Thanks guys!! Yes I don't know what to do which is why I posted here. I have zero exprience remodeling bathrooms and I don't know much about cost effectiveness. If cost wasn't a factor, I would hire a contractor to do all the work, rip out the tub, replumb, rebuild the surround and have a snazzy ceramic tile pattern done. I was wondering about the quality of a reglazing project. I can't take the tub out as is, the behemouth would have to make two turns and navigate over a bannister. They must have built the house around the tub, lol! I asked my neighbor who had his bathroom redone, and he said they broke his tub up to get it out. Another friend who redid his farmhouse bathroom said he broke his tub up with a sledgehammer. My neighbor said his remodeler used a blowtorch. It's not that I have ZERO household skills, but when we're talking sledgehammers and blowtorches . . . I might be able to get help getting the thing out, but then I would be left with the problem of filling in the hole. So far, I haven't found anyone who can reinstall a bathtub and surround for a reasonable cost. I absolutely cannot go over 4 K. Less would be better. So the reglazing or plastic insert seem like good ideas because they are not so invasive. With these old houses, you tear something out to solve one problem and uncover another, lol!! The tub is all grey and pitted at the bottom, and has lots of rust around the holes for the old fixtures. Looks really bad. But I'm most concerned about the plastic wall surround panels coming unglued and the caulk between the wall and the tub getting moldy. I bleach it almost every other week, but the fact that it molds up that fast has me worried. In their new house, my parents have a tub and surround all molded from one piece of plastic. It is very basic but easy to clean. I am worried about just "covering up" a problem which could harbor mold. I'll see about getting my friend to come by with his camera. He's coming by to take a look at the place but not until after he finishes a grad class he is taking, so it will be after next week. This friend is very handy and he's already remodeled one house and is in the middle of his second. He said he would help, but he does so much for me already, I am having a hard time thinking of a good swap for all of this! I already ply him with baked goods and jam!! He's married so his wife takes pretty good care of him. He's a former student of mine, so I did help in a lot back in the day, but the student has surpassed the master at this point!!

Tonight DH and I discussed how we want the contractor to finish the tub and walk in closet bumpout. And to what degree we want it completed. DH is an itch about doing things so-so, therefore it will be better to add the tiles ourselves, and do the painting as well. BUT, the electrical, the plumbing, the windows, the removal of the old pair of windows in the bedroom to allow entry into the new closet, that will be framed and cut by the contractor. Also, drywall and taped, but we will finish with a skim of plaster--or so DH thinks. I am ready to leave the closet drywall plain. I am fed UP with DUST. In the tub bumpout, I've decided I want it all beadboard...roof and walls. I think there is a synthetic beadboard mfg by a company with a name beginning with "A"...am I right? That would be very very water proof or moisture resistant. Of course the contractor will do the foundation, the framing, the roof as well. Our windows will be up high near the little rafter "tails" that stick out all around the house. The clerestory "lights" will be NON opening, and made of Lexan. DH says that if you make them less than 24 inches (they will be about 16) you do not have to allow for expansion/contraction of the Lexan. So each small panel can be caulked in and screwed down. That will give us natural light all along our northern exposure, and require no window treatments. I want these Lexan panels in the walkin closet also. I already have the wire closet kit to make high and low hanging racks and such.In fact, I might even get the contractor to install them for me. The top shelf rack will come about the height of the window bottoms. The roofline will just extend at its current angle, and we will lose a little closet height near the outer new wall...but not enough to create a problem. Having the "lights" up high will really take advantage of ambient natural light coming from the north, which is true and consistent all year long, winter and summer. For closet doors, I plan to get two pairs of bifold with frosted glass in the top panels, and louvered fixed shutters in the bottom panels. They can be installed later by us, because the brand I want is special order from Lowes. I also already have the tub fixtures/plumbing stuff ready to be installed. And the two short sconces and one longer double ended sconce for the sink, and the towel bars and racks and ONE grab bar. I plan on more of these grab bars, and will ask the contractor to place a lot of blocking in the walls while they are open. I am so excited. I've tried not to get my hopes up, this might not work out, but OH BOY I"M READY TO TAKE A TUB BATH. If the man is a professional, this job should not take very long, should it?

I could be wrong (but I doubt it), but the 72" x 42" tub noted above, if properly installed, will take up more space than 72" x 42" (see installation guide). I suggest the OP first determine if a two person tub is a need or a desire. If it is a need, then she should seek advice for a solution from the "design architect" or a local licensed architect if the "design architect" is not licensed. From what I can tell from the fragment of the bathroom's floor plan provided, it is not designed as a bathroom fitting for such a grandiose tub. It appears that there was a communication failure in both directions.

Moral of the story here is everyone has different wants. Back in the 2000's all I would see are jetted drop-in tubs, so I perceived those to be "the best that rich people bought" lol. Gotta take a step back and figure out your personal wants and how you'll realistically use I agree for mobility, drop-in is much easier to use Heat retention, I'm still voting for cast iron. I've owned insulated fiberglass with jets, used just about everything in between, then own a freestanding cast iron now. Realistically, you draw a bath then sit in it for maybe half an hour. I've seen fiberglass/acrylic units with heat pads in them (...why?) to combat this, or you do what everyone has done for hundreds of years and turn the hot valve on low. My last fiberglass tub, the tub would feel a hair colder than the water as it cooled down at the end. My current iron tub doesn't do that, seems to maintain temp longer, but again metal=conduction. Could think resale, or maybe you'll barely ever use it so it's more for looks. Can't go wrong if you do the right thing for you