Hi Markbr, Here are my 2 cents: 1. What Filter would you recommend for this. Go with a Pentair Clean & Clear cartridge filter. Easy to maintain and keeps the water crystal clear. 2. What pump would you recommend Go with a Pentair IntelliFlo VS (variable speed). I would also recommend an EasyTouch 4P or 8P (single body system right)? You will get the best interop between the EasyTouch and IntelliFlo. 3. Which Salt water system If you get an EasyTouch, get one with an IC40 salt cell (good for up to 40,000 gallon pools). This way you can use the EasyTouch to control the salt cell. 4. Which brand Heat pump and what size BTU. Haven't had much experience with Pentair ThermalFlo heat pumps but I hear good things about them. 5. Which cleaning robot, I would prefer one I didn't have to connect to tubing, just something I can throw in without work. I personally use the Pentair Prowler cleaner and like it very much. Easy to use and clean. 6. Which Skimmer to buy Admiral S200 with circular weir is my favorite. 7. Which return jets Not sure. 8. Which lights Do you want color or white?

I liked Grover's suggestions, but then I saw Diana Bier's suggested photo, and I was impressed. I love that dark, dramatic color! Also, notice how the runner has both colors to tie it all together. On another note, one of the people felt the beiges would be too blah, but my suggestion would be to find a piece of art with some color on it for the walls - no more blah, if you go for the beige! BTW, I thought your backsplash plays nicely with your floor.

She lectured me that they should have waited on her to grout the tub area and now the backsplash would have to be acid etched and grout lightened and it would take time and a cost of $600. I asked if we could leave the 2 sections with different grout as the area us slightly broken up but she said no it would have to be done this way. acid etch? glass tiles? (or is that marble?) either way, bad idea. Didn't her crew realize what would happen? let me just say this about the tiling job,,,last pic, right corner. a good tiler will line up the design so that there is no break. A good tiler knows there is no way you're going to 'etch' the grout out of this mosaic. the only way to remove grout is with a hand tool or dremel and grind it out. what did it look like before this debacle? why wasn't a sample tile grouted to see if you liked it? why wasn't the designer there on site and why did you have to go to the store to get new grout? where is project manager or GC on this job? I just redid my neighbors bathroom. I was designer, project manager and GC along w/my tile guy, who is also a GC. we both collaborated before starting any task. tile layout, design, grout, color, etc. then we went to the customer and showed them exactly what it was going to look like. if they approved it, we did it. So I really don't get where your designer is coming off lecturing you. Do not pay. If you material is damaged, then she and her crew are responsible for fixing it or replacing it. Period. I would not accept, nor pay for, any damaged, etched, scratched or otherwise blemished material that was caused by their doing. you do not 'etch' grout to lighten it. never heard of such a thing. the damage was caused by her telling her crew to do that. I can't believe they did it. your tile guys are bozos. She owes you new tile and a new install. (I'd hire someone else that knows how to install a difficult water jet mosaic. cuz the guys that did yours do not)

The paver contractor should provide a 1/2" gap behind the coping to allow for expansion. Usually the paver base is used and is sufficient. If no joint is provided, the pavers can move and damage the back of the coping during freeze thaw periods, I have seen this countless times. Foam can be installed to be used a guide to provide the proper space. On concrete patios, a foam expansion material is installed prior to the pour. It provides a space between the concrete and the coping at a 1/2". The gap is then filled with a self-leveling polysulfide material and prevents moisture from entering. It has an elastic consistency and moves with the coping and concrete. The name brand we use is Deck-O-Seal. If the polysulfide is not installed, water can get between and possibly get under the coping base and pop it off during freeze/thaw cycles. Can also lead to tile issues also on concrete pools.