVLs 5 feet in from each side wall directly under the kneewalls/joists that carry some of the roof load above. Where the second floor joists lap I removed an old twisted timber (added in 1950s to replace a wall) and replaced it with a double 9 1/2" LVL. All LVLs supported in beam pockets and columns down thru walls. I jacked the floor above when putting in the LVLs and removed most of the sag from 100 years of no support. LVLs die on appropriately sized headers where needed above windows. A neighbor, who is a residential engineer, ran the numbers. I do have two sets of double 9 1/2" LVLs upstairs above the collar ties carrying some of the roof load down through the end walls and stairwell walls that bisect the house in the 28 foot (east/west) direction so all beams are sized throughout the house with relation to each other, house load, snow load etc. Since the original ceilings are 9' tall I will drop them to the bottom of the LVL--8'. There is a 2x4 plate on top of the LVLs to take up the distance of the plate at the top of the wall. I stripped the walls, so the LVLs end within the walls with new studs/beam pockets carrying the loads down to the foundation. All LVLs are glued and timberloc screwed or nailed together. You'll only pay a little more to oversize the beams though it is wise to get a professional assessment. The engineers with the computer programs can run the numbers very quickly.

Husband and I finished an 2 story 18 x 24 addition about 4 years ago. Even with subbing out some of the work, it was of course, more money and more work than we anticipated. Same old story to anyone who has ever... I know husband can do this with help from my 2 adult, still living at home, mooching sons LOL but - hubby has a bad back and is 62 so no spring chicken. Plus we are finally talking to each other after 4 years! Can't get anyone else to call me for a quote. Even with referrals these guys either don't call back or are no shows. Willing to do some demo to save time and money. All I have read from various Garden Web articles is that it is not a HUGE project (I only have about a 13' span and I have architectural specs) so I don't understand why somebody wouldn't want to come in for a quick buck. Hate doing it but I guess I will start calling names from ads in our local paper to people I don't know or have any referrals.

Can your medicine cabinet be recessed at all? If you are down to the studs, now is the time to be framing out the recess for the cabinet, cut the studs box it out with header. You say the vanity has a side wall on the left side. Open up that wall, create more storage there with an additional, preferably recessed, medicine cabinet. Think about the projection of the lighting fixture, particularly if you go with over the mirror mount. You want to try to get the light coming out beyond the projection of the cabinet, this avoid the cabinet creating a shadow. Projection is a factor, as is the distance above the mirror you can install, the shape of the light, the directionality of the light, etc. With a 48" vanity I think a 30 - 36" mirror with a sconce on both sides and a second side wall cabinet would be great.

I have a similar problem with a kitchen beam, only mine involves spanning the stem wall and existing pier since we can’t drill a new pier that was specified. I had to hire a new structural engineer. My architect isn’t a pain in the ass, but he doesn’t do the structural work (specific license and insurance for engineering). In my case, the new engineer was able to write a permit addendum, which is common with remodels since surprises happen. You probably don’t need a new architect, just an engineer. In my neck of the woods, that beam hangs too low to pass code, so it will have to be re-engineered. Also, if they replace the beam with steel, keep in mind that it’s more costly to install and work with than glue lam or other engineered wood beams. Also, it has to be custom fabricated and shipped, likely increasing the time you have to wait for it. A good structural engineer will come out to the site, take plenty of measurements and photos and notes, take copies of your existing plans and calcs and charge you just for the work that needs to be redone. Do not work with an engineer who refuses to come out or that tells a contractor to submit what they want and they’ll draw it. Good luck.