Laura, Sod cutters work very well in certain types of soil. You have to be very strong to use one...it is much more a task for a gentleman than for a lady. This is the kind of job that when we do it, DH runs the sodcutter and I help. The sod also is very heavy to handle after it is cut. One way to enlist help in removing the sod is to offer it on Craigslist or Freecycle, and state clearly that whoever wants the sod has to be there while y'all are cutting it so they can load it up and take it away that day. Usually people will knock themselves out to get free grass sod. If you want to see one in operation, there are videos online...likely on YouTube as well as on the websites of sodcutter manufacturers and rental companies. When checking into renting one, find out what type they have...there are some that are very, very large and heavy and others that are a bit more lightweight. The more lightweight ones work fine in sandy or loamy soil but you may need a more heavy duty one in thicker, denser soil that has a heavy clay content. Plan for a long, difficult day when you're cutting and removing sod, and depending on the type of soil you have, it can take longer than you think it will. Sodcutters are the best way to remove bermuda grass if you have soil that isn't so dense or rocky that the cutter cannot penetrate it to the proper depth. They're sort of like a big saw on wheels and they cut through the soil/grass sod at whatever depth you set. You have to be careful you don't set the depth too low with clay soil, or the sod/clay is too heavy to lift. Some stolons or roots may be left behind, and bermuda can sprout from seed that blows in from elsewhere, but a sodcutter is still the best way to remove bermuda. This is the perfect time of year to use a sodcutter because the soil is nice and moist. I'd never try to use a sodcutter with very dry soil, especially very dry clay soil. I have some beds I want to enlarge and am thinking of renting a sod cutter to do it during the next week or two. Dawn

Marge, I do use it LOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! There is no perfect one cutting system IMO! It will never replace my rotary cutter the same as the little iron thingies will never replace a regular iron. Depending on the way it is used there can be a lot of waste. The video shows just folding fabric and placing it in the cutter and I can tell you that will waste fabric. I still roughly cut mine into over sized pieces first after starching and ironing. If it is a long strip of fabric I do fold it over instead of cutting them. I have been using the 5 inch die lately getting scraps under control. The thing I love about the cutter is the accuracy. The thing I dislike about it is some fabrics will cut to a slightly different size if not place on the straight of grain. Of course, this makes sense, but when I was cutting scraps I didn't feel like pulling each piece to find the straight of grain. It is not enough to matter for an experienced quilter, but it may throw a newbie off a little. When I watched the video 'they' say the most popular die is the strip and I would prob never use it for strips. I prefer my June Taylor shape cut for strips. It does take up my space on my folding table so I don't leave it out. I have 2 books of nickel quilts so the 5 inch die is the one I like the most. There are also applique die and I will never buy those. It does require turning the handle to move the fabric over the die so it may be a prob for someone with arthritis. Over all I find it to be faster than trying to measure and rotary cut squares. Rosa

Working on a lower table is a good suggestion. Having the right size rulers helps a lot too. You want one long enough for the job but having one that's not too long is also helpful because you can manipulate it and hold it more easily and it won't be getting in your way. Sometimes it also helps to measure with one and then butt another one up to it for cutting. The Olfa frosted ones slip less than slick shiny ones. I'm sure other companies make grippy ones too. You can make any ruler you already have more slip resistant by putting a tiny piece of very fine sandpaper on the corners of slippy rulers to make them grip the fabric. A bit of double stick tape will also do the trick to reduce slippage. Hold the ruler with firm pressure with a spread hand -- left hand if you're going to cut with your right, right if you're going to cut with your left. But don't feel like you have to apply so much pressure that you're not relaxed and ready to focus on your cutting hand. A sharp blade in your rotary cutter probably makes more difference than anything else. If you're pressing really hard to try to compensate for nicks in the blade, the chances of getting a slip increase greatly. Make sure you have the right size cutter too -- for long straight cuts, use the 60mm cutter. The smaller ones are for curvier and fussier cuts. ALWAYS put the guard in place before you put your cutter down so that you will never pick up one with an exposed blade. There's no reason to cut yourself if you stop and approach the cutter consciously. And those are nasty cuts that I bet you're nervous about if you've had a couple of them! ALWAYS cut away from your body. Olfa says to cut to your hand on the ruler and then move your hand and cut again without lifting the blade. I disagree, personally. I cut with one smooth cut. NOT saying the ruler never slips but it's usually minor and I can square up and make another cut without much waste. Also, use the edge of the ruler -- butt your blade right up to it and let it ride against the side of the ruler. Sometimes I get a shadow or something in my field of vision and I think I've had a slip because I'm not trusting the tools and my own kinetic feelings as I cut. When that happens and I try to make some correction, that's when I screw up. ;> There are also removable neon colored tapes that you can put on your ruler so that you are very clear where your measuring line is and, so, your cutting line. If all that doesn't help, sometimes it works to fold your fabric from center point to selvage, carefully align selvages on a line on your mat and square it up. Then you can make shorter cuts. The thing about that is your folding and your laying the fabric out have to be meticulous so you don't end up with the wave in your extended strips. Hope something there helps. You could save a lot of money for buying more fabric and batting. ;>

I have the GO and the 5&1/2 and 6&1/2 dies. The 4&1/2 and 2&1/2 and a triangle die comes with it. The one I use most is the 5&1/2 square. Have no interest in the applique dies at all. Cutting is my least fav part of quilting so I really enjoy mine. There is some fabric waste so I cut my fabric in smaller pieces to avoid the waste as much as possible, and I press and starch before I cut. When you turn the handle the smaller one may be hard to secure to the table so it doesn't move. There is only 7 pounds difference between the 2 so that's not a big deal for me. The baby says it will cut 6 layers at a time, I think it would be hard to turn the handle to roll over the die with that many layers, and since my GO will slip I just wonder how much the light baby will slip around. It will never replace the rotary cutter, IMO, but my cuts have been accurate. Rosa