I opened all the links. 1st, I would get well known faucets and not something I've never heard of. If they fail you want excellent warranties. I noticed that these faucets have a flat top. I have one lovely faucet with a flat top and it is always getting spots on it. A rounded spout will shed the water better between hand washing. I have to always keep a microfiber towel at the faucet and clean it up after each wash. My other traditional faucet from the same company is not like this with water spotting. Both are Chrome. 2nd, if it was me, I would stick to chrome, cheaper and more durable in the long run I believe. When I finish this text I am going to link to a sight I used before, because it has a lot of info on bathroom layouts, and faucets. Look around the site for help. I have no interest in this link other than it helped me when I was choosing faucets and planning my layout. 3rd, I know nothing of that toilet but it looks interesting with that flushing system. Keep us posted on that. 4th I put in my own warming floors and had DH help with the pour of self leveling compound (SLC) to imbed the wires. I did not use the matts because of expense. I just saw at Lowes that they now have a NEW Ditra uncoupling membrane that allows the insertion of the warming wires within the Ditra waffles. This, I believe would be great, as one wouldn't need SLC. You'd install the Ditra and then the wires within the Ditra, then tile. At least that is what I think is done. Ditra is a very respected uncoupling membrane. If you have a wood subfloor you will need an uncoupling membrane of some sort. If you go to the John Bridge Tile forum, you can ask all sorts of questions there. They are VERY knowledgeable like Mongo, Bill, and Stonetech are over here. I haven't seen Stonetech so much lately. He is over on John Bridge (but goes by a different name), as is Bill. You have to know all this stuff before you buy anything else :) There is more to learn and it is fun. Just don't go too fast or you will have over bought and over spent. There is a balance to be made with information and purchases. Faucet infromation, page one of two, see link at bottom of the page.

Infinite, I was wrong! My coleus are exactly the color of yours, and I have a ton of them! I'll post a picture below and hope it's right side up. As far as postage, Once the weather is going to be reliably above freezing between you and me, I'll package up a few plants and send them. When I know how much the postage was, I'll let you know and you can mail me an equivalent amount of stamps, or something. Then again, I'd be fine chalking it up to an investment in world-wide friendship. You can pay it forward some day when you have an opportunity to make a wish come true. I'm now wondering, where did you say you got that plant? Is it possible you might find another one this spring? Or do you have a decent nursery near you? I'd hate for you to miss out on finding a huge ready-made plant today, by waiting for my measly little thing that might roast in a truck on it's way to you a few weeks from now. Anyway, here goes my photo attempt.

I was working on the plan idea below before I read that you were okay giving up nook seating. Thought I'd post it anyway. Plan A does not move any walls but it does add a wall to the pantry, creating a pantry and a mudroom closet and eliminating the walk-thru. I guessed at the pantry measurements, assuming it's 48" interior with standard thickness walls (4.5"). You should have about the same amount of pantry storage as your current walk-thru pantry provides. I wasn't quite sure how the width was measured but I assumed it was from exterior wall to end of current fridge wall. My measurements reflect that. I kept the aisles generous since the outside of the island is a major traffic path through your home. I wouldn't want to go deeper than 60" for an island anyway; deeper than that and it becomes difficult to clean the center of it. I moved the fridge towards the nook and added a prep sink to the island, creating a cooking zone. From what you've written, I'm assuming that you'll prefer to prep on the island, facing your family and friends. Most of our time making a meal is spent in prep, not at the range or cook top (studies est we spend 70% of our time prepping). I moved the clean-up sink and DW to the current fridge wall. I added a MW drawer to this area. I'd rather have it closer to the fridge but I opted not to give up drawer space in the island since you'll need that for pots, pans and prep items. I also assumed that your fridge is standard depth, not counter depth so I kept the aisle between island and range counter run generous enough so that you should have about 45" between counter and fridge door, 43" between counter and fridge handles. I created a banquette seating area in the nook with a bench filling the wall, making it easy for people to slide on and off the bench. You can seat 4 easily; in a pinch, you could seat 6. I added cabs on the half wall between nook and LR. You can use this area as a breakfast/beverage bar, Command Central, buffet counter... lots of possibilities. The island is large enough to seat 5. Add in nook seating, you can seat 9 in your kitchen. As your family and friends advance in years, they will prefer table seating over counter seating. The above plan does not affect walls but it does affect plumbing. It looks like you have a finished basement so changing plumbing will require tearing into the basement ceiling to move pipes and repairing the ceiling. This is not an expense you can avoid since you wish to change the shape of the island, which will mean moving the existing sink's plumbing. That said, a fellow GWer did share their method of moving plumbing without tearing into their concrete slab floors. I'll see if I can find that for you (they posted pics) in case it's a solution for you. Here's a slight modification to the above plan that requires changing the pantry walls. I eliminated the corner pantry in favor of a rectangular pantry with a pocket door. I shifted the back wall into the mudroom closet, making it smaller but keeping pantry storage roughly the same as it is in Plan A. Here's a pic showing you how this type of pantry would look: Changing the pantry shape means you get more counter on each side of the range. It will also make that corner seem larger. We got rid of a corner sink when we remodeled and I can't believe how much larger my kitchen feels without that angled cab cutting across the corner. I'm working on another idea but I won't have time to post it until later.

"...want it to look nice and be functional" (emphasis mine) Why does the range have to stay where it is? As Practigal mentioned, you could really use another 12" to 18" b/w the sink and range - even if you don't cook that much, you still need workspace b/w the two for when you do - even if it's just burgers or sandwiches. FYI...Pantry cabinets can be very expensive, especially the 24" deep ones. Could we see more of the space - does the refrigerator wall end at a wall or is it open to a doorway? (I assume it's a wall b/c of the line drawn, but I'm not positive.) Are you on a slab? Or, do you have a basement or crawl space? If a basement or crawl space, moving plumbing and gas is not that expensive. If you're on a slab, however, it can be costly to move plumbing more than a few inches. Gas can often be moved more, even when on a slab.