I think you are asking a question about the effect of the cooking mode on the different items you are cooking, not the size of the oven capacity, that is, not a question about whether all the items you mention will fit at the same time. That would depend on the size of your turkey! I cook whole turkeys on Convection Roast mode. This is what Wolf recommends in their DF manual. To paraphrase the manuel, in Convection Roast mode, heat from both convection fans, plus heat from the broil element, intensify the radiant and convective heating in the oven. It works very well at sealing in the juices. The regular Roast mode works fine too. In that mode the bake (from the bottom and broil elements (from the top) are use, cycling on an off to maintain the temperature I think it would be fine to have a pie or stuffing in the oven for a short amount of time in the Convection Roast or regular Roast mode. But my pies come out best when I use the Convection Bake mode for the full 35 to 45 minute baking time. This mode combines the two convection elements with heat from the bake element located beneath the oven floor. If you needed to have everything in the oven at the same time for 30 or 45 minutes I think I'd put everything on Convection Bake or regular Bake. Otherwise I'd be worried that the intensity of the broiler heat element on the Roast mode would be a bit too much for the pie. All of that said, the DF Wolf oven is a dream machine for baking, broiling, roasting, etc. Others may argue that the burners on the CC or BS are better and more powerful. But the Wolf DF range would be pretty hard to beat as an oven.

It depends on how the assemblies are attached and how much patience he has. How did the hood install go aside from the drop? Was he calm and collected? Does he get frustrated when things don't go smoothly? Does he have a lot of metric tools? I think a competent indiv. should be given a chance to rectify it on his own , but you also deserve a first class job too. It's not rocket building the factory worker that orig. assembled it didn't have a PhD in structural engineering or manufacturing. Also keep in mind that there is no guarantee that the "certified" Bosch tech will: 1. be any good 2. have ever swapped a ceran top before either. 3. won't mess it or something else up either.

Reflecting on what gtadross said about sizing a hood, I recall that the general rule of thumb for matching hood capacity to gas burner cookers is to have a hood capacity of 1 CFM per 100 btus of the rated capacity of the burners. IIRC correctly, the GE Cafe dual-fuel's five burners are: 20k btu + 17k btu + 9.1k btu + 8k btu + 5k btu. Add that up and divide by 100 and you get 591 CFM. IIRC, the BlueStar ranges straddle this figure: the RCS model with 15k burners and a 6k simmer burner equates to a 510 CFM vent capacity where the RNB with three 22k burners and a simmer burner would be about 700 to 800 CFM under this rule of thumb. Seems to me that you've pretty much got the same hood requirements regardless of whether you get a Blue Star or GE Cafe. At this point, somebody is likely to suggest an induction range. (For electric ranges, the rule of thumb is 100 CFM per lineal foot of stove top which, for a 30" ranges, translates to a minumum of 250 CFM of hood capacity. ) I suspect that you've already considered that option and rejected it. If nothing else, I'm guessing that, if you really like the Blue Star ranges, the aesthetics of induction ranges won't appeal to you. (I mention this from personal experience of stove shopping a year ago where one of the considerations for me was that I did not care for the appearance and touch-pad controls of the induction ranges that were in my price range.) Still, if you haven't considered induction, there are a couple of good choices in the price range you seem to be talking about. Beyond that comment, it seems to me that there are two different considerations in addressing hood sizing and your kitchen's need for venting and make-up air. (a) code requirements which only some places have adopted but which your contractor must follow if your locality has adopted them. Some folks may view these requirements as a bureaucratic game of regulatory over-reach, the rules of which can be flouted with impunity. and (b) Practical safety: You cannot flout these with impunity. So, how tightly is your house is buttoned-up? Do you have gas-powered fixtures (water heater, furnace) and/or fireplaces/woodstoves from which your hood may backdraft CO? Btw, I'm using "CO" as the abbreviation for carbon monoxide, not Colorado. I did recently see a couple of rangehoods that seemed large enough to backdraft a state, though. :>) Anyway, if you have all electric heating or a large and drafty house or if your other gas fixtures have their own make-up air, or if you live in a warm climate where windows can always be left open, then you may not actually need an in-kitchen MUA system. It happens that, in my (very-cold climate) house, the water heater and furnace were isolated enough down in the basement that their MUA systems cost me than less $200. The take-away for me is that fixture-MUA can take care of any potential back-drafting without the difficulties and expense on adding MUA into the kitchen. However, this is very much a YMMV kind of thing. For me, the main consideration is that physics (e.g., air flow) and chemistry (e.g., the toxicity of CO) cannot be evaded the way that building code requirements can be disregarded, Now, as gtadross's post implies, most localities will allow you to install a BS range without any vent hood at all. But, doing the hood later raises some practical questions. Can you later install a hood yourself? If not, and you have to contract the work, then any competent contractor is going to have to address the regulatory and practical MUA considerations then. It will be more expensive later. Just my 2 cents worth. This post was edited by JWVideo on Sat, Nov 2, 13 at 15:20

@Timothy Fisher ”would you consider triply pans as highly conductive?” There are huge differences in these pans. This guy has done a lot of studies and ranks some here. https://www.centurylife.org/cookware-even-heating-rankings-butane-propane-natural-gas-etc/ The nonsticks are all pretty good because they tend to be aluminum. I think you would almost have to try the burner to see how much flare it has on high. Also I don’t see 3 rings but two. I guess three choices, inner, outer ring or both. This is a screen shot from a video of GE’s burner with a 12” pan. I don’t know if this is the highest heat. Typically on this type of a dual burner the middle burner doesn’t carry many BTUs so still basically a single ring burner. As you turn this up the burner ports are along side the rays and the flame stays to the middle. This is why it is good for woks. This may be one of the smaller burners but the principle is the same. if you cook with a lot of wider pans on high heat, the GE is probably fine.