All_Wet and eriocaulon, Thanks for more thoughts. I have no idea how old our system is, but we have lived here ten years and it was installed well before we arrived. I appreciate the link to Rainbird valves. That was thoughtful of you. I had checked Rainbird's site as well as Lowe's and Home Depot before posting here. I had hoped that I could find a valve with a "body" similar to these old ones so that I could reuse the old base and not have to cut the 1" pvc. However all of the current "advanced designs" are such that I cannot do that. Since all of the valves are 18" underground, with my poor hearing, I would never be able to hear the water running in the defective valve though that idea makes sense. I never thought of a stethiscope. That is also a good idea. I finally "flipped a coin" and selected one valve and replaced it with a nice modern one with a manual On/Off Bypass Lever. That seems to have done the trick, at least there is no evidence of any water flow now while the system controller is not on, and that was what I was trying to do. So I think the job is done. Thank you for taking the time to help!

Same issue here, only my breaker box is 25' from the door of my crawlspace and I got tired of going under there and quit for today. Just left the light on while the switch says off. I am sure I wired the new light the same as the old one was wired. It's the end of a 3 fixture string. There are 2 black, a white, a grey, and a ground. The 2 blacks were with the black on the fixture. The white and grey were with the white of the fixture. The ground to the ground. I mean, that's simple, right? How could I have messed that up? Now the switch is in the off position and the light is on. Turn it off and trip the breaker. Keep the switch at off and reset the breaker and it trips immediately. I plan to undo and redo it tomorrow, but I don't fathom any new result. Any thoughts and/or advice? I am not a professional but I do reviews for Kichler so I've installed and/or replaced more ceiling fixtures than I can count and thus has never happened before. Thanks- Karen

Check your settings on shut down, make sure all are correct, then when you do a proper shut down make sure no tiny light is on before closing.

Load shedding/demand management is not a new idea. It's certainly an appropriate strategy when user demand for electricity exceeds transmission capability--irrespective of the cost of electricity or what state you happen to live in. Whether it's appropriate for a particular user to volunteer to participate in a load shedding program requires them to weigh a number of factors including their lifestyle and health needs and the performance of their particular home. Bumping a temperature setpoint up or down in a well-insulated home, for example, will have different implications than a poorly insulated one. Shedding the hot water heating load will have different implications for a large family or a single person and for a system which has a large versus a small tank. As for me, I'd rather have the set-point of my air conditioner raised a couple of degrees than the alternatives if the alternatives are a loss of a power grid or rolling blackouts. But, that's a personal choice.