it depends on what your code is as to whether they have to vent out the roof or not. it sounds like they are not venting, but until teh builder looks it we really don't know. it could be sharing a vent with something else. it could be that the vent is clogged. or it could be not there at all as you suspect.

as to how easy it is to put one it, it all depends onthe layout and what your codes require. they may can simply install a AAV, or they may have to run a full sized pipe all the way out the roof. so it could be a couple hours or a few days/weeks of work to repair. CALL THEM.

While it is true that all traps require a vent, that does not mean that all vents must have a vertical riser above the waste arm. Depending upon the proximity of the riser to the vented branch or main drain it may be wet vented from the vented branch or main drain and not require a riser.

On the other hand, it could also be that they have the kitchen sink waste arm and the laundry standpipe waste arm connected to the riser by means of a double Tee (sanitary cross). Code prohibits using a double tee where one side is receiving a powered discharge and the other side is receiving a gravity flow discharge.

In either case an air admittance valve (AAV) would not eliminate the problem because the problem is that air in the riser is being displaced by the discharge from the washing machine, therefore the flow is from the inside out and an AAV simply will not allow air to escape.

thanks for the info.

I'm not sure how the laundry and kitchen pipe is connected. The drains go into the slab and I assume out from under there. I don't know what riser means other than if it is the vent pipe riser, which is non existent in the attic space.

The bathroom vent pipes are at least 30-40 ft away.

lazypup - if he did either of the methods you mentioned to meet code (not sure there is code enforcement where we are though) would we still have the horrible gurgling noise? It is very loud and not appetizing at all when you sit and eat and hear it.

Here is the floorplan to orient everybody as to locations of kitchen sink to laundry.

{{!gwi}}

Is this house on a municipal sewer or a septic tank? If it is a septic tank, do you know the approximate location of the septic tank?

It is on a septic and in the picture above the septic is located about 20-30 ft at a 30-45 degreen angle from the outside corner of Bedroom #2

Anyone who has ever purchased a set of building plans quickly learned that they do not supply a DWV (drain, waste & vent) print with the plans. This is because the layout of the DWV system is dependant upon the location where the municipal main or septic tank will be and no two homes will ever have exactly the same layout.

It is the responsibility of the Master or Journeyman plumber to design the layout based upon code requirements as they relate to the parameters of the specific location. Generally the plumber will work out the design layout during the bidding process, then he or she can work out the material and labor costs for installation.

I have taken your print and worked out one possible DWV layout for your house, not meaning to say that this is the only possible solution, but it is what I feel would be the easiest solution.

You stated that you currently have two vents. If my layout is correct, you should have one vent for each bathroom, which is located directly above one of the lavatory risers in each bathroom.

It would appear that you definitely need additional vents for both the laundry standpipe and the kitchen sink.

The kitchen sink is on an outside wall and no doubt there are cabinets on the interior side of the wall, which would make adding a vent very difficult. Under these circumstances to minimize the amount of structural intrusion I would strongly suggest adding an AAV (air inlet valve) on the kitchen sink waste arm.

I would definitely insist on adding a vent on the washing machine standpipe. You could easily access the line by opening the wall from the garage side behind the standpipe.

At a point below where the standpipe trap connects to the riser I would install a Wye then offset slightly to the side at a 45deg upward angle, install an 1/8 bend turning upward and run an 1-1/2" riser up through the attic space and through the roof.

PS: If you would like a copy of the DWV layout that I worked out send me an email and I will return it too you.

LazyPup@yahoo.com

Thank you Lazypup. The bath vent pipes are where you said they are. For the kitchen on they could always take the cabinets down to get it done too.

I would love a copy of the DWV and will send you an e-mail from my hotmail account.

Thank you very very much!!