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Porches & Decks

corner posts needed on railing?

14 years ago

First time visiting here so please excuse any ignorance or repeated question. ;-)

I'm not getting a permit ("rebuilding" an existing deck from 36" below grade on up) but I'm trying to adhere to the strictest codes I can find online. For the railing, what I'm seeing called for is un-notched 4x4s spaced a maximum of 6 feet.

My question is, does there need to be a corner post or am I ok to hold place posts a foot or two from the corners on each side, with mechanical fasteners holding the top and bottom rails together at the corners?

I'm having a hard time visualizing how else to make externally mounted, un-notched posts work without placing them next to each other on each side of the corner.

Thanks in advance.

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Comments (7)

john_hyatt
14 years ago
Sounds like it would work,there is the matter of the space between them but Im sure you can figure something out . J.
brooklyndecks
14 years ago
I prefer to set my posts inside the substructure, blocked in tight to the joists. Can't beat it for strength. I used to mount my rail posts on the outside, and would set them close to each other at the corner. Not touching, but close. I suppose that you can do it as you wrote, but I preferred the posts by the corner for more support for the railing cap.

steve
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ptony101
14 years ago
Hi Ya Think,

This doesn't address your question about the corners but, FWIW, when I was researching my deck project, I learned that one of the weaknesses of railing post connections is dependence on the connection of the rim board to the joist ends (usually just nailed into the end grain of the joist). One way around that is to put the posts inside the structure and block them in really well, as suggested and practiced by Brooklyn Decks.

If that isn't compatible with your design, a solution that looked good to me is to use brackets to tie the posts and rim board securely into the joist structure. I found two commercial products designed for this purpose: DeckLok brackets (www.deck-lok.com) and Simpson StrongTie p/n HD2AHDG (www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/DTT2Z-HD2AHDG.asp). Both websites have illustrations that describe the problem and solution better than I can in words.

Some codes may not require this strength but if you're looking for the ultimate build, this might be of interest.

Gook Luck.
ya_think
Original Author
14 years ago
Thanks all - I've rethought and will put them inside. Solves the corner problem.

ptony - Thanks, yes I came across those brackets, too. Unfortunately I accidentally bought HD2A, and the place I bought it doesn't have the HDG ones. I can't find them anywhere locally, so I might be stuck having to order them.
ptony101
14 years ago
Could you get away with using a barrier film like Vycor with the standard HD2A's?
ya_think
Original Author
14 years ago
Dunno. Simpson told me not to use it outside. I ended up ordering a newer Simpson product, DTT2Z from HD. It definitely looks lighter duty, but it's specifically made for the new codes so it should be fine. At $14 for a two-pack with hardware verus about $10 apiece without, I'm not objecting to the price either.

Thanks for your suggestions.

Here is a link that might be useful: DTT2Z
ptony101
14 years ago
Yep, I saw the DTT2Z on their website. Does look interesting, especially price-wise, like you say.

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