I figure this is a topic that I would like to chime in on. Salt pools in the US started becoming popular like Kelly said about 10 years ago. I as a pool builder am leary of any new technology that has not ben thouroghly tested. Even though I do install the systems when asked to I still give the pros and cons of using these systems. This all being said I have seen a trend over the past few years. For every salt system that I install I am removing 2 of the systems on other pools. Why is this you ask. In most cases it in the stone around the pool being washed away. And others are from equipment failures caused by the salt. Many will argue on here that salt is not corrosive and that bonding of a pool will solve these problems. I disagree. I build my pools properly and when I continue to have the same problems on salt pools that I do not have on Regular erosion feeder systems. I have to question what is the problem. And the common factor is the salt systems. Nothing else. As far as Ozone systems. this is another system that I do not believe in. I think it is a big waste of money. Just another gimic for you to buy to put on your pool. Now even though I do not see the problems with this system that you see with salt I do not see the benefit of using them. This all leads back to my personal opinion that they have been using chlorine for well over 100 years on pools and never have seen the service issues that we see today with all the different type of chorination and augmentations sytems that are installed now days. So if it ain't broke don't fix it. Good luck on the pool build.

You guys compliment my ADD very well. Let me try to address these in order. 1. RG Balboa's tech support is like the weather in seattle, when it's good it's really good, when its bad, it's really bad. As of late it has been good. 2. Goldline was a great company be for being purchased by Hayward, now they pretty much suck. 3. I cannot suggest pH and Orp control for most homeowners. I only recommend these types of controllers for pools that have large dynamic bather loads, such as health clubs, and municipal pools. Because of their complexity and the frequency of calibration required, I could not suggest that one be put on a backyard pool, because it is not going to change the amount of oversight required on the pool. You cannot just set a controller and walk away from it. Calibrating the pH is easy, but the orp requires far more sophisticated equipment or procedures. Keep in mind that the proper operation, and execution of these feeders are over 80% of pool professionals heads, so imaging the hard time a homeowner will have with it. We had several very high dollar projects that demanded these types of controllers on them initially have since abandoned them and have gone back to doing it the old fashioned way. 4. Mineral Springs is the same unit as the Goldline one (last time I worked for a BioGuard dealer at least) so #2 applies to them as well. BioGuard does have great dealer support, so their tech support may be better than buying the goldline product, but its still now made by Hayward, so I would steer clean.

We also have a swg, and only shock the pool if the chlorine level indicates. I usually test my water a couple of times a week, and this season I have had to 'shock' it a few times. The troublefreepool.com people recommended good old household bleach for shocking, and it works great, and is less expensive than the shock sold in pool stores. I believe you are correct about the 'superchlorinate' feature - it allows for a gradual rise in chlorine.

Using an Intellichem with a salt cell is not a good idea, IMHO. The CYA level needed for a cell is too high for ORP to properly function. ORP sensors don't like the CYA over 30 ppm or their effective range of useful information will shrink. You will want the CYA at about 70 to 80 and the FC at about 8% to 10% of that. Cells, in addition to the hypochlorous acid and lye they produce (which pH wise, cancel each other so that aspect is neutral) also split water molecules. This produces O2 and H2. Depending on the distance to the main body of water, this may either provide the opportunity for the H2 and O2 to either recombine or, allow the H2 to gas off, reducing the alkalinity, and cause a moderate increase in the pH. IntellipH is suggested. This is a simple time based distribution device that pumps a specific amount of Muriatic acid to counter the typically seen pH rise. Testing is still required to keep the IntellipH dialed in. Changes in seasons, bather load, and weather will mean changes in pH periodically but this system will help keep things steady, pH wise. Proper testing with a good kit such as a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006 will tell you what is what and help you maintain a crystal clear pool that is safe for all to swim in. Dual IC-40s, in a manifold configuration, will be needed at a minimum. If you have an algae outbreak, the use of liquid chlorinating solution (10 or 12%) is suggested. Using the cells to raise the TC level takes too long and shortens their expected life. The use of liquid only adds some salt. If your CYA level is less than 80 ppm, dichlor powder can be used to also help bring the CYA level up when shocking. If your calcium hardness is under 225 ppm, cal-hypo powder can be used (premix with water in a big bucket). Scott