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oceanna_gw

Sewing/designing curtains/slider/French doors help please

oceanna
15 years ago

This is the fabric I'm using to make a curtain (singular, pulls to one side only) for the dining room sliding glass door:

I measured the fabric end to end and figured I can cut it into three equal panels to sew into one curtain (left, middle, right).

But here's the problem. I don't really have enough for decent hem allowances on top and bottom. I measured the approx. finished curtain length (just ballparking with the rod not hung yet -- as I recall I used 87") and then divided that into the entire length of the fabric and I came out with 3.1. If I do only two panels I'll have plenty of top and bottom hem allowance and more fabric than I need, but the curtain won't be nearly as lush and full. I would like to do the three panels. I won't be certain of exactly how much I have till I get them hung, but I will measure again before I cut. They will hang from rings, so that will help.

The curtain will be on my deck door, facing the back yard. Nobody will see the back side. The only time it will ever be closed is on a hot summer day to block the sun. I think I pulled the existing vertical blinds twice last summer. This is very heavy tapestry upholstery fabric that will block sun well, so I'm not planning to line it. Lining would just add to the weight. I got a heavy duty rod and rings for it. Haven't mounted the rod yet. Would like to mount it at ceiling height but need to design the curtain first.

Would this heavy upholstery fabric lend itself to a wide contrasting band on the bottom, like this? I don't think I'm crazy about this look for this...

Should I do a contrasting solid attached (so the top hem could be tiny) valance trimmed with fringe -- sort of like this -- at the top? I like this look (straight edge though). If I do this could I make the turnover well into the contrasting fabric, so the contrasting fabric is actually the top few inches of the curtains but the attached valance hides that fact? If I do this, is there some formula for how long the valance hangs down? I think this one looks a little short. And if I do it, which color should I look for and how to match that weight?

So what would you do?

And this is probably something I can't afford, but if I had my way I'd replace that slider with a French door. Was hoping I might find one in CL eventually. But I suspect the measurements wouldn't be the same and that could cause a lot of extra work/expense. Have any of you replaced a slider with French doors?

I hope I communicated that well. lol!

Comments (33)

  • ronbre
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    i think if you can match the red in your rug it would be a nice band at either the top or the bottom, and will tie the two in to each other beautifully

  • laxsupermom
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I love your fabric! I can't really help with the drapery questions since my one stab at full length drapes was only so-so.

    These are my DR drapes. They are silk on top w/ an embroidered(it's hard to see) taffeta on the bottom. They're lined with a heavy liner because the windows are enormous and it's cold here.


    Ignore the mess in the backyard. I wish I could have hung the rod higher, but I couldn't because of the darn beams. Oh, ignore the table cover, too. It's a velveteen elasticized top(like a fitted sheet) that I made for the table for card games.

    I can help with the french door/slider issue. We replaced our stupid, awful, constantly getting gunk in the track slider with out-swing french doors which we absolutely love. We did it just ahead of our kitchen remodel and it made it so much easier to bring things in and out of the house through the great big double door opening. The out-swing doesn't take up any clearance space inside the house. On a daily basis we mostly use the right side door which is why there is a mat in front of the right side.


    Again, ignore the messy backyard.

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  • nanny2a
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    If you could find a heavy silk or taffeta fabric in the dark reddish mauve, (I can't tell the true color on my monitor), that matches your rug and the curtain, a style similar to your second image should work. I'd make the attached valence about 24" long, and sew on a bullion fringe in the light tan/ivory color that also matches your fabric.

  • suero
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Just a caution: your fabric looks like it would have a visible repeat, more like the second set of draperies in your message, not like the design in the first set. Notice how the repeat shows up in the second set. If you haven't allowed for the repeat, you may have even less fabric to work with than you think.

  • dilly_dally
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I think a dark band at the bottom may look even better. It would offer a line of demarcation between the drapery print and the print in the rug so they are not too close together and clashy.

    I don't think a valance over a door would look right.

  • paint_chips
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I read your math problem five times trying to figure it out. I must need chocolate because I don't understand why you would need three panels for a single curtain swept to one side. : / Wish I could help, but WOW my mind isn't working today!

    Love your fabric though! I am interested to see how it turns out using an uphostery fabric for drapes. After spying some great prints, I've often wondered how that would hang.

  • jejvtr
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    oceanna
    Can you post the dimensions of the slider & the dimensions of the fabric - that may help. If you have the rod & know what you would like the finished length to be that would help as well

  • nanny2a
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Oceanna, when I said valence, I was just using your description of the upper portion of the curtain which folds over and is attached to the drape at the top - not a true separate valence. I noticed that Dilly Dally mentioned that a valence wouldn't look right over a door, and just wanted to clarify this so there was no confusion.

