You can run a pond without a mechanical filter. Plants roots can do the job, you just need to add the plants and lots of them (I believe it's called a biological filter). Keep in mind I am new and haven't even filled my pond yet so I am just telling you what I have read ;) As for the fish, I would use the pond water to fill the pools to prevent shock and put some sort of air stone or something in the pools to create bubbles or the fish might die. There are many helpful people on here that I am sure will be posting more detailed and useful information soon.

Hi I got all the parts, need to build the assembly before installing the bypass on the water main entering the house. Couple more questions: - because of space constraints I need to remove the ball valve on the house side, so my only option is to shut off the water before the water meter near the sidewalk. Any risk doing so? It looks like a 1/4 turn ball valve. - is this the correct procedure for shutting off water? 1) turn water heater thermostat to off 2) close ball valve on cold water supply to water heater 3) close ball valve before meter near sidewalk 4) open lowest faucet and drain 5) perform repairs 6) turn water back on at sidewalk 7) reopen ball valve on water heater 8) set thermostat on heater to where it was Cheers, CG

You need to be sure as to what type of pipe this is. Get a magnet. If this is a galvanized iron pipe, then the magnet will stick to it. If it really is brass, then the magnet won't be attracted to it at all. Whether this pipe is brass or galvanized, it will have threaded ends on it that screw into fittings. Only copper is put together using solder. Therefore, you either have to put a thread on the cut end or you have to follow that cut pipe back to the fitting it is threaded into and then remove it. Once you do that, then you can thread a copper or brass fitting into that galvanized fitting and go with copper or pex from there. Not what you wanted to hear.

If you enjoy soldering never let it be said that I stood in your way because I too enjoy soldering however let us examine what the differences in flow would be. When computing pipe friction we must first compute the "Total Developed Length of Pipe (TDLP)". TDLP is the physical length of the actual pipe + the additional friction losses introduced by fittings, which is know as "Fitting Insertion Loss (FIL)". The Fitting Insertion loss is different for each type and size of fitting however it is always expressed as an equivalent length of straight pipe that would introduce the same amount of friction. The FIL does vary considerably from one type of fitting to another and it also varies by the diameter of the fittings so it is important to check the actual fitting insertion loss tables, You will no doubt be using 1/2" copper for these lines so let us examine the FIL for 1/2" 45deg elbows and 1/2" 90deg elbows. The 1/2" 90 elbow FIL is 1Â of pipe. The 1/2" 45 elbow FIL is 0.5' of pipe. You would be using two 45deg elbows in place of a 90deg elbow therefore the FIL with two 45elbows would be 2x 0.5' = 1ft of pipe. Therefore to answer your quandary, there would be no difference in flow in which case I personally would use the 90Âs to minimize the number of joints that could possibly fail in future, and if I felt I still needed to play with the torch I would just go to the bench and solder up a little high chair for my nieces doll babies.