Iron/Manganese removal: Softener: A softener with specialty resin is capable of removing dissolved iron, up to 7 ppm (mg/L) but asking a softener to remove iron at those upper limits is really pushing it so I would not recommend this method. In addition, a softener will become fouled with particulate iron, which you have at least sporadically. Since your iron and manganese levels are so high a softener is a terrible option for you. Oxidation/Filtration: An oxidizer such as ozone, air, or chlorine may be used to react with the iron and force it to become particulate iron that can then be removed via filtration. A typical setup would involve the oxidizing unit, a holding tank, then a media filter. This type of system works quite well, but takes some expertise in sizing - you would want a water treatment pro that you trust to help you with this option. Oxidizing filtration media: This type of treatment consists of a sealed tank filled with one of several media. Water passes through and is oxidized and filtered by the media. These are relatively easy to operate and what I would recommend for the average homeowner. There are several different media that can be used: manganese greensand: water runs through for treatment. The media must be regenerated with potassium permanganate. Care must be taken with dealing with potassium permanganate as it readily dies organic material, such as your skin, a purple-brown color. Some people are quite comfortable dealing with the chemical; others are not. Synthetic greensand: This is essentially the same as option (a) but consists of a coating of greensand on a silica sand core so does not require as much backwash flow. Service flow rate is 2 - 5 gpm/sqft. Backwash flow rate is 12 gpm/sqft. birm: This media acts as a catalyst to force oxidation of iron. While it does not need to be regenerated, it does need fairly high dissolved oxygen in the water. If your water does not have adequate dissolved oxygen (and it probably doesn't since it is well water), air injection would be necessary prior to the birm. Additionally, birm requires a minimum pH of 6.8.. Service flow rate is 3.5 - 5.0 gpm per sqft. Backwash flow rate is 11 - 20 gpm, depending upon water temperatures and desired bed expansion. pyrolox: an ore that oxidizes then filters the iron out. It does not need regeneration, but needs to be backwashed (to rinse out the iron) at a high rate. pH range is 6.5 - 9.0. This type of filter works very well, but backwash is critical. Service flow rate is 5 gpm/sqft. Backwash is 25-30 gpm/sqft. Backwash daily. Terminox: Similar to Pyrolox, but a proprietary formula . It does not require as much backwash flow rate and is more resistance to a low pH. The particulars are only available from the company that sells it. Backwash daily. Filox: Also similar to Pyrolox. pH range 5.0 - 9.0. Backwash flow 12-15 gpm/sqft. Service flow 6 gpm/sqft. It must be backwashed daily.

You didn't comment regarding the whole house carbon filter. Your posted quote shows a softener but no prices. No inline filter will remove hardness, iron, or manganese so without a softener you'll be living with that and drinking it and exposing all your plumbing, fixtures, and appliances to it. As for sodium added to softened water... The formula for added sodium is 7.85 mg/l (about a quart) of softened water per grain per gallon of compensated hardness. EXAMPLE 7 gpg * 7.85 = 55 mg of sodium added per liter of softened water, not salt. How does this sodium content of softened water compare to sodium found in common foods? The table demonstrates the usual range of sodium in common foods. Food Amount Mg of Sodium Ketchup 1 tablespoon 204 Milk 2 Cups 226 Frozen Peas 1/2 Cup 295 Bread 2 Slices 322 Corn Flakes 1 oz. 260 Parmesan Cheese 1 oz. 528 Tomato Juice 4 oz. 504 Tomato Soup 1 Cup 932 Chili 1 Cup 1194 Beef Broth 1 Cup 1152 Not as much sodium added as you think? SFR is Service Flow Rate which is calculated based on plumbing size, pressure, and fixtures. SFR is a must consideration when sizing a softener otherwise hardness will leak through at peak flow. If I were you I'd hit the Yellow Pages and call at least three local water treatment pros. Make sure you call at least one of the big dogs like Kinetico or Culligan for comparison and at least a couple independent pros. DON'T TELL THEM YOU HAD YOUR WATER TESTED. Give each an opportunity to offer suggestions and provide you with a quote to meet your water treatment needs. IGNORE ANY THAT DON'T TEST YOUR WATER THEMSELVES as they can't speak intelligently to water treatment without knowing what needs to be treated. Ask lots of questions. Softening the entire house or just the water heater (IMO a bad idea)? Warranty, parts & labor or just parts, how long and on exactly what? Install, permits required, licensed plumber? Routine maintenance and costs? Do they stock parts? Response time for emergency (water leak) calls? If they don't explain things to your satisfaction that is a good indicator of how you'll be treated after the sale. After they've gone use your water test to compare with theirs. Are all your treatment needs being addressed? Ask your neighbors if they have any water treatment experience. They might tell you who's good or who to avoid. Come back here and post the specific recommendations and hardware components with the costs and we'll give you our opinions.

We have high sulfur and high ph in well water. We went with Culligan chlorination system. There are two different kinds of sulfur in well water. Ours has sulfur bacteria. A harmless nuisance bacteria. Aeration will not work on sulfur bacteria. It looks like that is what you may have since each company is suggesting equipment that kills bacteria. You don't mention a retention tank which goes before the carbon filter. Research online from my experience and from each water co. we had come to our house says retention tank is needed. Sulfur in well water is difficult. Problem is getting the correct dosage. As chlorine ages it deteriorates, our well water the sulfur level changes so getting the correct dosage of chlorine takes work. You use a pool test kit to check the chlorine level before it goes to the carbon filter. We got a backwashing carbon filter. Cartridge carbon filter clog to quickly. Our equipment is 10 years old and we haven't had a problem. Get it right the water taste good and no smell. When the dosage is off you may not notice the smell ( you get immune to it) but those who visit will notice. We get our drinking water from a natural spring nearby that many people from all over come to. However, I will occasionally taste the water just to be sure everything is working good and as long as the dosage is right the water taste good.

Check out your local extension service for labs in your area that conduct drinking water testing. They can also give you insight as to pollutants of concern that you may want to add onto a standard drinking water test. As long as they are accredited, online labs should be fine. In fact, often times local labs will mail out their samples to other labs if they do not conduct a particular test onsite. No need to test for 100 pollutant parameters. Sticking to the standard tests, plus a few extra parameters you're concerned about, will be a heck of a lot cheaper than a larger-scale analysis--especially if it's treated municipal water. Good luck!