20 mil is standard. Expect to pay more for 27/28 mil walls or floor, roughly 15% more for each unless the liner pattern is available as a special or promotional offer from the manufacturer.

If the walls are a little rough, the 27/28 mil wall has value. Sometimes wall foam is a must, Rough walls like those made of cement or those that have been patched will require it. Floors very rarely benefit.

The coping is fine in the picture. Unless you plan on redoing the deck, it will stay right where it is. If you should decide to re-pour the deck, the coping, upon the deck's removal may warp or bend since the old concrete is embedded inside some.

The older wood, if deteriorated badly can be removed and filled with sand and topped with self leveling caulk. This is a heck of a lot less costly. The caulk should last about five years before needing to be replaced.

A spray deck coating can be applied such as Kool Deck and similar type products that are much cooler on the feet.

With weeks of 20 degree weather in the winter, I recommend winterizing the pool lines and equipment rather than running the pump continuously. Cover it with a safety cover.

When the old liner is removed, and mold or algae seen on the floor or hopper should be sprayed with a water and Clorox to kill it prior to unboxing the new liner.

Ask away. We like questions!

Scott

Thank you Scott ! I had a local pool person come yesterday. We have used him for minor things only and I want to know the right things to ask.

He showed us the vinyl liners . They have 20 and 27 and a combo of 20/27. He said there are 5 Premier liners on special and that the 27 isn't extra if I get one of the 5. I like the really dark Dynastie/Blue Granite Super Max 27/27. He quoted $2850 and that would include everything to have the pool all the way back and filled and everything repaired etc that needs it as he is working. Ready to swim in when done.

As far as the deck he said they would clean it w/ very high water pressure. He said that prepares the surface to accept the coating. He didn't mention using Muriatic acid and I wonder if he should also use that to prepare the surface....I don't want to jump on him and question every move he makes :) He said they put glops of this( ???concrete )product on and then smooth it with trowels. It will be a color we choose and have texture....most likely a cream color. I know it isn't Cool Deck.

He told my husband that they were leaving the expansion joints alone. They are really deteriorated in some places, not all by any means. I just think they are unsightly. I have looked up how to replace them....here I go again my husband says :) Anyway it seems that the wood is removed and then foam core fillers are placed and then it is caulked with elastomeric caulk. Does that sound right ?

I just feel that if we are going to this expense then we should have it all look good.

If we shut off the pool pump the pool freezes solid thick enough that we can walk on it. We worried about this and thought this might be a contributing factor to the liner breaking down. So my question is if you " winterize the pool" how do you deal with the water freezing ?

I guess that is all for now. Thank you again for your answers...it really helps to have some one to ask. Caroline

A winterized liner pool has the water blown out of the lines and the lines are plugged so they now are sealed with air.

A main drain is simply blown and closed at the pad to trap air below the frost line.

The skimmer should have a blow through extension or Gizmo to trap air in the line and to proteck the skimmer from ice expansion.

The liner will slightly shrink. After they old though, the lose their plasticity. Then they shrink. The corners that tore are evidence of that. Liners typically last about 10 years.

I prefer to install lighter patterns as they tend to fade less. Premiere liners are very good. It is one of the brands I use also.

I prefer sand over foam but that is a personal choice. Your pool guy sounds like a straight shooter. The deterioration would have me concerned about the potential for splinters.

Scott

Thank you Scott . I really appreciate all the time you are taking. Last question. Do you mean that we would remove the old wood expansion joint and then fill with sand ? Then caulk or do you just periodically replace the loose sand ? As to the pool guy he is a very nice person and very honest which is a great thing to be able to say. Thanks again. c

Sand and then caulk. I prefer using sand over foam as a filler but it really isn't critical which they use for a filler.

Scott

I was sort of expecting a picture of a pool party food spread. :)