  • gracie01 zone5 SW of Chicago
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    If you don't have enough fabric for a decent hem, you can cheat. Make your bottom hem decent, and your top hem as small as you can make it. Your valance is made separately and clipped to the panels, as I did here:

    {{gwi:1544850}}

  • nanny2a
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Nice drapes, gracie01, that's just the look I had in mind for oceanna's, except with longer fringe, perhaps.

  • mahatmacat1
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    (side question to gracie: what are the shades inside the draperies? They're beautiful, and just what I'm looking for for our sliders, actually. And how are they mounted?)

    (I was thinking of starting a new thread, but that would mean that someone else's thread would be pushed off entirely, so I hope you don't mind, oceanna -- and it brings up a question for you, too: is this all that you're putting over the sliders? Or are you doing shades underneath?)

  • gracie01 zone5 SW of Chicago
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    flyleft,

    those shades are cheapies from Target; I needed something on the small window for late afternoon sun in winter; just added more to the big window to make them match. I just bought 2 more for my DR on sale; I believe they're discontinued. In any case, they wouldn't stand up to heavy use. Oh, & they're mounted above the window to add height.

  • mahatmacat1
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Ah, thanks, gracie. I liked some of what I saw at Target but they are all too short for my needs (around 90"). And I wanted to mount mine above the window too -- yours confirm that plan because they look so good!

  • oceanna
    Original Author
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    This is the big wide sliding glass door I let my dogs in and out of five+ times a day. With the slider I let them out the left, and that's why I want just one curtain that pulls to the right, way over out of the dogs' way.

    What kind of fringe would you use? I was thinking tassel fringe, but with fabric so heavy maybe bullion fringe?

    Ronbre, I think you're right about matching the burgundy, thanks.

    Laxsupermom, your drapes look great and thanks for the pix. Silk and embroidered taffeta - yumm. How clever of you to sew that table cover for games, too. Don't worry, I can't see your yard. Isn't it amazing how everything, every speck of dust just JUMPS out of the pictures we go to post here? I will look at something day after day and see nothing wrong until I take a pic to post and oh my gosh at one thing or another. lol! Your Frenchies are gorgeous. Smart about having them open outward. Were they very different in size from your old slider so a lot of work had to be done to make them fit the hole? I don't have a DH and a lot of work = a lot of $ which I also don't have. So I may never get my Frenchies.

    Nanny2a, it's burgundy. This is a tapestry weight, very heavy so I was thinking velvet would more match the weight. Would you really do silk? I'm afraid it would look flimsy. I knew what you meant about the valance, thanks.

    Suero, yikes! I hadn't even thought about matching with the pattern so small and them being open all the time. Please see my note to Paint_chips below for the dimensions and repeat and what do you think?

    Dilly, do you think they're clashy? I'll think about your point. Not a valance over the door per se. Just one at the top of the curtains that look like Gracie's. But let me say the trim around the door is nothing fancy. I didn't have to look at it with the old treatment, which was a valance over the door for years and it looked fine.

    ATTN ALL YOU MATH SMARTIES, PLEASE! Paint_chips & Jejvtr, WINDOW: the slider is 67"w x 77"h not counting the trim frame around it. It is 72"w x 80-1/4"h if you count the trim. There is 11.5" of wall above the top wood trim to the ceilling. So 72"w (to cover trim) x 2 (for fullness) = 144" is the minimum width the curtain should be to look nice in case I pull it when I have guests. FABRIC: I just remeasured. The fabric is 57"w x 255"long (7yds + 3"). 57" w (seam allowances not figured x 2 = only 114", not the recommended minimum of 144". The repeat, believe it or not, is about 31" so do I have to pay attention to it with something that busy? And could I with only two panels rather than 3? 255" divided by 3 (panels) = only 85", which is worse than I thought. That means I'd have to have a band either top of bottom with 3 panels and 2 panels will look skimpy/cheapy.

    Doesn't a band at the bottom look pretty modern? Would that be wrong with my antiques, or would it be right as a way to blend my too-modern house in with them?

    Can I have a burgundy band at the top that is shorter than the valance and cover it with a longer burgundy valance? Say, make the band at the top 12" deep and the valance 24" deep?

    Can anyone look at those measurements and advise what you'd do? Because it all ties my punkin' head in knots just thinking about it. Thanks!

