Leaky shut-off valve

14 years ago

The shut-off valve leads to outside faucet and there is a pretty steady drip. Below zero temps tonight so had better fix it today.

Where do I start?

Another question: What is "?" in the picture for?

Thanks,

pg

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Comments (7)

User
14 years ago
The "?" is a blind plug for a small diameter water liine to a swamp cooler, ice maker, or other device. If it's not leaking there LEAVE IT ALONE.

If your leak is coming from the shaft that the blue knob is on try working that knob a few tines and snug (NOT tighten) up the packing nut (#2 in your pic). Make sure the shaft still turns smooth and is not binding.

If that is where it's leaking and snugging the packing nut doesn't resolve the problem the packing can be replaced.

If it's leaking from either solder joint best to replace that valve with a 1/4 turn ball valve. That job requires plumbing and soldering skills and tools you may not have.
homebound
14 years ago
I thought the "?" was a bleeder w/cap.

Anyway, presumably the drip is coming out of the stem. If so, then just tighten the stem packing nut (#2) just a bit until the drip stops. You can hold #1 in place with another wrench while you do it, but it's not critical for this task.
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Those are standard compression-style shut-off's. Inside the body of the valve is a neoprene washer that is forced against a seat when you turn the oval handle. That washer is what stops the water from reaching your taps. Directly below the handle is a hexnut and the rotating stem runs through it. Inside the hexnut is a compressable seal. It's job is to keep water from getting past the stem and I suspect that it is not doing its job. The hex nut can be tightened to put more pressure on the seal and make it do its job. Don't go crazy with the tightening job. Just turn it a bit at a time until the leakage stops. If you overtighten it, you can damage it. If it has been damaged, then it needs to be replaced. Teflon tape or any other tape is pointless, IMO. It's either tighten the hex nut or replace the seal and tighten the hex nut or replace the entire valve. If you end up replacing the valve, buy the quarter-turn ball-type valves.
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pickler_gardener
Original Author
14 years ago
Thanks for the fast answers!

There is no visible leak. It just doesn't completely shut off the water to the outside faucet.
homebound
14 years ago
Proper description is "Stop and waste valve":

I would shut it off, then drain it (open the plug, catch water with small bucket), then put the plug back on. After that, check to see if it's leaking. The drip you saw may have been water past the "seat" that's supposed to be drained when closed.

Here's info from the website:

Typical installations would include applications where shut off is required in-line. If the line they control needs to be drained when the flow is shut off, they may include an auxiliary opening on their side, just past the valve seat. This opening is controlled by a cap screw. When the valve is also closed, the cap may be opened to drain the water out of the non- pressure side of the line beyond that point. This type of valve is sometimes called a Stop and Waste as well as a Stop and Drain. The valve must be mounted on the low end of the run for the pipe to drain properly.

* Allows draining of non-pressure side of the valve without removing it from the line
* Meets NSF approved Low Lead Standards
* For use with water, oil, or air
* Heavy Duty Brass Construction
* Cast Iron Handle
* Solder Connection
* Fitting Name : Valve
* MFG Model # : 105-603HC
* MFG Part # : 105-603HC

link:
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xh7/R-100152064/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
User
14 years ago
If " it just doesn't completely shut off the water to the outside faucet" that is another matter entirely.

You'd have to unscrew the knob a turn and then remove the #1 hex in your pic to remove the shaft. Then replace the washer in there. The washer will be held in by a screw in the center.

Can be tricky to do on an old valve cause usually they've never been disturbed. You also have to be sure you don't apply too much force to the valve body and crack the solder.

Go to a Home Depot and have an apron person show you. If you feel confident then give it a try. You'll have to shut off the water and relieve the pressure at the valve. If there's no close way to isolate the valve and you screw it up you'll be without water in the house till you get someone in there to replace the valve.

Not hard to do... just warning you what can happen in advance
pickler_gardener
Original Author
14 years ago
Tightening #2 while holding #1 in place did the trick! It took incredible pressure to just barely move it and I almost gave up. I wedged a large wrench against the wall to hold #1 in place.

I have other plumbing problems, but am done for the day.

Thanks so much!!!
cruzinpattis
9 years ago
Searching for help for my leaky pipe

Have a similar leaky water shutoff valve...can't find a packing nut to fit...too old.
What can I do?

Leaky shut-off valve

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Leaky shut-off valve

Comments (7)

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homebound

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pickler_gardenerOriginal Author

homebound

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pickler_gardenerOriginal Author

cruzinpattis

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pickler_gardener
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