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Help: removing laminate countertops

16 years ago

We're about to put in granite countertops, but to keep it in budget, we need to remove our existing laminate counterops ourselves. We're relatively handy, but haven't done this before. Can any of you please point me toward a DIY site that will tell us how to approach this task? OR if you've done it yoursef, I'd love to hear your experience first hand. Thanks so much!

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Comments (2)

bob_cville
16 years ago
The key is figuring out how they are attached. The most likely answer (and the answer in my particular case) is that in the top corner of each cabinet there will be a triangular block of wood (or sometimes plastic). Through each of these there will be a screw going up into the countertop. Remove all of these screws and pull up on the outer edge of the countertop, and the top should feel loose. If not look for more screws. Also if you have a small formica backsplash attached to the counter, and it is caulked to the wall, carefully cut the caulk with a utility knife.

Good luck, it really ought to be pretty easy, Although if the installer decided to glue it to the cabinets you could be in for a not-fun time.
nightowlrn
16 years ago
Melissa, we did the same thing you are doing. We expected ours to be attached as bob said; however, they weren't attached at the corners. We just had to give them a pull up and ... Poof! They were attached occasionally with large staple-type nails. We did get a surprise to see they were screwed into the box that holds our built-in ovens. We had to remove the ovens to get to those screws.

We did think we might need a circular saw at one of the deep corners, but we didn't.

We did ours a few days early, so we laid one back on to give us somewhat of a counter while we waited. They were quite light and, for us, it was an easy way to save a few bucks.
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Put TWO coats of contact cement on BOTH surfaces, let them dry between coats and let the 2nd coat dry about 30 minutes before laminating. Laminate the edges and sides first, trim them flush with the top surface, then do the top. Use a bunch of skinny dowels laid across the top as spacers while you position the big section of laminate. Use a roller to apply pressure over the entire surface while laminating. Roll from the center toward the edges. Pressure is the KEY! The other key is to use plenty of contact cement (why I always put 2 coats on both sides) and let it dry properly before sticking, about 30 minutes at room temp. After rolling it out with lots of pressure, use the trim router with a flush bit (not a bevel) and then use a very fine metal file to break the edges. Laminate edges are as sharp as a razor and need to be filed. Also the trim router does not get it perfectly flush, so the file is essential to getting the top edge flush with the side. If the top sticks proud at all, it will be a constant snag problem, and this causes delamination. Hold the file at the desired angle and draw it toward you, making sure the serrations on the file are turned the right way to remove material. Good Luck!
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Wilsonart HD has aluminum oxide in the top finish, making it much more scratch resistant than standard laminate. You've got a sample. Try to scratch it with normal use like dragging a coffee cup across it. It's tough as nails. That is why Wilsonart can offer a gloss finish in it without having the disclaimer that it is for a vertical surface only. Formica gets around the scratching on their gloss surfaces because that "vertical surface" disclaimer is in the fine print. People do the Blackstar Granite all the time on regular counters, and because it's Formica, yes, it will scratch a bit, and yes, if you have hard water, it will show water spots. So will granite. If you get anything shiny, it will show water spots if you have issues with your water. If you want a basic granite, you can get close to a HD laminate in pricing. If you want anything else, maybe not. It depends on your actual layout. Oh, and the Seaglass is only in the gloss finish, as far as I'm aware. That was how it was introduced anyway, and if they've changed that, I'm not aware of it.
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The glue they use to adhere the top to the cabinet is stronger joint than what is there in the top construction. Simply buy a demo crow bar and hammer it in between the blocks and counter NOT the block and the cabinet. It will easily break free. Particle board is weak and will splinter into pieces. If you have a saw you can cut out the center of the counter giving better access to the blocks. Also you would be separating smaller sections. Fix your valve you can flood your entire home.
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We have Ikea cabinets in our utility room which has our laundry and hot water heater. We also used their laminate countertops--no pictures since I'm at work, but they've held up without any issues for the past 16 years. I make soap, start my seeds, etc. down there and those counters have seen some action. If you drop anything heavy., it'll dent enough that you'll see the wood material below but it would require some force. I'd go with something very interesting in the room, either a cabinet color or floor tile that will make you happy every time you see it.
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