    Gracie, thanks for the pictures of your beautiful WT. That's exactly the look I want, except no shades and only one curtain. I didnt' know the valance was separate with that look. That would be easier. How long (tall) is the valance, please? Your room is just lovely.

  • oceanna
    Original Author
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Anyone?

  • suero
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I think the math is right. Here goes.
    I'm assuming that you'll want to stack the draperies so that they don't cover the window when they are completely open. If so, I'm guessing that you'll need 15" more than the width of the window including the frame. You may need more. I'm also assuming you'll want double width. If the fabric is really heavy, maybe you can get by with 1 1/2 width.
    So.
    Width to cover window (72") plus stacking space (15") times 2 = 174". Your fabric is 57" wide. 174/57 = 3 (and a little bit over). If you can get by with 1 1/2 fullness, multiply by 1.5 instead of 2.
    Say your draperies will be 80" long (I'm allowing for a little bit over the top of the trim and subtracting 1" from the bottom so that the draperies clear the floor). You'll need to add 3" for the top and 8" for the bottom hem. That gives 91" for the length of each panel. Divide 91" by the length of the repeat, which is around 31" and up the answer to the next whole number. That gives 3. Multiply 3 by the length of the repeat (3 x 31) to get the length of a panel. That's 93". You need 3 panels, so you need 3 x 93, or 279".
    You have 255".

  • gracie01 zone5 SW of Chicago
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Thanks oceanna.

    All drapes in my house are machine washable because my son has allergies. I used 84" panels from target and removed the header. Just made a simple hem on top since it doesn't show. The valance is made from a tablecloth (again, washable) because I couldn't find washable fabric in the width that I needed for the panels. So, the drapes are 88" long, and the valance, with trim is 20". Also the fringe comes off so I can wash the valance. I just use Aleene's "tack it over & over".

  • laxsupermom
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Oceanna, you are too kind. You're absolutely right about the way you see things in pics that you don't see normally. It took me a looooong time to start posting pics, because every time I took one, I'd pull it up on the computer and gasp at the dust or nicks or what have you.

    The french doors were the same size as the slider that was there. I pulled the interior trim off and measured from stud to stud to get the size of the opening, then ordered. I think it would have been a standard door if I got the in-swing ones, but they didn't have any out-swings in stock.

    I think suero's math is right on. I liked your idea of banding the coordinating valance fabric at the top shorter than the valance to make up for the shortage, although more experienced seamstresses should weigh in on that.

  • oceanna
    Original Author
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Thank you Suero for following through on the math! That's why I think I should just forget trying to pay attention to matching the repeat. The curtain will be open almost all the time anyway so I can fold it so that seam doesn't show. It might never be closed in front of guests.

    My rod expands to 88"w. The window is 67w (not counting wood trim) + 15" clearance to get curtains off the window = 82". The window is not centered on the wall. There is actually about 3" more wall on the right than on the left.

    How did you arrive at that 15" figure? Would it be 7.5" if I do two curtain panels, one on each side? If yes, then I can. That would keep the left curtain out of the dogs' way. I do have a planter there, too, that would make them clear it.

    But I was just thinking I could maybe make two curtains and pull them to both sides. The important thing would be having the left curtain off the window.

    Another option would be to do Roman shades like Gracie did, and do one panel (57"w, no pattern matching necessary) on each side because they don't have to pull closed at any time. But that's more work and expense.

    Gracie I LOVE the idea of washable. I'm pretty sure this fabric isn't. :( I always aim for washable because it's practical. Are you saying you can launder those Roman shades? You did an amazing job of coordinating your colors. It looks like expensive custom made.

    Laxsupermom you were smart to order doors that fit exactly with your trim off. I got to thinking about French doors there. I remembered that I leave my slider open and the screen door closed a LOT in the summer. Can't do that with French doors. So maybe I need to stick with my slider. I sure wish I could glue a grid on them, though. Going to think about that. I love grids on windows... paid big bucks to get grids on my new windows in my last house, then sold the house about 4 months later (stupid me). These windows have no grids but don't need replacing. It drives me nuts because my parrots sometimes fly into the windows. I need grids. And they're pretty to me. Thanks for answering about banding on the top under the valence! I'm thinking that's the way to go.

  • suero
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I pulled the 15" out of the air. It was a guess, but an educated one, based on pulling the drape to one side. If you were to have the drapes pull to both sides, then, yes, you'd allocate the stacking equally to each side.

