One more thing, there is a "neutral drain" sequence that engages after the agitate cycle. After agitation, the motor reverses direction and pumps the standing water out of the tub. Then the motor stops for 5 seconds and then restarts in the same direction. This disengages the neutral drain and engages the spin. Be sure to let the drain cycle complete prior to checking the spin. There is a kind gentleman on the web named Angel Acevedo who has prepared a series of excellent videos that will help you find and repair the failure in the spin/agitate cycles. I am going to be tied up for the rest of the day with my family and won't be on the computer, however, if you view these videos they will give you a good idea of the way to diagnose where the problem lies. The clutch is the first suspect, and if not that, it is the gearbox, assuming the motor is turning, which it should be now that you have fixed the cap. To check the clutch, I suggest this video. It shows how to replace the clutch if it proves bad. If the clutch is good, or you see no drive going to the clutch, then the problem is in the transmission itself. There is a repair procedure to fix a rather common failure mode in this transmission, but it involves having to tap and drill out a (presumably) busted stud. The kit is cheap, but you have to open the case, not a whole lot of fun unless you want to learn how the gearbox works. It is really not too complicated, but it IS messy. The good news is you can get refurb transmissions, complete and guaranteed, on ebay for under a hundred bucks. There's a used one for 35 bucks. But I would suspect the clutch first, check that, before moving on to the gearbox.

osxaddict~ D/W det. will not eat up your clothes... I had heard this too, but tested it & it's not true. When I switched to a FL I wasn't sure how to get my DH's filthy work clothes clean as I had been used to using Dawn liquid in my conventional TL which worked great. So, I tested 3 different kinds of d/w det. (Cascade powder, Cascade Action Pacs & Electrosol tabs) on some denim I had in my sewing room, letting a piece set in a bowl of water w/ the det. over night... All 3 pieces of fabric were just as strong the next day as they were when I put them in. I realize 1 night doesn't equal 100+ washes, but I think if it was going to do something it would've shown some signs... Also the mixture was very concentrated, in a washer it would have more water mixed w/ it. Mara~ Have you ever used Oxi Clean? I use that on whites & lights, & my DH's work clothes & really like it. But, I also use the Cascade Action Pacs on my DH's work clothes & it really works good too. I've never actually put the Cascade powder in w/ clothes, I only use it to clean my washer periodically, I may have to try this w/ DH's greasy jeans. I also use the Sears det. w/ Oxi added... It's cheap & does a good job IMO. Good luck! Shannon :)

Lazypup, here are the pictures of the connection. Unfortunately when I removed the wall, I found it was a 1.5 inch connection, and I also found the clean out behind the wall (something I will provide access for before I close the wall). Question, does this procedure seem valid below? I am considering cutting with a good carbide blade on a sawzall directly below the 1.5 inch connection, then adding in a PVC and fernco connection to the existing cast iron main going into the floor. I appears if I cut directly below the 1.5 inch connection, I will have 2 inches of cast iron pipe to get a fernco around. This cast iron piece is the kind that has the okam and lead fill (spelling??). I know cast iron has issues, but it is cuttable in this fashion? I would remove the stud for temporary access to cut this. I will then take a 4" PVC section with the 2" nipple and make the connection with a fernco. It appears the 2" connection may be a bit higher because I need to add a small piece of 4" PVC straight pipe to get the fernco connection around. Then I would remove the cast iron clean out section and continue PVC along with a reducer to 3 inches, install a 45 degree turn, install a 3" clean out and then connect to the 3" copper with a fernco. The clean out will get it from out behind its current location behind the stud.

Anyone who has ever purchased a set of building plans quickly learned that they do not supply a DWV (drain, waste & vent) print with the plans. This is because the layout of the DWV system is dependant upon the location where the municipal main or septic tank will be and no two homes will ever have exactly the same layout. It is the responsibility of the Master or Journeyman plumber to design the layout based upon code requirements as they relate to the parameters of the specific location. Generally the plumber will work out the design layout during the bidding process, then he or she can work out the material and labor costs for installation. I have taken your print and worked out one possible DWV layout for your house, not meaning to say that this is the only possible solution, but it is what I feel would be the easiest solution. You stated that you currently have two vents. If my layout is correct, you should have one vent for each bathroom, which is located directly above one of the lavatory risers in each bathroom. It would appear that you definitely need additional vents for both the laundry standpipe and the kitchen sink. The kitchen sink is on an outside wall and no doubt there are cabinets on the interior side of the wall, which would make adding a vent very difficult. Under these circumstances to minimize the amount of structural intrusion I would strongly suggest adding an AAV (air inlet valve) on the kitchen sink waste arm. I would definitely insist on adding a vent on the washing machine standpipe. You could easily access the line by opening the wall from the garage side behind the standpipe. At a point below where the standpipe trap connects to the riser I would install a Wye then offset slightly to the side at a 45deg upward angle, install an 1/8 bend turning upward and run an 1-1/2" riser up through the attic space and through the roof. PS: If you would like a copy of the DWV layout that I worked out send me an email and I will return it too you. LazyPup@yahoo.com