I think it indicates an overall lack of fertility. The spots are caused by the spot fertilization by the dog. You can either follow him around with a hose to dilute the urine right away or try the sugar. Scatter a heaping handful of sugar onto each spot as soon as you suspect a spot is forming. You might need to patrol the yard more frequently. What the sugar does, apparently, is signal the microbes in the soil to populate instead of feeding. But it isn't long before the expanded population of microbes is back to feeding. It is the microbes that decompose the urine. With fescue it could be the plants are dead, but the best solution I've seen is the sugar. Feeding your dog a different diet has been suggested over and over, but I can't remember anyone claiming it worked. Lots of people claim the sugar works. Generally you should probably fertilize the entire lawn. Normally I suggest waiting until Memorial Day but that date is not really cast in concrete. It is just easy to remember.

After 5 years...still astounded that anyone thinks it has anything to do with what the dog eats. It's soil chemistry. Person A has dogs and no burnt grass. Person B has dogs and burnt grass. Person A brings their dogs to Person B's house. Person A's dogs burn Person B's grass. Reason? Person A's soil has a better balance of organisms that nitrify urea into NO2 and NO3 and thus, a healthier lawn. This is the only reason...treat your lawn, not your dog. Apply a VERY small amount of urea to your lawn....try a small patch first to make sure you get it right and don't kill your entire lawn. once this is done, your grass will look sick but will bounce back, in a month, do it again. Your grass might not even look sick after this time. After a month, do it again...your grass will probably green up and grow like a forest the following week. Mission accomplished, you have increased the number of nitrifying organisms in your lawn 1000 fold and won't have burnt grass anymore. If you have weak grass already, don't do this. Get it strong first with topsoil, overseeding, and fertilizer with higher 2nd and 3rd numbers. It could take a year...be patient. Credentials: Years of research on this exact subject for a lawn fertilizer company.

I very much understand wanting to control the odor. I provided hospice care for my grandmother, and although it was a blessing to be able to spend time with her and care for her, the odor was overwhelming. Krissie has great advice. I will add that I used, and still use a product called OdoBan. It is a disinfectant/order eliminator. You can buy it at Sams club, Home depot. Its concentrated, and you dilute according to usage. I believe its about $10 a gallon or so. You can add it to laundry as well. Works wonders for odors, and kills germs as well. I suggest opening a window in the room if you use it, to help things dry ( and fresh air helps with odor as well ) Baking soda and vinegar are good for cleaning, and odor removal, but in a situation with very heavy urine odor, it doesn't cut it. Try Odoban, or an enzymatic odor neutralizer like natures miracle to break down the odors.

Morpheus informed you earlier that, "The Milo will help, but it'll take more of an organic base to stop the dog burns. Usually you need enough carbon in the soil (and soil life living on said carbon) to fix and immobilize the nitrogen from the dog pee. And there's a lot of nitrogen in pee." It takes time, frequent feedings of organics (grains such as corn, soybean, alfalfa, etc.), and constant mulch mowing (both grass and leaves) in order to establish a higher organic base. Four applications of milorganite is definitely not enough.