  • paint_chips
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    You know what I have been thinking about today? LOL

    Sue is right, you will be a bit short. You could do banding, but you know, I was thinking about that today and wonder if it won't be an issue because usually the fabric at the bottom is heavier in weight to that at the top. Because you are using uphostery fabric, I am just gussing that the bottom part would end up being a lighter weight. I can't envision that hanging properly.

    : /

    Read IF you need a friend to tell you the truth:

    Do you have to use that fabric? This might be one of those projects where you need to bite the bullet and get what you need rather than trying to force something on hand to work. I know that you have an *incredible* knack of pulling off projects, but I worry that this won't turn out exactly the way you think.

    -Paint Chips (who hopes she is wrong so she can cheer your success)

  • pollyannacorona
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Oceanna, I like the fabric and I think it would be pretty to add a large solid piece at the bottom, like a dupioni silk in tan or taupe whichever is the match to your background color. JMHO, good luck.

  • oceanna
    Original Author
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Suero thanks for the answer. Then it sounds like I could do two curtains.

    Paint Chips, I was going to just use a valance that matches my LR drapes, that I ordered specifically for that. But the suggestion was made on my DR post that I use this instead, and the more I've hung out with the idea, the more I've liked it. Also my (snooty) neighbor saw it and said it would be perfect, which surprised me. hehe. But what about my banding the top, then covering the banding with a matching (matching the banding) valance? That could give me plenty of fabric.

    Pollyanna thanks. Do you think that will look too modern next to my antiques? The colors in the fabric are burgundy and gold, both subdued/darkish.

    Here is a better picture of this beautiful fabric, which incidentally, Les picked out...

    Everyone, shall I...

    1- split it into two panels, one on each side?

    or

    2- make one curtain that pulls all to the right?

    I'm inclined to do #1 because I like symmetry, and the trim around the door is not at all spectacular. This is just an unremarkable white vinyl sliding glass door. But I want to be sure I could keep it out of the dogs' way. With #2 it would be far away from the dogs.

    I suppose I should scrub the dog nose schmutz off the door too? It will just reappear, though. hehe

  • jjam
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Hi Oceanna,

    You were so helpful to me with my drapes so I wanted to chime in...(an update is coming soon :))I like the idea of the contrasting band but I think you have to be very careful with the weight of the fabric you choose for the contrast. The chenille upholstery weight you have can work for panels, but if you do a contrasting panel it must be heavy as well, or it will not look or hang properly. I'm not good at posting links but I'll try one here:

    http://www.fabricguru.com/cart/index.php?target=products&product_id=69679

    (OK, ignore that, use the link at the bottom of the message. I think I got that one to work.)

    I've seen this fabric used as a contrasting band for WT's before and it looks great. Also, keep in mind, though, that you may not need as much fullness as you normally would since the fabric is so heavy.

    Also, if you have a Habitat re-use store, they are a great place to look for french doors.

    You are an inspiration, Oceanna, keep going....your projects are beautiful.

    PS: A little OT but the dragonfly fabric is killer on DR chairs... I've used it before and it's fantastic

    Here is a link that might be useful: dragonfly fabric

  • dilly_dally
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    "Dilly, do you think they're clashy?"

    No. No, not at all. They look great in the same room together. I am just considering how they would look right up against each other with the drapes hanging to the floor right next to, or even touching, the carpeting. The band at the bottom would separate them and make the eye restful.

    A band at the bottom would make them more elegant also. Since you are able to sew you are lucky to be able to make the drapes exactly the way you wish, to fit the space.

  • oceanna
    Original Author
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Oh my gosh Jjam! I know that fabric. I LOVE that fabric! I LOVE dragonfly motifs! I have drooled over the fabric for years. You don't know how close I came to using it on my dining room chairs. I even brought a swatch home. Trouble is, my Joanns only had it in the lighter, more peachy colorwave. It was too luminous for the look I wanted. But the url you gave me appears to be a subdued burgundy, doesn't it? The other one I love is the bumblebee one that is very similar. But the dragonflies are The Best. Do I dare order it and just hope it will match? I am so happy if I was able to help you, and thanks for letting me know. You've made my day! I think I'll call Joannes first and see if they now have it in the burgundy.

    Dilly the drapes won't touch the carpet. They'll be on the maple flooring instead. I do see your point. But I have long loved the look of the contrasting valance at the top as shown in Gracie's pictures. The fabric is elegant, and I think I'll do a bullion fringe, which is very elegant. If I do the dragonflies, I'm not sure how good that would look by the carpet either. But I can certainly get the fabric and then decide which way to put it, top or bottom.

    Help! How much of the contrasting fabric should I buy?

