Ack! Hole cut too large in granite for my prep sink!
eks6426
14 years ago
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beekeeperswife
14 years agoRelated Discussions
In a little panic - faucets may be too large for sinks
Comments (40)First, let me say how very much I appreciate everyone's help with this. My salesperson is not really processing through this with me. treasure - your bathroom is stunning, I have seen your pix before and just love it. good to see the frameless mirror as well... that's the way I'm leaning but have a while to decide. have to deal with this faucet issue pronto while I still have the plumber engaged. the "hook" beneath the panel is an extra hand shower holder, so it's accessible while sitting on the bench which does not show in the pic. Back to the handles/faucet - great point oly - here are the specs for each (I wish I knew how to make these clickable): this is the one I currently have, and would like to keep the handles: http://www.rohlhome.com/pdf/220.pdf This is the spout I'm leaning to: http://www.rohlhome.com/pdf/1020.pdf Yes enduring - the size of the hole is a huge consideration. The plumber measured it from the underside and we think it will work. I'm going to ask DH to loosen the faucets enough so we can measure the hole. Yes, absolutely the 1st replacement spout will fit - same size base and same size spec'd holes. I actually think that the 1st one is more lovely but I want the extra 1/2" of space the other affords! I will maybe just buy each and insist that my salesperson take 2 back once I decide. If that fails, I learned that AMEX still has purchase protection and that may ensure I can receive credit. I hate to do that, but I don't know how to tell otherwise....See MoreToo Much Stuff Around My Sink! Before & After Pics
Comments (18)Thanks for your thoughts. I just figured some people might want to see what can happen when you give in to every bell & whistle ;^) Let me answer the questions: Morton5: yes, if you look at the Before pic, you can see just how narrow a space we had there to sit and eat. The sink was constantly splashing the people there. We did away with the island completely in the end, though, and love the new layout. Redroze: I just keep it in this olive oil dispenser. The other dispenser there is for hand soap. I found the brush at Bed Bath & Beyond. It's specifically made to wash crystal glasses with, but I use it for my everyday glasses, too. After all the stuff I had drilled into my last counter/sink area, I tried to avoid drilling holes in this new one. Holes are so permanent, you know? "> Eandhl: It's Kohler's Vinnata in the brushed nickel and we love it. Brad, here's a couple, plus one of the KA's plan for that area: "> This was taken as we were moving back in, so it's a mess. "> "> Mominthedubc: The filtered water faucet is meant to work on R/O's (Reverse Osmosis filtration systems), which is what we have here. It's not meant to be used with a hot water system. Anyhoo, it's Kohler's Wellspring in the brushed nickel to coordinate with theiir Vinnata. BTW, it's made wonderfully, compared to all the other beverage faucets we've had in the past. Davewg: you're going to love the Vinnata! I can't wait to see your finished kitchen. Hang in there! Talley Sue: that's fantastic! I had no idea those things existed. I've already copied the info to show DH. Thanks!...See MoreNew Granite Installed; Sink is too small. Can it be re-cut?
Comments (21)Davidro-lol, so true! I actually thought this morning when I saw the dirty dishes that my kids and DH had so kindly stacked in the sink for me, "And why exactly did I want a larger one?" Jilljohn-But at least you have the other half of the sink to use! But it's okay...I'm slowly getting used to it. A 9" sink? I'm trying to picture that! I don't really think that is something that buyers notice when touring homes, so hopefully you won't have to replace it. I think we're going to keep it. I do now have a garbage disposal where I did not before, so I'm pretty pleased with that. :)...See MoreSinks! Drain location, Julien vs CreateGoodSinks, & prep sink question
Comments (33)@C. First of all, if you are 5'10" and have really bad back pain, then a 38" countertop height might still be too low for you. I'm barely 5'7" when when standing up as straight as I can, and a 38 3/4" countertop height is very comfortable for me. At 5'10", you could easily go up to a 40" countertop height. It is uncommon for kitchen designers to specify countertops much higher than 40" for anyone except a frequent kitchen user who is taller than 6 feet in order to retain the general usability for varying heights of potential users, but you may always do what you find best for yourself. I would encourage you to do a mockup of a 40" countertop height and try different tasks like chopping on a cutting board and stirring in mixing bowls to see how you like it. Remember that you should allow 1/2" for cabinetry leveling, so find your perfect height, and then subtract 1/2" (from the total of cabinetry plus countertop) when placing your order. The minimum possible front countertop ledge width is determined by factors which contribute to the risk of a break. I will guarantee you that ledge width in your picture is probably wider in person than it may appear here. Few fabricators will cut a continuous ledge (meaning without seams) less than 2 1/2" to 3" wide, and some fabricators will even burden you with a 4" or greater ledge, though that is excessive. The Galley issues guidelines for cutting the sink hole with no seams around the hole, but this technique complicates the handling and transport of the piece because that area is so delicate once it is cut. If I understand, correctly your countertop will only be 1/2" thick which may mean that you are using porcelain or something of that nature, and in that case, the substrate will dictate that you will need a seam for a narrow front ledge rather than having the sink cut from the middle. Porcelain is already fragile, and it won't survive the handling, transport, and installation with a pre-cut, narrow, continuous sink ledge. Be cautious of any fabricator who wants to install steel rods to help stabilize a front sink ledge. Those rods can get wet and swell and cause future breakage. The best policy is to avoid rod reinforcement. In terms of ergonomics, the height of your countertop and the height of your sink is relatively more important than how far forward you stand to the sink, but if you have really bad back pain and want to give your best effort to eliminating that in your kitchen, then an apron-front sink still needs to be on your list for consideration. I regularly operate within the full confines of the apron front which brings dishes and other tasks such as cleaning the sink very close to my body and allows me to stand mostly upright. It is the leaning forward at a sink that strains your back, and you will lose at least a hand width's advantage with a non-apron-front sink of your ability to work closer to your body to minimize leaning. For many people this is not an issue, and due to the fact that non-apron-front sinks are usually less expensive and more plentiful in terms of brands and styles, plus more aesthetically pleasing in many instances, the majority of kitchen remodelers are not using apron-fronts. Both Rachiele and Havens offer texturing for their stainless steel sinks, and if you look at their portfolios, you'll see that a hammered or otherwise textured finish is actually very pretty for an apron front sink. I have a textured finish, and it hides water spots and scratches and it looks as new today as it did several years ago when I had it installed. My only caution is that the interior of the sink should preferably be smooth to aid with cleaning. I believe that texturing can be applied only to the forward-facing and top ledge part of the apron front if you like that look. Spillage over the apron front is not a problem for me. Every now and then, I might get a small drip down the apron front, maybe after loading the dishwasher with something wet, but nothing more than you would sometimes get from a sink with a ledge that gets water on the front ledge and drips down occasionally. I would be hard pressed to say if I even have to wipe drips of water off the apron front even once per week. It just really is not a problem for me. It sounds like you are on the right track to helping with your ergonomics. As I mentioned earlier, your first step is to see if you can raise those countertops up to 40". If you do a lot of bread kneading or something where you need your arms straight down, you might consider doing dual levels somewhere in the kitchen. Generally, 41" to 42" is the upper stretch of a modified countertop height, and that would be for someone taller than 6 feet. The reason that we don't like to raise the countertop much more than that is because then they become unusable for people who are shorter. However, at a height of 5'10" with back problems, 40" is not at all out of reason. Be aware that if you wear shoes with thick soles when you are working in the kitchen or if you intend to put down a comfort mat on the floor that has substantial thickness, those factors could alter how you feel about your cabinetry height. Mocking up a height and doing various tasks is the most reliable way to determine what is best for you....See Morejrueter
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