I'd rather go vertical than across three walls and through two framed corners. If this is soldered copper and a remodel, soldering unions in a 3-stud framed corner can be a pain. It can be easier if the framing is open in new construction, or if the walls are lightweight construction, a partition end stud and drywall clips. If this is hard pipe, my overall goal would be to minimize the number of turns the plumbing has to make from the supply valve to the shower head. Secondary would be the shortest run of tubing. My own shower, I went across the ceiling. That gave me the fewest turns and shortest route.

Thanks much and beautiful showers! I am confused about the thermostatic valve. Is this something that I can buy separate and have it installed in the wall so that anytime I change out the shower handle/trim/valve it will automatically be there and still be accessible if it breaks and I need to change it? I hate to have more moving parts and things to break inside the walls. LIke this (although it looks like part of this would stick out of the wall?-another hole?: https://www.amazon.com/Rozin-Thermostatic-Mixing-Temperature-Control/dp/B01FAGWKTC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542006430&sr=8-3&keywords=thermostatic+control+valve#customerReviews  Or does do certain valves come with it like this?: https://www.amazon.com/Hansgrohe-04231000-Thermostatic-Control-Diverter/dp/B07FDFK5SM/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1542006430&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=thermostatic+control+valve&psc=1 I was wondering, also, it sets the temp but the initial issue of being cold while the water warms up since it has to run through the pipes would still be there, right? Problem is, I have chosen champagne bronze and if I need to get the thermostatic control valve built in I think that will be hard. I'm already having a hard time finding a handheld and shower head built into the same. I might have to get a separate handheld to divert water or I'm back to the initial question of do I just push the shower head over to shoot towards the wall before I turn on the H20 or go back to the idea of moving the control valve? Here's one of the options I was looking at for a showerhead before this discuss that I might need to adjust: https://www.amazon.com/58471-CZ-PK-H2Okinetic-4-Setting-Handshower-Showerhead/dp/B009MLXJN8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1542006748&sr=8-2&keywords=shower+head+combo+with+handheld+champagne+bronze

Joseph, I am trying to measure for the Grifform custom shower base, and I have some questions for you. When looking at "Care and Maintenance" on Grifform's website, it lists Grifform, Corian, and HiMacs so I guess they are three different products. When I click on Grifforms, it explains about Corian. Are Grifform custom bases made from Corian? Solid surface all the way through? Slab-floor Preparation: 1. The sub floor must be level and flat within 1/8”. If it is not, mix Self Leveling Mortar and screed the floor level. The Self Leveling Mortar must be thoroughly dry before proceeding with the installation. So, this base does not install in thinset. It installs like the Onyx Collection base. We plan on leveling the concrete to meet the level of the marble floor. (Or the level of the new tile if we tile over the marble.) Does this sound good? 2. Shower must have 1/8” clearance to any adjacent wall materials to allow for expansion. Does this mean 1/8" clearance to the wall studs on two sides? If I understood correctly, no backerboard is installed until the shower base is installed. Backerboard means cement board? There is no waterproof membrane added under the base? The base itself is waterproof. 3. The concrete slab should have a block out to allow the plumber to cut and fit the drain-line to the shower pan at the time of installation. A block out? I don't think I have this. My drain looks like concrete up to the PVC. 4. If the hole in the slab is greater than six inches from the center of the drain line, fill the hole with concrete level with the existing slab floor. If we need to chip out concrete to make a block out (#3), if we make it smaller than 6" , then we don't need to fill the hole in? Or is it 6" from all sides since it says 6" from the center of the drain line. Installation instructions: 4. Be sure the hole in the concrete around the drain is large enough not to interfere with the plumbing. If the plumbing does not adequately clear, excessive pressure could be placed on the drain and cracking may occur. I have no idea what this means. I thought it said to fill in with concrete. Measuring: I think I need the custom base that has two lips (flanges?) and two flat sides. Like the one below, except 48" x 36". #663 has the two lips for walls on the left side and back side, but it says the front side and right sides are entry. I don't want two entries, but I do want the right side to have a glass panel. Is this the one I want? Where do I start measuring from? Drywall is gone. Do I start measuring from the wall studs to the center of the drain hole? When ordering the base, I don't need to subtract anything for cement board or waterproof barrier or anything else? If I install tile on two of the walls, do I need to install anything under the concrete board? Waterproof membrane? Anything on top of the concrete board. I assume the seams get sealed before tiling. Does the cement board go all the way to the ceiling? Or just up to where I am stopping the tile? Can we texture the wall from top of tile to ceiling if we don't take the tile to the ceiling? Will any brand of shower door and glass panel work with the Grifform base? The Onyx Collection sells a glass door, so I don't know if just any glass door will fit. Geez, I am sorry I have so many questions after reading Grifform's manuals. I can't trust contractors here. I must know what they SHOULD be doing so I can ensure the job is done right. Thanks for your help, if you have time.

Sure. it all works via pressure differential and a spring. Gravity doesn’t enter into it.