I had a plumber run a natural gas line out to my Weber grill. He then installed the natural gas adapter to the Weber grill. There is a shut off valve near where it comes out of the house. And one in the basement which I shut off if I'm not going to be using it for awhile, like over the winter. I can't tell you how much easier it is than schlepping those heavy gas tanks (not to mention running out while grilling something!) and how easy it is to turn it on and off. I simply turn the valve on, then turn the grill knobs to "on" and grill as long as I want. Then when it's time to turn it off, I turn off the knobs and then the valve. If I buy a new gas grill I'll buy one that is designed for natural gas use. Having the natural gas hookup has made grilling as easy as using my gas stove inside. So far as the igniter, my broke early on, but I didn't replace it. I just use one of those red pistol type candle lighters that fit in the lighting hole safely. Whoooshhhh!

Java, Has the grill ever worked when attached to this stub out? If not, you might want to check (or have the plumber check) the connection of the gas line from the stub out to the main manifold. It's likely in the attic. If it's not the main connection, the quick-connect you are using SHOULD cause the gas to flow when seated and the house-mounted fittings SHOULD close when the quick-connect is undone. The Someone over on the plumbing board probably can answer your questions best since it seems like a plumbing or fitting issue of some kind and not one related to the grill itself. Michelle

I have used a ventless natural gas fireplace for the past 5 years in our living room. We understand the concerns about these types of units and have taken precautions to protect our health and home. Our 1900 house breaths better than I do! Last year we had an intermittent problem with the fireplace shutting off during use with an audible 'click'. This year the issue has increased and the fireplace will only run for a few minutes before shutting down, pilot included. The pilot re-lights immediately and the burner can be re started but again after a few minutes, click, everything goes out. I purchased and installed a new thermocouple thinking it was going bad but alas, have the same problem. It is almost like a safety feature for over temp that seems to be controlling this.

Removed old emergency shut off valve and capped the pipe off outside the house. Repressurized the lines inside the house and they held at 15 psi. Replaced the emergency shut off valve and placed it in the off position. Repressurized the guest house lines and everything is holding at 15 psi. I had to get the 1-1/4" valve at a plumbing supply house as Home Depot does not carry them. Moral of the story is these emergency shut off valves can leak internally. As to the question of why I pressurized to 15 psi to test the lines is because most building codes require it or somewhere around this pressure. If it holds at the higher pressure then most likely if will never leak at less than 1 psi. My problem is fixed...I hope this post helps someone else in the future.