I think I would also be like you and need to paint while the house is empty. I think the suggestions above are good ones. Also look at Revere Pewter, a Ben. Moore color that is very popular. It's a warm grey and you can do a search and find it here. Also, a neighbor of mine just painted her living room and hall a color called Dune Drift in the Seaside Collection by Valspar paint, sold at Lowes. It's a very calming color that is a neutral greyed green. A great Ben. Moore color that a few friends used and I love (and wish I used it in hindsight) is called Bamboo Shoot #1529. The other colors on the same strip as this that are deeper in color are also beautiful (Ocean Pebbles). My daughter just painted her bedroom BM Coventry Grey,a beautiful grey (cooler grey with a trace of blue). She says she feels like she is living in Nantucket. Beautiful with white molding. I have seen photos of most of these colors on this site. I don't like how the colors show on My Perfect Color, so don't check them out there. Sorry, I don't know any specific colors by Behr, but they will match anything because the color formulas are in their computer.

I've never seen your kitchen (or any pictures of it) and thus don't know how your tiles or countertop or paint or cabinets will look like under different lighting, so I have no way to know which would make your colors look best, but my inclination is to go with PAR38 bulbs in 6" cans, because that gives you the most options now and also in the future to change if necessary, or if better/cheaper LED lights come along. I've generally found high color temperatures (4000K and up) look best with white cabinets, which turn yellowish under 2700K light, but that wood cabinets look best with lower color temperatures. But the differences between halogen (about 2850k) and 3000 or 3500K are more subtle. I lean towards the GE 20947 halogen PAR38 bulbs I mentioned earlier, in part because I've used them frequently and can vouch that they give off great light (a 2850K 100CRI halogen won't dull colors like a 2700K 82CRI CFL does), an even well-focused beam spread, and not much glare. And the light bulbs themselves look good, more so than many LED floodlamps currently available which look more like showerheads or jet engines with visible heatsinks. The halogen bulbs have a rated 3000 hour life; by the time they burn out there should be a much larger, higher quality, and cheaper assortment of LED retrofits available then there are now; indeed, a halogen bulb now and an LED replacement two or three years hence could be less expensive than an LED bulb now. I don't notice much heat from them when installed in an 8' ceiling - they're much further away from you than the lights on your rangehood, and considerably bigger but only slightly higher wattage (and wattage correlates with heat). If you're really concerned about adding any heat though, maybe something like the Home Depot Commercial Electric 5"/6" LED modules (or another similar brand) would be better - they're cool, not wildly expensive, efficient, 3000K, but also only low-80s CRI. You can put a PAR30 bulb in a 6" or 6.5" can, but doing so requires a conical trim kit to look good (so there's no big gap around the bulb), and I've never liked that appearance - the fixture looks too big for the bulb - but getting a PAR38-capable nonetheless gives you that flexibility, whereas a 5" can can use only a PAR30. Myself I still prefer to use 5" cans for PAR30 lights for the neater appearance. Long necks or short necks are a choice only for the PAR30 size; other sizes have only one common shape. The long-neck bulb is more common in residential fixtures, and most of what you'll find in consumer-oriented stores. Cheap bulb extenders are sold in hardware stores that will effectively turn a short-neck PAR30 into a long-neck version, and sometimes the socket in the recessed fixture can be adjusted in or out to suit either. The short-neck PAR30 (or smaller bulbs) are a good option when dealing with shallow ceilings though where big cans may not fit. But most times (and nearly all times if there's an attic above your kitchen), there's plenty of space for a normal-depth large can.

I HATE Edison bulbs in any fixture and honestly why light the ceiling in a staircase . Look for something you love that lights the whole space . I have no clue as to your style so you need to share that if you want some suggestions . I like this style of lighting in a staircase , it adds drama and allows lighting to light up the whole space as for color that needs to be decided with all your other lighting and accents. Make sure whatever you choose is all LED bulbs in 4000K to keep the hassle of changing bulbs to a min. and also keep all the colors you have already chosen to stay true. .

You can not select without the ACTUAL plan for the bath, with all elements size considered. A Path between vanity and shower? that had better be a wide one, as there are codes for hanging lights near bathing. A "plan" is all of it......., layout ,dimensions, finishes, flavor. There is no such thing as "roughly" , INCHES matter to the extreme, as does all the rest. Your buggy is out front of the horse.