not sure what you're aiming for - but look on recent threads regarding cork flooring. a pic of one posted might be along the lines you're thinking. it's done all in cork tho.

The reason you're having little feedback is because it is mixed-media. There are very few people who would do both tile and wood. Coordinating a tile guy and a wood floor guy might be tricky.
The best ones I have seen use wood with fully mitered ends (to a point) so they all meet at an "X".
Otherwise it might look like a ladder in one direction, but not in the other. The wood could also be "woven" like a very open basketweave pattern; each length of wood would be approx. 4 feet, and meet with square cuts.
If this is a wood subfloor, you will have to reinforce the framing if you want one-piece 2'x2' tiles in the windows of wood. If you are willing to use 6"x6" or smaller tile, an ordinary but well-built subfloor/framing will suffice.
Casey

Not sure this is the look you're aiming for, but some European tile brands like Porcelanosa or Rex Ceramiche have wood-like tiles that are designed to be combined with their regular tile collections.

One link below

Here is a link that might be useful: Rex Ceramiche : Ebony and Marble floors example

I wanted to add that Rex tiles are available from Mission Tiles in the US, if you need a specific source.

Like this? I've seen it, but I don't have any idea how it is installed, or cleaned.

Here is a link that might be useful:

While this is an interesting look, it's a HUGE PIA for installers and whomever maintains your floor. The subfloor requirements for each are different, although I suppose you could nail wood to cement backerboard if you really had to. If you can even find someone who can manage the logistics, it will be VERY expensive. Not just double the price of tile or wood, but probably triple. And all the money will be in the labor. It's very labor intensive to accomplish. Tile and wood hve different expansion coefficients also, so every single point where tile meets wood will need to be caulked, and no caulk will be all that long lived and look good. Even good quality color matched caulk gets cruddier looking and more difficult to clean than it's surrounding grout. You'll also be on your hands and knees spot cleaning your floor with different cleaning solutions for the different areas, especially in the traffic patterns.

If you like the look, a much easier way to accomplish it would be using all one material, such as all tile or all wood. It would still be pretty expensive laborwise, but at least you would be dealing with the same prep requirements pre install and care requirements post install.

Amazing! You all are such a treasure of information! Thank you!

desertsteph- I DID see that floor on the cork floor thread & tried unsucessfully to find another picture. That one is rather dark. Their "planks" are placed a little close together, but that IS the look I'm seeking. Cork gets rave reviews from many, but if it fades, the contrast is lost. umm---more to think about.

sombreuil mongrel- Mixed-media! Perfect term! I had NO IDEA about the subfloor requirements! Thank you! (It's encouraging to know that at least you've seen some "best ones"!)

barthelemy- ooouuu! BEAU-TI-FUL! Another big thank you! I think all tile might be the best option.

idrive65- You found the pic I've searched a month for! What a resource! That one looks like it's done in the basketweave pattern that sombreuil mongrel mentioned. It will be a big room, so there's lots of cleaning to consider.

live_wire_oak- Another great post! I've only shopped one flooring store with my hair-brained idea, but the rep appeared very casual about the installation. This remodel is enough of a PIMA, I don't need more grief with a difficult installation & cruddy caulk! Thank you!

So much to ponder! Thanks again!

That's a fabulous floor idea, if you can get it done. I have a kitchen flagged in one of my books that has wood and stone floors in that pattern, but it's in Belgium, in a 17th century barn and not translatable to my house. Still, it's gorgeous.

Do 24"x24" travertine tiles. And then 8" wide walnut or teak planks. I have seen it done but as others have said, $$$ and extremely skilled installer.
In the end it will look stunning!

The subfloor requirements for each are different, although I suppose you could nail wood to cement backerboard if you really had to.

Actually, this is very EASY to do, provided your subfloor is 3/4", and not 5/8".

That's all you need for 3/4" hardwood (for something like this, the prefinished would be best), and then for each of the tile areas, after the wood's down, you can insert 1/4" cement board and then tile. That should bring the tile up to just about perfectly flush to the hardwood. Then you grout the joints between the tiles, if there ARE any, and caulk the tile to the wood, using a siliconized latex caulk that matches the grout.

This is not a difficult project. The most difficulty is before it even starts-- in the layout of the floor.

zeebee- umm..1950, not quite 17th c, but it sometimes resembles a barn!

pharaoh- I'll certainly have to weigh in all the costs. With what sombreuil mongrel mentioned, using 24"x24" will increase the framing costs as well, but fewer grout lines may be worth it.

bill v- I just visited your website yesterday for the first time & I'm so impressed! Your post here is very encouraging. Just a few questions though:
I thought prefinished planks were all t&g. Will that work?
What difficulties should I look for on the layout?

Thank you all!!!

I thought prefinished planks were all t&g. Will that work?

Yes, they will. Although it can still work with the "tongue" still on, it works better if your installer cuts it off wherever the wood will abutt the tile.

What difficulties should I look for on the layout?

The thing is, when laying out for tile, you want to make sure you have big cuts up against all walls. With this kind of floor, you want to make sure that the ceramic PANELS are considered as single tiles when figuring the layout-- You want those panels, anywhere they abutt a wall, to be a good size, especially where they'll be most visible.

You also want to make dead sure that the wood is all laid square, and all ceramic areas are EXACTLY the same size. Any deviation will be seen.

Sorry for the delay...but THANK YOU Bill! You've given some nice encouragement. Wanna visit SoCal? ;7)

Where in soCal? I know some pretty terrific tile installers scattered around there. :-)

And keep in mind that the wider the wood planks the more room must be left for their expansion and contraction.

The woos is GOING to expand and contract.

Nothing can stop it, even tile.

Maybe having a floor that is difficult to maintain will be good for your 2chus problem...?