a few more drawings

Here is a link that might be useful: More drawings

You might look at garapa,do not use the clips,I use twp finish on ipe. Be very sure to provide cross ventalation on that lower project including vents in the stone skirting and floor vents in the decking close to the stone path way. John

Thanks, John!
Why not the clips? I am told by the guys at East Teak and AWDS that they are better and faster.
I will look into Garapa, is it dark brown when finished?
I will forward your advice about the venting to my contractor.
Thanks again!

eric

Sounds like you talked to a salesperson looking to add a few bucks to your bill. AWDS sells Eb-Ty hidden fasteners, they are made out of plastic. I can't see how those will hold ipe if it wants to move especially with a low to the ground deck like that. I can't see they would be easier either & it certainly won't be cheaper. I would suggest going with the headcoats or plugs. As John said ventilation is a must.

Al

Thanks for the advice, Al.
As I understand it, what the sales guy was trying to explain to me was that the fasteners are fewer steps than pre-drilling, countersinking every screw hole, and then possibly plugging them. He did say that if I were to go with the fasteners that I should also use glue.
I think that I now have a consensus from everyone who actually builds these things that I should simply use SS screws straight down with plugs or brown colored heads.
I received some samples of the wood from EastTeak and ...damn..that be some hard, dense *&$!! wood!
I am told by both salespeople at ET and AWDS that because the wood is so strong that I do not need to go 5/4 and can go 4/4 as long as joists are 16" oc. Is that correct? If so, it'll save me about $1500!!
I am not sure what you mean about ventilation. This is a deck that is partially sitting a foot above ground and the majority is 9 feet in the air. The garage doors in the picture are fake. Maybe you thought there is a garage under the deck? Or is there something I am missing? Probably, as I am not a deck builder, but like I said, I will pass that info onto my contractor. He seems pretty competent and should know what you mean.
Am still wondering about how hard it will be to maintain the rich dark brown color. As I understand it, I can spray some sealer on it every 6months or so and it should keep looking close to new. Not sure if that is accurate.

Most all my ipe projects are done with 1x6 over 16'' on center joists with construstion adhesive. I dont go more than a 6'joist span, the frame has to be very secure.

In your pictures the lower deck is butting up to a stone walk way this area should have floor vents, in the area 9' high the stone skirting must have vents as well. Air in Air out cross ventalation. The little gap inbetween the decking will not provide this.Belive me ipe will not put up with a non vented frame.
Most all the box stores sell solid brass floor vents,ya know the ones for inside that pass the heat/air, I remove operation parts and just install the vent. The regular metal vents will work most always we paint them black.
With the stone skirting the vents can be handled several ways.
I build coats with twp 100 series,this takes time and work the more coats the longer it takes to set up. Your Contractor is right most Wallets dont keep up the finish. John

No wood deck probably looks as good as the day it was finished. But ipe is closest. If you are dilligent and keep up with the maintenance, ipe can retain it's color pretty well.

Garape is a much lighter shaded hardwood.

Thanks!
John: I will make sure of aqequite ventilation under and sides of decking. If I understand you correctly, you are saying that any trapped moisture situation will cause my ipe to warp or rot. Correct? Prolly also could grow mold and fungi. I'll do what I can, but my problem is that I need to build something under the deck, at least partially, to shed water. Wife wants to be able to walk under deck and into house without getting drenched. Thats gonna be a fun problem to solve. :)

Are you saying that you recommend install with clips and glue? Or did you mean screw and glue straight down with plugs?

dooer: what "maintainence" do you recommend? I'm looking for something that can be done over a weekend twice a year. I'm 45 and in reasonably good shape, plus I actually love doing maintainence to house, garden, computers, motorcycles...you name it. Its a calming influence I think.

Put in rebar yesterday, commin along. Pouring footing Monday morning!
No TV for a while :( Darn Sat TV installer put cable just a few inches underground, my first lesson on the bobcat ripped em'all straight out and cut in half.

Here is a link that might be useful:

I think I see now this project is actually one deck. No garage doors and the project will be completly open in the frount. Mabey

Ipe wont rot,mold wont hurt it,warping to major will go on without cross ventalation. Its hard to tell how the outside of your project is going to end up from the comp makeup.

Dry under = framing with fall,plywood on the joist installed with fall to the front,tourchdown modified roof stringers lay in the direction of the fall screw the decking to the stringers.
Do Not Use The Clips At All.

Man it you havent figured all this out by now with the rebar in place I sugesst you stop right now, get a total plan. J.

Hey John, thanks again for the advice. :)
Like I said earlier, I am not building this myself. We have designs and construction drawings. I did those drawings in Google Sketchup to show the basic ideas to the contractor and my wife.
I just wanted to see if some seasoned pros like yourself had any recommendations such as the ones you gave me. My contractor is aware of all these things and has built ipe decks before, Its just me (the "wallet" ) as you say, who wants to learn about the decisions my contractor is making or be better informed when he asks me which way would I like to go.

Sounds like screws is the way to fly, and thats an easy decision for me as I dont mind the regular interval holes over the decking. I think it looks nice, believe it or not. :) The clincher is that my contractor says it will be cheaper.

Yes, use the brown headcote SS screws. You will hardly notice them.

For maintenace, at least once a year do a complete cleaning and seal. Possibly only 6 months the first year.

Mark

Thanks, dooer! much appreciated!

Concerning ipe and cupping. A good friend built an ipe deck 4 years ago here in Santa Barbara; and although it is gorgeous, I have noticed some "cupping" (the edges curve upward noticeably). She used 1x6 ipe and the clips. I dont know her contractor and cant vouch for adequite ventilation either. So it could be moisture. I was wondering if the clips had anything to do with that or anything else to look out for to try and avoid that? I wont be using clips on mine as previously meantioned. :) So it would be great to know that.

Here is a link that might be useful: {{!gwi}}

Bluntly put, clips suck! They really don't have enough strength to keep the Ipe from moving.

We use 5/4x6 for our decking. It tends to cup much less than the 1x6. However, it will check more if not treated properly. The checking is not a structural issue, though.

For a fastener-free surface, I have been using Deck-Grabber for years. It's not cheap, but the floor looks like an interior wood floor when completed.

Jeff
www.thedeckpros.com

I'm with Jeff on all of those items except the Deck-Grabber, which I have not used.

Checking has not been a issue for us. Yes it exists, but the grain is so tight that you cannot see the checks unless you get on your hands and knees. Railing caps, it is a little more visable.

Mark