Dealing w/relocation company for repairs
momofone23
9 years ago
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louislinus
9 years agolast modified: 9 years agoRelated Discussions
relocating - tangent from my KC, MO thread
Comments (23)I would love to tell you we don't have mosquitos but I would be lying. They aren't the state bird like when I was in Wisconsin, but we do have them. Our summers can be rough because it is humid here in the summer. In the winter we get some snow, not tons and tons, and we get ice storms occasionally. My cousin lives in Parkville. It is a very cute town and has some great real estate, both older homes and newer suburbs. School-wise I think you're in good shape up north; it is really just KCMO proper where the schools are dreadful. I live one block from the KS-MO state line (on the Kansas side) just a little south of the Plaza. If the job involves air travel you're very smart to stick to the northland. Even though the airport is an easy commute from anywhere (25 minutes maybe for me?) if I were doing it several times a month, I would want to be closer. I don't know much personally about Liberty or Parkville but I have friends who grew up in Liberty and my cousin in Parkville so if you have any specific questions let me know and I can ask them. Anita...See MoreRepairing Stacked Washer / Dryer is it really that big of a deal?
Comments (16)Very glad someone is still using this thread. My stackable w/d in 2nd floor condo is older Maytag workhorse INSIDE CLOSET. Most stacked laundry centers are 27" wide and mine was installed by removing side wood strips but not actual door frame. Never a problem for many years. 3 nights ago felt carpet was wet outside w/d closet and found out washer had water underneath it. I had NOT done any laundry for past 2 weeks so figured it was leaking just from residual water in pump (now assume it would've leaked sooner if pump) or from leaking water intake hose (can't move unit to look even if I knew what to look for or outtake hose/pipe has clog/blockage. Had to turn off water at main since can't turn off at machine because it's BEHIND stacked units. Dried water on floor under washer in closet and eventually no more water leaking under washer. Now stuck between repair man and plumber deciding which one will come out to investigate. Don't even know if 30 year old Maytag workhorse parts are available. Some tell me to just get new stackable laundry center but not to expect it to last more than about 10 years. Found out this isn't unusual conundrum because by the time the repair man checks it out & say's it's the plumbing and I have plumber come out to see it water outtake is blocked I'll have spent half price of new stacked laundry center. Have to turn water main back on tonight because I need to collect much more water to flush toilet, wash hands, etc. Never saw example of how much water it takes to flush a toilet but need a lot more. After I turn on main for short time to collect more emergency water I'll see it washer leaks again and hopefully that will tell repair man and plumber which one has best informed guess if it's washer failure or outtake blockage. I know most people are going to tell me to scrap the old stacked w/d but it's been without any problem & it's a solid built pair of appliances. Am I soliciting advice in error when it comes down to my uninformed analysis of whether to money at repair of either machine/outer hoses and/or plumbing outtake blockage? And NO....once service and/or plumbing people hear it's stacked w/d they don't call back or tell me they don't send 2 people for initial call but can't tell me how one person is going to pull out very heavy laundry center to assess problem. GE stacked laundry centers don't get best reviews but they're the bulk of the market if you want at least average 3+-4 stars from all sales/review places. If anyone has advice on this situation please let me know. Have the feeling people who frequent this or "appliance" discussions will be of the mind to just get a new unit and dispense with all the guessing between repair man, plumber and myself isn't worth it given the age of the units even though I'll never get one that's a long term workhorse like my old Maytag laundry center. Maybe I just have to accept built in obsolescence of never appliances, HVAC, etc. and get on with it. But, but, but....sigh....See MoreNeed help dealing w/ REA's/Property Managers on leases - kinda ot
