Help - how do you mockup the backsplash when not on mesh

16 years ago

Following the great advice on the forum I looked at both the Enchantment and the Copper Blend from Oceanside Tiles. I am deciding between those two patterns, but in the 1X2 offset joint pattern (custom). So, I ordered a sheet of the Oceanside glass tiles (was mistakenly told by the salesperson we could only order the whole sheet if we wanted a "sample"). Anyway, the way the custom sheets are delivered - it isn't on mesh, there is paper on the front of the design keeping it in place and to install it you put the exposed side to the wall/thinset then take off the paper.

So basically, I can only see the back of my tiles (which you can imagine how I freaked out thinking I had the wrong tiles at first) and if I take the paper off - the pattern will come apart.

How would you suggest I mock up the tile pattern? Do I need to go to get thinset and wallboard? Could I just use glue and cardboard? Since these are glass tiles, will one methods not really give me the idea of what it would like like on the wall versus another?

Thanks for any help you can give me. I want to get to the point I can create a mockup - and decide between the two color blends and make sure this is really the backsplash for me.

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Comments (5)

talley_sue_nyc
16 years ago
What if you put a sheet of contact paper on the *back* of that block of tile, and rub it so it sticks well. Then peel the paper off the front.

Then, to create more than one sheet, photocopy the tiles on a color copier at Kinko's on 11x17 paper?

or, if all you're worried about is how to space them, and not what they'll look like aesthetically, just make a photocopy of the back side.
muscat
16 years ago
I wonder if you can get some of that mesh stuff that is usually on the backs of tiles, use the right kind of glue to put the tiles on the mesh, then pull off the paper, and the tiles will be both visible and ready to install.

All my 2x2 and 4x2 tiles came on mesh and I had to tear them all off since I was placing them individually. I would have happily given you all my mesh!!! :)
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lmao. what Jan said! Although, I had to help out my guys who did my herringbone wood floor. it's the starting point where everyone gets messed up. after that, it's simple. Look up how to properly start a herringbone layout and read it. you need to use a speed square at the end of your tile in order to get the proper middle starting point. much easier to illustrate than trying to write it out here. This is how I showed my guys how to start it. see the blue tape w/the two lines? you have to start on the middle after you mark your corner. that's the only way you will get perfect even cuts on both ends. this is how most do it, and it's not correct IF you want perfectly symmetrical left/right borders. All he's done is set the corner of the tile on the line. doing it like this will leave you w/one side smaller than the other: see how the sides of the window don't match? this is what you don't want. your tile guy should be doing a dry layout in order to determine where he starts so he doesn't get this look or these tiny triangles. Again,,,see how the ends don't match below? the right has longer tiles than the left edge. that's because of the way he started his first tile. And don't do these vertical tiles for your edging. get proper bullnose tiles, pencil liner or a Schluter edge. This is a layout board of my herringbone for my shower. took a few hours in order to get this almost perfect. since this was an odd size, and the tiles were even at 3x12, it couldn't be perfect. the right bottom corner triangle is the only portion that doesn't match. luckily, it's not readily visible! Even the subway tiles are perfectly matched. this layout took hours to get exact, even around the niche. 2x6your 3x9 will be 1/3 larger. 3x9 is a good size for a backsplash. this is a regular 3x6. again, a 3x9 will give you 1/3 longer.
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meaning, it's not his fault the tiles were glued on the mesh incorrectly. everyone that commented up top said what a horrible job he did installing them because they were crooked. that's why I said, "Hang on". I was letting everyone know that these sheets of mosaics often come crooked. that's what I meant by not his fault. and for the fourth damn time, yes, the installer should have done a few of them by hand. However, should he have taken each and every tile off the sheet and done them one by one??? uh, no. That's the meaning of, "not his fault". Do you actually expect him to do that? Who is in charge of this project? Why didn't they pay attention to how screwed up the tiles were on the sheet? why didn't that person know enough to catch it, advise the homeowner or give instructions to the installer to do what needed to be done?? You're faulting the wrong person. OP hired a company to do the entire kitchen. they are using one of their 'tile guys' on staff. Sometimes you luck out and get someone who's good. Most times you get someone who doesn't speak English and only installs what they're given, without thinking outside the box. they just figure, "this is what boss gave me to put up, i put it up. not my fault if they were crooked". OP said this was a 25K job. how much of that went to the tile install, I do not know. I also think, overall, it's a decent job. there are a few tiles that are off and should be fixed, but if that's all there is, then I wouldn't do a tear out. The way everyone was acting about his install was a bit much. We've all seen horrible tile jobs on here and this is not one of them.
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amberley
16 years ago
I have Oceanside installed in my shower and on my tub deck, and it is really beautiful. We did the tub deck install ourselves, and had to go thorugh several tile contractors to get them to install it correctly.

I would suggest that if you really want to get a good idea of what they will really look like, to buy the ***white*** mortar (look at Oceanside's website for the type- we used Custom Building Products) and then follow the installation instructions that they have on the site.

It is VERY important that you use white, and that every piece of teh tile is covered with the mortar, or you will see through it. Then just put it on a piece of ply or gyp and hold it up to your backsplash area. You might even want to grout it as well, as the grout really changes the look (especially with the small tiles).

I highly recommend Oceanside, and if you have any questions, I found that every time I called (which was at least 6 times) that they were extremely helpful.

Good luck!!
minac
Original Author
16 years ago
Amberly - what were the tile contractors doing why the tile was not installed correctly? I have no experience with glass tiles so I want to make sure I am getting a contractor that knows what he/she is doing both in terms of questions ahead of time and making sure it looks right when they are on-site working.

Also, did you use the Megaflex, MegaLite, or Premium plus of the Custom Building product.

I am tempted to try to do the sample myself with gyp and thinset just so I know what to expect. This will be an expensive undertaking so I don't want to say - oh that isn't quite what we wanted after it is ordered and up on the wall. On the other hand - I can see putting off the project even longer as I have the mini project to put the sample together.
amberley
16 years ago
minac-

You want an installer that is WELL vered in installing glass tiles. Ask for references, and call them to see if you can actually see the tile job. Make sure that they are willing to listen to you about which products to use. Make sure that they are well versed in the product. they probably should have heard of Oceanside (well known for glass), and they should be able to tell you why installing glass is different. It is impervious, and therefore mastic doesn't create a bond. It is see-through (I know this sounds obvious) so it requires that the whole tile be covered (the trowel shouldn't create a gap that the wall surface shows thorugh or you will see it. You can tell on the picture.

I ended up ordering part of mine from Oceanside (they have an account with CBP, who is right down the road from them). I think I used the Premium Plus with the Custom Flex additive. Call them and ask them which mix you should use (remember it needs to be white). DO NOT use mastic. I am linking a pic to show you what happens when they do that. I learned the hard way.

Also, jsut so you are aware, Oceanside recommends that the tile be installed over concrete board, as opposed to regular drywall or even greenwall. I think for a backsplash application however, you would be fine without the conrete board. If you ever do it in a bathroom though, make sure to use the concrete board.

I had such a bad experience with the first installer that I did the tub deck myself. I didn't trust anyone after that...BTW if you think you can do it yourself, do it!! Tile (esp for a backsplash) is very DIY friendly.

HTH!!

Here is a link that might be useful: link to my photobucket pics

Help - how do you mockup the backsplash when not on mesh

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talley_sue_nyc

muscat

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Help - how do you mockup the backsplash when not on mesh

Comments (5)

talley_sue_nyc

muscat

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