QUOTE "I learned that as communities grow, instead of upgrading the infrastructure ($$$), cities will often resort to the easy fix which is to crank up the pressure." I find that statement extremely hard to believe because cities do not use pumps to generate the pressure. Municipal water pressure results from static head pressure developed by water towers or locating storage tanks on high elevations within the community. The municipal supplier uses pumps merely to keep the storage tank full. In fact, quite the opposite is true. In many instances the municipal line pressure increases as a result of the city replacing old lines with new lines that are larger in diameter which then results in less friction head from the source to the point of demand, ergo the pressure at the demand is higher. The municipal supplier is not required to provide PRV's. When ever a new installation is set in place the municipal supplier is required to make a tap into the municipal line and run a short section of line from the tap to the "Curb Stop" valve. The property owner is then responsible to install a code approved "Supply Line" from the curb stop to the structure, and all "Distribution Piping" within the structure. In instances where the volume will be measured by means of a meter the municipal supplier will inform the builder where the meter will ultimately be located and they five you a "Fitting allowance" measurement. You are then required to cut out a section of the supply line equal to the fitting allowance length, and in some jurisdictions the homeowner is required to install 1/2 of a meter union on each open end of the line. After the line is inspected the municipal suppliers personnel will supply and install a meter in that opening. Under both the IRC & UPC in instances where the static head pressure exceeds 80psi the homeowner is required to install a PRV (pressure reducing valve). (IRC-2903.3.1 & UPC 608.2) Under both the IRC & UPC either the valve must have an integral bypass for thermal expansion or you must install an expansion tank. (IRC 2903.4 & UPC 608.3).

WHOA........STOP IMMEDIATELY... From what you are describing you do not have an angle stop valve. All you have is a 1/2"NPT x 3/8Compression adapter. If this is true you will need to turn the water off at a zone valve or at your house main, then drain the pipes before removing that fitting otherwise you will flood the house. Once you have the lines drained you can remove that adapter then install a 1/2"NPT x 3/8"compression angle stop valve and attach your toilet supply line to the output of the valve. You will need pipe dope or teflon tape on the pipe threads before installing the valve but do not put any teflon on the valve output port threads.

The answer to your question is another question: How much money do you want to spend and how much renovating do you want to do? So, yeah, that faucet trim is dated. The tub spout not fitting to the wall looks bad also. You have some options: $ 1. Replace the insides of the valve to stop the leak 2. Also replace the trim 3. Replace the tub spout and fix it so that it meets the tile (shorten the stub). Or $$$$ Replace the tub, retile, and put in new shower faucets. Build out the wall so that it fixes that "shelf" What I would do: I would go with Option #1 to fix the leak and make it look much better without dropping a huge amount of money. If, at some later date, you want to do significantly more work, you can. Usually when you first move into a new home money is tight... so do enough work to make this look 100% better and not leak, but don't drop big coin on it right now. What I would not do: I would not cut into the tile to replace the faucet. It's not going to go back well.

Soldering copper pipe is a good homeowner skill to learn. And, it's easy to do. When you buy the torch, pick up a short length of pipe, some fittings to practice with, and a soldering kit like this: https://www.menards.com/main/tools/torches-soldering-tools/oatey-reg-safe-flo-silver-plumbing-solder-kit/50683/p-1444449926798-c-8533.htm?tid=-8460164875200987733&ipos=2 Clean the inside and outside of all the pipe surfaces where they would overlap with the sanding cloth, surfaces should be bright and shiny copper. Apply a small amount of tinning flux to all surfaces, assemble things and its ready to solder. Turn on the torch and set it on a level surface in front of you. With channel lock pliers, hold the assembly with one hand and bring the assembly into the heat of the flame. Not into the base of the flame, stay more towards the flame tip. If you overheat the joint, the surfaces oxidize and you're done, the joint will never solder properly. Bring the joint temp up slowly, the tinning flux will start to bubble, and with the roll of solder unwound/extended and in your other hand, test the joint with the solder on the opposite side of the heat. As the joint comes up to soldering temp, the solder will melt and be drawn into the joint by capillary action. The joint is done! You can wipe the joint with a cotton rag to clean it up if desired. As the joint cools the solder solidifies. You can touch/drape a wet cotton cloth around a joint to speed up its cooling, or if I'm preassembling several fittings at a bench, I like to drop the assembly into a bucket of water so I can handle things quicker.