I did a big bookcase project using those metal standards you bolt to the wall. you can go to the Sagulator to see about width between brackets based on what you expect to put on the shelves. But what if you are stuck w/ a bigger span than the Sagulator tells you will work? Or if you want to use plywood or pine instead of some expensive hardwood? Remember that attaching a second board perpendicular to the front (like a lip, but on the bottom) of the shelf will strengthen it quite a bit--that's not reflected in the Sagulator's calculations. Here's how it works: you cut your 3/4-inch-thick plywood to the length you want, and to the depth you want minus 3/4 inches. Then you get a narrow piece of wood--maybe a 1x2--and cut it to the same length as the shelf. You lay the 1x2 against the front edge, so it points down. You apply a solid smear of wood glue between them, and you nail it in place. (clamp or strap it if you can to improve the glue bond). Maybe you can use a 1x1, which would probably be the same width as your shelf itself, but it wouldn't add as much strength as a 1x2. Sometimes this reinforcing wood is attached to the UNDERSIDE of the shelf right at the front; again, it's glued and perhaps screwed (since the screw head won't be visible), to keep it very snug against the shelf. Because this board is perpendicular to the shelf, it'll keep it from sagging (think about iti--ever tried to bend a 1x2 sideways along the wide face?) You can often reinforce w/ a strip of L-angle metal; it needs to be toward the front and it isn't as attractive as a strip of wood. Stronger, maybe but not as pretty. You can use something a bit smaller than you might need if you use wood, which would mean it impinges on your storage space less.. If you're worried about your ability to clamp or strap the wood to get a good blue bond, you could use the metal L-angles, and then on the front of the L-angle, attach a strip of lattice. One advantage of attaching that wood to the front of the shelf is that it will cover the raw cut edge of the plywood. But if you choose the L-angle idea, you can get the iron-on edge banding to finish the fronts. They make a snifty tool to trim the edges of the edgebanding. That's what I did, and the shelves look great. Plywood is the most economical way to get shelves the side you want. Trying to buy boards the exact width is more expensive than paying the lumber yard to cut the wood. I personally would avoid Home Depot bcs in my area, they won't promise to cut to exact size; I go to a lumber yard that will. Also, I've had people tell me this, and then tell me it wasn't true: When you have your plywood cut to size, be sure the surface grain of the top layer of plywood is running the LONG way on the shelf. NOT the short way; it'll bow more easily that way. Maybe it's not true on the 3/4 plywood, but I've seen this be a problem on 1/2-inch plywood, and I wouldn't take a chance on any other width. Another thought: remember that those brackets themselves take up space from the shelf below, so that front drop-down lip won't affect THAT much of your storage space. And, you might not want to have that many of those brackets across the span, just because they get in the way. So putting one on every stud might be a royal pain. I know for our bookshelves, we went w/ the outside dimension we could possibly get. OH, and to make it so the shelves would touch the wall between the standards, I cut out a notch where the standards would go. Next time, I'll get a hole saw for my drill and cut out a semi-circle at that spot; it'll be much easier. The 90-degree turns were a PITA. Feel free to ask me any more questions, either here on this thread or by e-mail. Here is a link that might be useful: Sagulator

What an interesting thread, from long ago with lots of old names. I wonder who's still around? (Not me anymore!). I've wondered about this, accepted that cotton just isn't cotton anymore. I've presumed it's the same way that "100% cotton blue jeans" somehow have stretchy waistbands. Clearly the modern 100% isn't quite what I think of when I think of "100%". So - I've just presumed that all these cottons are processed in some way that affects its absorption and content, even, they just don't have to declare it. But that's just been my speculation, I don't know. Microfiber is not the same. It doesn't absorb the way an old cotton towel does. It could also be the dyes used commercially. If I were to really investigate this, I'd try some "organic" cotton and "organic dyes", to see if this helps. Note that you can buy "shop towels" at Home Despot that are white terry cloth, loose weave, not in any way pretty, but thoroughly absorbant as of days of yore. All these things do matter and there is a big difference between towels I've bought in bundles from Costco (bad absorbers) from some other less boingy towels from who-knows where. So ... I think all these variables matter perhaps?

I'm patiently waiting for a World Market table to arrive, myself. I was looking for a kitchen/dining table that will be our only table (no formal dining room). I also had a size requirement that it not be too wide or too long because it's going in the space between my kitchen and living room, but I needed to be able to make it larger for company. I looked around a lot, for months, including craigslist. I already knew I was getting the chairs separately because I'm getting red bi-cast leather parsons dining chairs. When I looked at the cost of a table on craigslist (most come with a set of chairs) versus a brand new table, I'd only be paying $100 or $200 more for a brand new table, so I stopped with craigslist. I also needed something durable since we have three kids (ages 6 to 13) so veneers were out. This table is wood all the way through. Furniture gets damaged over time, and that's something I'm prepared to live with. I'll be a lot less upset with a $500 table getting some scratches in it than I will with something a lot more expensive, so the price point is good, too. A girlfriend of mine has a few pieces of World Market furniture, including her dining table set, and loves it. (She has no kids though). Good luck on your shopping. Here is a link that might be useful: WM table I am buying

wow this does look really good. I would continue to work at this. I think the idea of lightening up the inside of the bookcase with the fabric wrapped foam would also help bridge everything. also maybe decorating the mantle with lighter objects to pull the lighter color over to that wall. maybe replacing the the stone around the fireplace to something lighter as well. overall it looks really beautiful; I'm just nit picking.