Well... you're one zone warmer than me, so maybe my suggestion isn't necessary, but what I would do is get those huge decorative pots that you like, set them where you want them, fill them with a good, durable medium... and then dig a hole and insert the potted tree or perennial that you want for your centerpiece. It can be removed and either brought inside, or placed inside a garage for better winter protection during its dormancy, but it could still be used in spring and summer as the main attraction of the huge pot. Then, around that potted and sunk centerpiece, I'd plant a nice assortment of annuals or perennials you don't mind losing... or a nice ground cover, or something to trail over the edge. So, in essence, you'd be able to lift out and change up the main planting of the large pot, but never have to move the pot or worry about the plant dying. I'd probably go for those fake clay looking composite type pots, material wise... I think they'd probably last longer, and wouldn't crack like clay. I don't know if there's a material that's freeze proof. Some of those larger pots are rather costly, so it's probably wise to research a little and find out what material can stand up to your climate well. All I'm finding are frost proof and frost resistant planters from Google... I'm not sure I helped you, at all... but good luck in your search! Another thought is to place the larger pots on movable plant dollies with wheels, so you can move them into protection if you need to.

I'd not add mulch if you are keeping the fabric plus rocks. I'd worry that the roots will struggle as it is for oxygen. Soil gas exchange is necessary for a healthy rhizosphere; roots and microorganisms emit CO2 which needs to be able to freely exit the soil. Oxygen from the atmosphere replaces the CO2 within the soil's pore spaces...if not impeded by layers upon layers. A healthy mulch layer of an organic substance such as wood chips, bark nuggets, or pine straw is considered best for moderating soil temperatures, conserving moisture, and enhancing (even feeding) a vital soil microorganism population. That's the kind of soil environment that encourages a vigorous, strong root system. I'd plan on covering the shrubs for the first couple of years, using a woven material of some kind, no plastic. Avoid excess fertilization all of the time but never fertilize past the mid summer. Same goes for pruning.....avoid any growth promoting procedure past mid summer. Another good tip for promoting robust root systems more likely to withstand severe cold is to water intelligently. Avoid at all costs the kind of watering that encourages weak, shallow roots. I don't know how you can judge the moisture level of the soil and root ball under weed barrier and rocks, though. If you live in an area that experienced severe winter temperatures this past winter, please know that there won't be anything you can do under those conditions. But those times are the exception (we hope) and shouldn't dictate whether we want to 'push the envelope ' or not.

Paul, I can't seem to get a pot big enough anywhere. I bought one at home depot yesterday and it is just a little to small. I got the palm in the garage with the root ball wrapped in plastic and i put some water on the roots to keep it moist. The temp in the garage is at 60 with high humidity. Tomorrow i am going to try this nursery over here called sids and see if they got somthing that will work. As far as that goes the palm looks great! I sprayed the leaves with wiltproof to protect it from moisture loss and to help with the transplant shock...once i get it into a pot LOL. I will keep everyone updated.

Thank you for the kind respones. "Per code there should be a line stop valve inside the house before the line drops into the vented crawl space. In winter the line stop is closed and the hose bibb is left open so that if any water should happen to leak past the line stop it could still drain out through the hose bibb. Care should be taken to insure that the horizontal line in the crawl space is properly supported by pipe hangers to insure it will maintain a downward pitch and not sag." Thanks for pointing me in the right direction Lazypup, your very knowledgable. I am young and inexperienced but trying to do the best i can. This is my Mom's home and she is a parapalegic, so I try to fix what I can for her and if I can't do it I make sure she don't get ripped off by repairmen since she can't even acess the areas the work is in. I don't even think the plumbing meets code. It's over a hundred year old house with many additions and jerry-rigged workmanship. Had to insulate the pipes to stop them from freezing a few winters ago, but the last 2 winters where very mild. Majority of the plumbing is under the house in the crawl space. The copper pipes, pvc, and ducting are all barely hanging to the floor joists with rusty wire and nails. I spent countless days with a full repirator breathing mask clean this crawl space out. It was filled with trash, car parts, old waste building materials, and a bunch of mold rotted fiberglass insulation. It was a real pain, especially consider I had to crawl through holes at points only 2' x 2' wide! I think the previous occupants used the crawl space as a free landfill. The only 2 ways to shut off the water is either at the street or in the crawl space where the main water line comes out of the ground vertically rising to the plumbing in the floor joists. There is a very old gate valve in this main line and I have to crawl through 2 different holes in the labryinth that is my crawl space to the deepest part to shut off the water which is a big hassel. Whereas the pipe to the faucet is more easily acessible with minimal crawling so it would be nice to have a shut off valve prior to the outside bib. I like the idea of ball valves, thanks Kisu. I should probably have the gate valve at the main water line replaced with a ball valve as well. I want to have an encapsulated crawl space eventually, but I got huge water issues with runoff, yard grade, gutters, downspouts, leaky faucet, ect. Until i take care of exterior water issues there is really no point to addressing water and moisture problems in the crawl space. So that is why the crawl space is vented for now, but I digress off topic. "First off, there is no such thing as a "Freeze Proof hose bibb". They do make "Frost proof hose bibbs" which are a type of hydrant valve where the actual valving action takes place inside the house in the heated space but even that would not work in this situation." Thanks for setting me straight Lazypup. The frost proof faucet wouldn't work in this situation because the faucet's valve could be comprimsed being at relativly the same temp as outside in winter. So i should just have a traditional sillock bib on the exterior and have a ball valve in the interior prior to the bib. When winter comes close the ball valve and open the hose bibe to let the water drain out inbetween the stop valve and hose bib. Insulate the water lines in the crawl space and hope for no subzero temps this winter. Maybe I could have all this work done by winter and have the crawl space enclosed, but it doesn't seem likely. Sorry about being longwinded but the added explaination may help you guys help me understand the best potential solution.