It depends ..... From another post: "How large a container needs to be, or CAN be, and how much soil a planting needs/will tolerate before drainage & saturation is an issue depends on the 3-way relationship between plant mass, container size, and soil type. We often concern ourselves with "over-potting" (using a container that is too large), but "over-potting" is a term that arises from a lack of basic knowledge about the 3-way relationship noted, which should logically determine appropriate container size(s). It's often parroted that you should only move up one size in containers when "potting-up". The reasoning is the soil will remain wet too long and cause root rot issues, but it is the size/mass of the material and soil type/composition that determines both the upper & lower limits of appropriate container size - not consecutive volume progression. Plants grown in slow soils need to be grown in containers with smaller soil volumes so that the plant can use water quickly, allowing air to return to the soil. This (smaller soil volumes) and the root constriction that accompanies it will cause plants to extend and gain o/a mass much more slowly - a bane if rapid growth is the goal - a boon if growth restriction and a compact plant are what you have you sights set on. Conversely, rampant growth can be had by growing in very large containers and in very fast soils where frequent watering and fertilizing is required - so it's not that plants rebel at being potted into very large containers or volumes of soil per se, but rather, they rebel at being potted into very large containers with a large volume of soil that is too slow and water-retentive. We know that there is an inverse relationship between soil particle size and the height of the PWT in containers. As particle size increases, the height of the PWT decreases, until at about a particle size of just under 1/8 inch, soils will no longer hold perched water. If there is no perched water, the soil is ALWAYS well aerated, even when the soil is at container capacity (saturated). So, if you aim for a soil composed primarily of particles >1/16", there is no upper limit to container size. The lower size limit will be determined by the soil volume's ability to furnish water enough to sustain the plant between irrigations." You can grow a very small plant in a very large container if the soil holds little or no perched water (saturated soil). Pine shavings or small pieces of any wood product other than conifer bark are not such a good idea on the bottom of containers. They break down quickly & tend to cause varying degrees of N immobilization, which increases as particle size decreases. If you want a wood product on the bottom of the container to 'take up space', large pine bark landscape mulch is best. Don't use these products, packing peanuts, soda bottles, bark, wood chips, or other, thinking that it is an aid to drainage - it is not. The practice simply raises the level of saturated soil in the container - so its value lies wholly in the fact that it decreases the volume of soil it takes to fill a container and can lighten the container's o/a weight. Al

We have a 60" long x 18" wide overhang with our island. Our granite guy said we didn't need to support it, but I beg to differ and supported it just in case. We drilled a 3/4" plywood sheet (just smaller than the entire island)into the top of the cabinets and then routed in 1/2" steel bars (these were also just smaller than the island) and drilled these into the plywood. The granite was laid on top (and glued/epoxied). Although you can't see the plywood unlesss you bend over or are sitting under the overhang, we chose to cover the edges of the plywood with thin strips of wood that matches our cabinets, so it looks like the support extends as part of the cabinets. We did all this because we wanted a clean look with no corbels, etc. It is great (I had to stand on the island to change a light bulb) and I am very happy that I chose to support it...now I don't have to worry!

Hmm - if it does not include meals out on the road, our monthly for 4 adults is about $300. We could do much better. We grocery shop once per month or less since we found a discount supermarket and a discount butcher. A small freezer holds enough for more than a month. Shopping once per month cuts down ENORMOUSLY on impulse buys, saving us hundreds per month. Also save us about 8 hours of time simply driving and shopping. The selection is not as broad as our SuperHumongousMarket, but we don't get all that other stuff, and those places are simply getting too big to navigate. One store takes up as much space as an entire strip-mall of 20 years ago. Stop-and-Shop and BigY have done such a good job of putting their high priced premium items in front and scattering the necessities, that we simply can't be bothered with the new huge stores. The discount butcher has commercial bags of prepared frozen veggies at about 1.05 $/lb, so meals are easier for our adult kids to prepare. Shake out veggies into a Corning dish and microwave for 6 minutes. Ginger drink - 1+ tsp ground ginger 1 cup sugar 1/2 cup white vinegar water to 1/2 gallon Our kids like this. The vinegar somehow makes it taste carbonated. Vary the ginger a bit according to how strong it is. A quart (?) cannister of powdered ginger is about $4 US

Match the older floors. However, if there's some overwhelming reason not to (for example, a wood species that's not available any more), a traditional method is to use a patterned border of light and dark wood between the two rooms. Here are some ideas from a google search https://oshkoshdesigns.com/products/floors/border/wood-floor-borders/