  • jjam
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Oceanna, I have seen the dragonfly fabric in a subdued burgundy. I'll bet that is it from fabricguru. But they will send you a sample for $1.00. I'd do that and then you'll know for sure.

  • jejvtr
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    oceanna
    Still following - glad the more experienced sewers have chimned in - I like the fabric & you may be right about the symmetry as long as it functions the way you want. A pic of the door may help w/those helping here to visualize - esp regarding stack to one side or double.

    I just hemmed lined drapes - & feel like I have accomplished quite a feat! I made my first Roman shade - lined, battons, cord pull, etc... The workmanship came out great (took me FOREVER) but.... I don't like the fabric... dd room, so I'm in a holding pattern - - decorating is hard

    Glad you are moving along - try posting a pic & maybe someone would do a photoshop of several options - but dont cut that fabric until you are sure of what you would like to do.

    good luck!

  • oceanna
    Original Author
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Jjam, thank you very much for confirming what I thought, that it does come in a deeper, duller burgundy. You're right, if I want it I should request a sample first, rather than risking wasting about $50.

    Jejvtr, congratulations on your hemming and on your first Roman shade! I never did one but I've read the directions and it looks quite involved and time consuming. How sad you don't like the fabric. Would you like it if you dyed it? That would spoil the lining, though. Will you sell it or use it? I wonder if it would be perfect for anyone here? You should at least post it and brag about your accomplishments. I've thought about doing one some time, and maybe several here have too.

    Here is a pic of the window after I took the old valance down but before I got the new table, chairs and chandy.

    I did the math and I think if I want to do the topper as discussed I need about 4.5 yards. If I want to make the bottom of the curtain a contrast, I need 5 yards.

    I have one other thought, and that is putting border band on the bottom and inside edge of 2 panels. These are my fave curtains I saved a picture of. Horchow used to carry them...

    I think I'll go to Joanns and see what they have in the way of decorative stripes, or whatever in their Home Dec department.

  • jejvtr
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Thanks Oceanna - I will post my recent accomplishments -
    & some fabrics as well.

    I'm leaning on the symmetry in your lovely DR - meaning if you could do 2 panels that draw 1 to each side looks like enough room for the stack to be out of the way for dogs. And given that they will be open most of the time, I think it would look much nicer - You could throw the fabric up over the existing rod to live with it for awhile, will help your search for the right solution. I had no rod, so had my panel over a hanger stuck in the window shade hardware hole, for awhile - It looked "special" but helped
    - I'm pretty sure of the answer, but is there another door for the dogs to use?

  • oceanna
    Original Author
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Jejvtr, I agree about the symmetry.

    I just got back from Joann Fabrics. I found the perfect gold chenille fabric to complement the fabric I have. Now I know for sure what I'm doing. There will be two panels. Each will have a 5" gold band on the bottom and on the inside edge (when pulled shut there will be a double gold band down the center, and one on the bottom, but none on the top or outside edges).

    I am pretty sure I can keep the curtain out of the dog's way. I can always use a tieback if needed. But if I can't, I will reverse the two curtains' places on the rod and sweep it all to the right. That way the outside edges and the bottom will be gold (and still not the top).

    Oddly enough, the part I'm aprehensive about isn't the measuring/cutting or sewing... it's taking down the old hardware and hanging the new rod. I may have to wait until I can get a helper for that before I can get the curtains up. I tried to do the one in the living room alone and messed it up, and had a devil of a time getting the curtains up (rod kept falling off far end) by myself. My son finally had to fix what I did with the center rest part (got it too low).

    Thanks, everyone, for all your help!!! I'll have to post a picture when it's all finished.

  • jejvtr
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Oceanna

    Enjoy following your progress - Taking the old hardware down is the easy part - if you like where that rod hung then you can hang the new in same location. IF not, it will be a little tricky. DH hung our new ones, I was the assistant. A little tricky in the sense that our walls are plaster - I got the right drill bit for masonary/plaster the rest was just patience, using level, measuring 2/3/4x -

    I could switch with you - you can cut my fabrics & I'll hang your hardware!

    Good luck cant wait to see - oh, I would put the fabric up hanging from the existing rod before cutting -

  • oceanna
    Original Author
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Jejvtr, I can do the rod work better if I have someone supporting the other end -- same with using a level. I just don't have enough hands. You make a good point about measuring from what's there. The cutting challenge is about getting it straight. Having one of those grid pads, a good straight edge and wheel cutter really helps. The sewing is just straight lines, but it's big and heavy so that's kind of a drag -- literally. lol But seriously, it shouldn't be a big deal.