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lining up sink waste lines

16 years ago

Im having trouble getting the drain lines in the kitchen sink to line up to waste line in the back of the cabinet.Im leaving everything loose so i can push up and down and spin the trap side to side but im off at an angle to the wall drain. Is there a link to exact instructions to do this? thanks

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Comments (4)

lazypup
16 years ago
Is this new construction or are you replacing an existing sink?

Is is a single or double sink?

If you are replacing a sink, is the sink your installing the same type as the one you took out? (single double etc)
stuart_1
Original Author
16 years ago
A double sink in a remodel. I am not putting a disposal back in so im replacing all the pvc. Im using the kit that brings the drain water to the center of the sink. I hook the trap under the center drop with some up and down play. The wall drain comes from the right corner center of the cabinet.The first 6'' is galvanized then turns into plastic. My new pipe slides into it with a couple inches of play. The problem is when everything meets its an inch off at an angle. I would not like to use any flex type pipe for fear of slowing the waste water, but i will if there is no other solution. thanks again
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Listen to your gut. It's forecasting the future. I strongly suspect that your local municipality requires you to take out a permit for the plumbing work you have begun. IF..... you were to take out such a permit, odds are you will have to separate the sewer line from all other sources of water in order to get the work passed. It's common practice to do this because the sewer treatment plant cannot handle the combined load during heavy rainfalls and spring thaws. Why your home escaped scrutiny for all these years is surprising. Most towns and cities use dye tests to figure out what's what and then issue work orders to correct these situations. If you have no storm sewers on the street, then a sump pit with pump is in your future. If you don't do this work now, you may regret it because if this situation is discovered down the road, then you will end up re-doing the whole thing. Think how much that will cost...after you have everything finished.
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I have been Googling for a while. That's what brought me here. I'm trying to figure out how to get a drawing on here but it is a basic bath with shower drain about 1 1/2 ft from side wall, toilet flange another 3 ft over from that, lav drain about 3 ft over from that. The kitchen sink drain is about 13 ft from left outside wall. Shower, toilet, lav, and kitchen sink all lined up along the back wall. The washer drain is about 4 ft from side wall and about 5 ft from back wall. The main drain is stubbed in about 2 1/2 ft from back wall and about 2 1/2 ft below floor level. Hope that helps.
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2 possibilities.....if the pipe coming out of the wall is plastic...looks like ABS plastic...you could cut it off to shorten it and then it could line up. The piece attached to the end of this piece is called a desanko or trap adapter. It is glued on and a new one will be needed. You should get a another ABS rather desanko rather than one made of PVC and then use ABS cement. Or if you get a white one (PVC) you will need a special glue to attach PVC to ABS. When cutting cut it a touch longer than you think you need and do a trial fit. If it's still too long cut a little more off. The point is you don't want to cut too much off on the first cut because then you will have to get a new, longer trap. A second option is to get a flexible tail piece...that is the piece that goes from the sink basked to the trap. But I'm not sure that a flexible tail piece will bend enough to make the connection that you show.
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The ASTM regulations do state as lazypup says. When you are having new work done, you have every right to expect the work to be done properly and professionally. Your plumber knew to do everything 100% by the book. It's not baloney. The OP didn't question if this was to code. The OP wanted to know if it would hold in accordance with it's use and, it will if completely glued. I think the plumbers experienced assessment of the issue at hand determined he could save you some money and resolve the problem. An experienced plumber knows the characteristics of the materials he uses as well as the integrity of the configuration of the installation. This knowledge allows him to exercise a bit of discretion on specific issues. But I think you can be assured, if the joint was thoroughly glued, it won't come apart, for the reasons I stated. You have every right to push the issue and have the plumber return and redo the work. Of course, it will require additional supplies and additional charges for only that portion of the work. Of course, you shouldn't expect to pay him to undo whatever you are not satisfied with.
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davidandkasie
16 years ago
the trap should be able to twist side to side enough to get you where you need to be. you may need to legthen/shorten a horizontal piece, but the it should not be that hard to do.

are you using glue together pipe or good old threaded PVC?
stuart_1
Original Author
16 years ago
threaded pvc- twisting sise to side and legthen/shorten doesnt work its like a need a connector that has a 15 degree angle that isnt available. Part of the problem is the galvinized pipe that is to long into the cabinet.

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