Antss....not trying to say anything. I said it. Don't understand why clarification needed. I've said 105F is warm water....probably cooler than you'd use in the sink if you were hand washing. It isn't hot enough for the detergent to do what it's supposed to do in the machine. I would not run ANY DW cycle at such a low temperature. If the machine I own delivered only that, I would regard it as broken. In fact, that's why I just replaced my machine. The relay controlling the heating element failed and there was no capability of heat-boost to an acceptable temperature. (And fixing that 9-year-old machine would have cost too much.) I was left with washing temperature of about 105F, terrible cleaning, and no drying. The OP stated that his hottest wash temperature was 105 which I said was "ridiculous" because it is. If OP's machine is not capable of boosting to at least 120F, I regard that as unacceptable....which is what I said. OP has not responded. I suspect he does, in fact, have a machine that is capable of heating the wash-water above 105 but the heating element is not working properly....but don't know. 120 is the typical "normal" temp dishwashers use. Except for OP's machine, I am aware of none that will not do this in the "normal" cycle. 140-145 is the typical "hot wash" boost, available on many/most machines and gives better cleaning -- of course at the expense of more energy use. 155+ is what DW's typically offer in their "sani-rinse" cycles. Wash temperature is lower than that but the final rinse is boosted way up.

(just to give credit where credit is due, this wasn't my idea or anything, it came up in a thread not too long ago and this was the solution that i thought seemed best/easiest.)

You asked: "what cutting tools do you have at your disposal -- router, cirular saw, reciprocating saw (Sawzall)?" Don't have a router but I would be able to borrow one if that's my best option. I do have a large circular saw, and I would love the excuse to get a small one if that would be a better choice. I'd also totally go for buying a sawzall if that's my best choice. Basically if you can give me an idea as to what is my best option, I'll make it happen. Here are the pics I just took. As you can see, we've repainted the cabinets since the first pics were taken. Also I didn't realize until I took these pics just how much dust and sawdust ended up in the cabinets from the big bathroom remodel we just did (shared wall and back of cabinets is not closed). Here is a front view just for orientation. The cut would need to go between the two sets of hinges, close to the outer edge of the right hinges: There is one solid piece of wood that goes horizontally across the top - you can see the line marking the bottom of that strip at just about the top of the drawer. Then the vertical piece between the two cabinets, where the hinges are located, is one solid piece down to the "floor" of the cabinets. Finally, there is another horizontal piece, which is mounted so that top of that piece is even with the "floor" of the cabinets. This next picture shows the detail of the inside of the cabinet we're removing: It appears as if the floor of the cabinets are one solid piece of plywood, and the wall between them is just one piece of plywood that is sitting on the floor/bottom. I can't see any screws/nails, but if I reach under the cabinets where that piece is located, I can feel what is probably a screw. I'm kinda presuming that I'll not be able to get this out without destroying it, so I'm prepared to put in a new "wall" here. It's not super clear in the pic (my camera doesn't take the best closeup) but there is an angled groove in the bottom front piece to either side of the verticle dividing piece. I know NOTHING of cabinetmaking, so I presume that's a chanel of some sort for some kind of connector (screw, whatever). Just for reference, here is the same basic area but from the opposite direction -- looking at it from the side of the cabinet that we'll be keeping (under the sink). Note that the board that divides the two cabinets is even with the one that we're taking out, and so will definitely be lost (or need to be moved) when we cut that cabinet out.

On that Amazon page you linked, in the Q&A section, there are 2 questions having to do with putting them in the DW. Read those, or post your own question there. It looks like the positioning in the cutlery tray will not be an issue, though someone wrote about scratches from the DW (that person likely has a DW with a cutlery basket where the utensils are all rubbing against each other, which would not be the case with the Miele cutlery tray - one of the reasons I prefer the tray). (I would actually be more concerned about some of the reviews which say that the knife design means the knives will fall off the plate.)