What about using the grout and additive just as you would thinset, and then just grouting it as usual after drying? I had wanted to use the Laticrete epoxy grout with it, as it's easier to clean. blondelle, you can certainly do that. Use XYZ colored grout and add 4237 to it and use that as your colored thinset to adhere the tiles to the wall. Then after the thinset has cured, use XYZ colored epoxy grout to grout the tiles. You can't be promised an exact color match, as sometimes cured epoxy grout isn't an exact color match to cured portland grout, but with one being behind the glass tile and the other in the grout joint, is should work fine. Can colorant be added to thinset without compromising it in some way? It seems it would be hard to mix in evenly. I've never used them, but there are color-tinted liquid admixes that you can use to color white powders. I use dry pigments, and I've always mixed dry pigments with the dry powder very, very well, then after I add any liquids. After consulting with various tech departments years ago when I first started using pigment additives, I've always used 10% as my limit by weight. Example, no more than 5 pounds of pigment added to a 50# bag of cement. Since these bagged materials are about 50/50 sand/cement, I'd limit my pigment to 5%, or 2-1/2 lbs of pigment to a 50 pound bag of thinset. Usually you won't come even close to that. But again for color-matching, or for getting a known color, that's why it's easiest to modify an already colored grout to turn it into thinset, then use the same colored grout as grout. I'm afraid of proof-reading this, now even my head is spinning! Mongo

PRO: I have the privilege of bidding and estimating remolding and repair jobs for a really big company and we see A TON of pools (remodeled over 30,000). This is not a pitch for my services, but my advice would be to put in a pool grade waterline tile and grout it by professionals. Tile is not for looks, it acts as a system to waterproof your pool. As your water level raises or lowers (or stays the same if you have an autofill) at some point your pebble will be exposed to air. In a perfect world about 3 inches will be exposed if you keep up on your water. A cementitious surface for your pool is meant to be hydrated as it cures. Total cure time is debatable, but I've taken classes where some experts think total hydration can take years. I'm sure there are cases (like the one above) where pebble can last 25+ years exposed to the elements, but there are of other factors that might of helped this rare occasion and I'm sure its not just cement strengtheners being added to the mix either. I find cracks in pools and problems with pools that owners didn't even know exist, everyday. I show them, and they all say "Wow! Now I see it, never even noticed that before!" Most often (depending on installed coping) we see small hairline cracks form at the base of the coping, they can run vertically or horizontally. Our solution is always to reset any loose coping (if cantilever or poured in place install a silicone joint) choose a thin tile (if not doing a re-pebble/re-plaster) and get new waterline tile in. Just my take on it from what I've seen. Feel free to find me and private message me if you would like more information. Please do not let pool builders convince you it will be fine, we are the guys out there cleaning up their messes and fixing the problems they never see years later.

Thank you Beekeeperswife! I love your kitchen so much, I checked it out on the Mission Tile and Stone site too, fabulous! I asked my fabricator to make me lazy susan's out of my sink cutouts. I have one marble and one in granite. They're pretty heavy but they blend right in when they're sitting on the counter. The marble one is going to go on the wood breakfast table because I'm not so sure I want that one to blend in. Aokat, thank you! You're kitchen is going to be spectacular. If I could have chosen any size, layout and style kitchen I wanted, I'd have plucked yours right off the page! I tried to remove the corbels myself this morning because I'm off from work. No luck. Best left to the carpenter I guess. I bet he'll do that last. Thanks Pricklypearcactus! I appreciate the positive feedback. It's scary to spend so much money and then fear I'm creating a frankenstein every time something gets installed :)

Enduring, I ALMOST went with the white too...I think it looks pretty cool and part of me still wishes I did. Thank you very much for the compliments...I'm glad it turned out to everyones liking. mpagmom, don't get me started on the choices for strand woven bamboo! it's been about a two month long process. The stuff you see in the picture above is actually someone who has some extra, it's about 2.25 a sq ft and I figure for that price why not...I'm going to be floating it so I keep the floors I have in tact, just in case. I've looked at so many strand bamboo floors I have one conclusion...they are all the same stuff from china with the exception of a few, Dasso seems to be a cut above, and it's only about 4.50....and then Teragren also stood out...but they are quite expensive. Morning star, shcon, premium green they are the same as any other strand bamboo, in my opinion.