if you dump all the water out on the ground it kills the mosquito larva. If you do it every week on the same day you should not have a problem with mosquito going all the way from egg to adult. It should take them more than a week to go from egg to adult. here is off the internet. The egg, larvae and pupae stages depend on temperature and species characteristics as to how long it takes for development. For instance, Culex tarsalis might go through its life cycle in 14 days at 70 F and take only 10 days at 80 F. Also, some species have naturally adapted to go through their entire life cycle in as little as four days or as long as one month. You can also skim the egg rafts off the surface with a fine net. feeder goldfish will eat those that hatch in clear water that is not replaced such as rain water collectors. Hopefully you have a garden for that great fertilizer water.

Hello Gordon. Sorry to get back to you so late. Long winter. Fred's recipe for bog garden soil follows. He is a regular contributor to this forum and though I don't know the man personally, he seems a thoughtful and intelligent person. I don't think he'd mind me cutting and pasting his recipe that I found from an earlier posting. Here it is... Creating an artificial bog garden Strange as it may sound the first step to building a bog garden, dig a hole! The area can be whatever shape you like about 18 24 inches deep and slightly raised from the surrounding bed area to keep runoff from entering the bog (this is explained shortly). Locate the bog garden where it will get full sun at least half the day, preferably afternoon sun. The worst part is done! Now line the hole with rubber pond liner. DonÂt worry if there are sharp roots etc. that could puncture the liner. A few leaks do not matter. Begin filling the bog with the following combination: add 1 bale (4cuft) of sphagnum peat, mix in 100lbs of silica sand and a big mess of conifer needles (white pine is my favorite). Add rain, distilled, or dehumidifier water till saturated. This is the second hardest job because peat is extremely hydrophobic. Repeat above until the bog is full and fully saturated. Sculpt the "dirt" such that it is low in the center and higher around the edges. Because it is saturated and all the air is worked out, it will not settle. If you wish to plant a Fen type garden (ph neutral and slightly more nutrient rich) add 50 Â 100 lbs of calcium rich lime in place of the conifer needles. Most species of Cypripedium will prefer this to the bog garden. I made the mistake of using crushed oyster shell, it added too much saltÂso donÂt use this for calcium! Time to plant! Place plants that like more water near the center of the bog where it is low and plants that like less water around the edges. This works well because the edges dry out far faster than the center. Be patient! A bog garden takes at least 2 years to become well established as a mini ecosystem. DonÂt pull any weeds that you are not sure are weeds! Some really good stuff can come to your garden from peat bales. But keep seed heads of sedges and other more aggressive plants trimmed so more tender plants will have a better chance of survival. The cardinal rule! NEVER EVER EVER WATER WITH ANYTHING OTHER THAN RAIN, DISTILLED, OR DEHUMIDIFIER WATER! TAP WATER WILL KILL A BOG GARDEN IN A SEASON AS WILL ANY SORT OF FERTILIZER! Plants suitable for bog gardens and sources There are a number of plants that are suitable for bog gardens, many are readily available others far too scarce. Listed here are some of the plants I have had success with and enjoy in my garden. Remember when looking for plants, be sure to buy from sources that propagate their stock or (in the case of orchids) are from documented salvage operations. These are plants that were removed from habitats just before the bulldozers come in to build the next strip mall. This list is NOT exhaustive and you may have luck with plants I have failed with or think IÂm crazy for planting "that". CARNIVOROUS PLANTS Sundews, Drosera filiformis, D. rotudifolia, and D. intermedia Sarracenia Species especially purpurea and those that produce best pitchers in spring. Venus Fly Trap Dionea muscipula. IÂve found it reasonably hardy here (my plants have survived -5F) UNCOMON PLANTS Bog rosemary Andromeda and Heather/Heath Caluna species. Sedges and rushes especially corkscrew rush and cotton grass (sedge).Be careful some of these can get out of hand! Gentians, great fall flowers. Patience is required to get them established. Blue and yellow eyed grasses and smaller members of the Iris (Iridaceae) family. Call me crazy but no bog garden would be complete without Poison sumac (yes it is in my garden). Most wonderful fall color, but donÂt touch! Orchids Cypripedium or ladyÂs Slippers, C. acaule (pink) for the bog garden, C. reginae (showy), and C. candidum (white) for the "Fen" and C. pubescens (Yellow) and itÂs relatives for a partly sunny spot in the Perennial bed. Fall blooming Spiranthes or LadyÂs Tresses, Small, fragrant, and a great companion to fringed gentian. These self seed in the bog! Platanthera species, the fringed orchids, especially P. ciliaris (yellow) and blephariglottis (white). There is also P. psycodes (purple) but it is NOT an easy plant to grow! Calopogon tuberosa, the grass pink. Showy and easy, Epipactis gigantea, giant hellborine, great if you can find a source, Dactylorhiza spp. (European) a good garden candidate, and Bletilla spp. A great garden subject needing no special care. Sources See the web sites for the above at www.orchidmall.com click on sources! If you have questions feel free to contact me at: fbess7600@msn.com.

Yes you can grow 3 plants in there but as they say they like a deep root system so first drill alot of hole in the bottom of the pool and put it on the place you want to grow it but first somewhat loosen the soil before you place the pool on top of the place that will encourage the roots to go thru the holes at the bottom of the pool then this is the critical part do not put any gravel or stone in the bottom of the pool but fill it with 1/4 bagged composted manure+1/4 spagnumn peat,+1/4 of your own compost or some great garden type soil ,+ 1/4 or a little bit more of perlite which is good for drainage and air space for good healthy root growth add about 1/2 to cup of lime,about a quart of granite or basalt dust or sand from a rock quary pretty cheap about 2 dollars for 5 gallons they have a huge pile of it from crushing and snapping there stones its in there way a couple of cups of organic time release fertilizer 3/4/5 or 4/4/4 or 3/4/6 ,blood meal if you have it they love nitrigen,fish bone meal is great it has lots of phosphorous to get it off to a great start and sets the blossoms mix all these ingredients together throughly and put in the pool and you will have fantastic pumpkins but be sure to put alot of hole hopefully all at least 1/2 in bottom of pool set on some loose soil with somewhat good drainage and plant them and eventually the roots will work there way thru the big hole into the soil below the pool great idea try put a little fertilizer under the pool before you put it down and fill it with soil good luck I think you will have success

A heater does have code requirements for indoor installations but it isn't banned/forbidden. Typical requirements include raising it off the floor so if a gas leak did develop, since NG and propane are heavier and tend to sit low near the floor, the elevation would prevent the heater, if fired up or if it has a pilot, would make an explosion less likely, being on a fireproof platform, venting exhaust gasses outside and away from windows to prevent CO2 accumulation, and providing for an adequate incoming air supply. Local codes will vary but heaters can be kept in an enclosed room. Ask yourself, where is the home heating system kept? Its a very similar situation. Boilers and furnaces are in the house, a form of enclosure. Scott