Comments (10)After selling our home last year, we returned to the Northern Virginia area and decided to rent for a while. We are now in our second rental house. Price negotiability really depends on your market. In my area, house rents are all over the map. There is definitely room to negotiate but it takes work and patience. Take the advice of the prior posters. But be prepared for rejection. If your new area experienced a big run-up during the boom or was an area with a lot of investment properties, many owners are trying to cover their mortgages. Makes sense. However, it's unrealistic for many owners to cover their mortgages and other costs if the area saw rapid price inflation w/o commensurate increases in income. Rent is very sensitive to income and I've watched many houses sit on the rental market because they're overpriced. It's very hard for owner/investors to accept that they make get only 60-70% of their costs covered. I've negotiated the rents down by several hundred dollars/month on each of my houses. I've also been approached by owners I had talked to during my search who are now ready to meet my price...housing markets are a bit wacky now even if you're just interested in renting. The good news is that you're looking at the worst possible time for landlords w/o tenants. It's late fall/coming up on winter and most families have moved in and settled down until the spring/summer relocation season kicks in. You're in an excellent negotiating position. Be fair and you may find a landlord that will appreciate it. Also, please don't forget that a good rental agreement isn't just about price. The terms of your lease are equally important. My first landlords failed to sell their home so they rented it BUT wanted to keep it on the market with a lockbox for the entire term of the lease. Needless to say we walked. They came back hanging their heads and we negotiated a much better arrangement for us. Now, this will sound strange but I considered it pretty important. If renting from a private owner w/o the involvement of a property management company, run a credit check on the landlords. There are a lot of homeowners out there teetering on the brink and you don't want a foreclosure/eviction notice after you've gone to the expense and trouble of moving in. The real estate agent should be able to help you. There are owner/landlords who will try and intimidate you because you're a lowly renter. Don't fall for it. Stay your best assertive homeowning self and don't settle for less than you need. It pays to know average rents for various types of housing in your market. I had a real estate agent helping me with the first house. She was great. She found places for me to see, called owners with home for sale to see if they might be interested in renting, she had the rental statistics, and she was invaluable in negotiating a lease. There are a lot of accidental landlords in the market right now and they range from decent to just awful. Having a real estate professional helping you with the details of the lease can save you money and enhance your living experience. The agent did not pressure us to buy. She earns a small leasing commission from the landlord and also earns a potential future buyer...you. We sent our agent a giant gourmet basket of goodies as a thank you and she was thrilled. I could write a book on the subject of transitioning from homeowner to renter and will be happy to answer any questions you may have down the line. One more piece of advice. Before you begin looking, study the landlord/tenant law in your new area. Most states/counties now have online handbooks and it's best to know your rights and responsibilities upfront....See MoreRelocating Electrical Panel
Comments (16)Just some thoughts: If the red is where the meters are and the green is where you want to move them, wouldn't the meters still be inside the new build if it is the rectangle outlined in green in the upper left or do you mean the red is where the meters are now and you want to move them straight across in the direction of the arrow to the outside of the green rectangle ... w/green rectangle representing the new build? In your plan, to the right of where there are the words "7' side yard setback" , there appears to be a part of the garage that is narrower (with angles) ... perhaps used for mower, tools, etc ? -- but still a part of the garage. IF you create your new build beside that back part of the existing garage -- behind the red marks -- would your new build be behind the meters and your meters still outside? How far from the building do the meters extend? Would they be in the way of driving a vehicle past them to park within a new build built behind them -- behind where the new build is now shown? For a larger car, perhaps, but would a smaller car be able to drive past the meters to reach a new build farther back behind the meters? Check local codes and see if having the meters on the side exterior wall of the garage but beneath an open car shed/porch still considered "inside" and prohibited; if not, consider adding a car shed rather than adding an enclosed garage. There appears to be two "cable tv" easements -- one in front and one in the back right. Are there any meters actually behind the house where there is a "cable tv utility easement" on the bottom right behind the house? Have you considered/priced moving the right rear cable tv access point and creating a car shed/porch at that back right corner of the house rather than adding to the garage in front?...See Morepixie_lou
9 years agolast modified: 9 years agomomofone23
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