Per Code all fixtures with the exception of a shower mixer MUST HAVE an individual shutoff valve, except when the fixtures are served by individual lines from a manifold the manifold valve may serve as the required individual shutoff if each valve on the manifold is specifically labelled to indicate what fixture it serves.

There are no hard and fast rules about where the manifold can be placed except it must be immediately accessible. Placing it inside a service panel in the immediate vicinity of the bathroom would be perfectly acceptable.

Ref:
Inernational Residential Code IRC 2903.8.6
Uniform Plumbing Code UPC 610.4

But, if it were me, I would also have the conventional stop at any toilet. That fixture is the only one that normally needs an Âemergency brake.Â

Pinoke

Thanks Lazypup and Pinocchio for your valuable input.
Assuming that I do the single shutoff valve at the manifold for the lavoratory, I'm wondering how to make the hose look good. I guess most pex is colored. I've seen some advertising about sort of stainless sheethes that go over it. If I'm not using a shutoff valve at the fixture, I need to figure out how to make the host look good coming from the wall. I should be able to run them fairly high and tight to the pedestal sink to where they are hopefully not visible. The toilet however is a different story. Any ideas?
I have a number of plumbing books, but I'd really like one that is exclusive to pex. Anybody know if one exists and/or is any good?
Thanks again for your help.
Jeff

The PEX is intended to be run in the wall and should not be used for the exposed portion from the wall to the fixture. PEX should not be run in any application where it is constantly exposed to ultraviolet.

I've noted the warnings about exposing pex to sunlight.
Vanguard's pdf for pex install states the following: "Depending on the fixture being supplied, local code requirements and crimp tool availability, there are several options available to
connect PEX distribution lines to fixtures. The following illustrations apply to fittings available from Vanguard Piping Systems, Inc. "
then it shows illustrations connecting to fixtures. I don't know from the drawings or part numbers that they show whether the connecting lines are pex or just some other non-pex that they offer in their product line for connecting to fixtures. But, it sort of implies that they're using pex (note the part about using a crimp tool). Maybe mild indoor light is not such an issue as direct sunlight ?
But, I guess if there's any question about this, I can use non-pex lines to connect to the fixtures. Thanks for your input.

Hi Lazypup,
I got on the Vanguard site to see if I could get more information about connecting to fixtures. They are showing connections directly to the fixtures and stating it (below).
"The flexibility of PEX allows one continuous length of tubing from the MANABLOC (pex manifold) directly to each fixture."
Maybe they're referring more to their pex ultra product which is three layered pex with an internal black layer to ruduce uv.
But, anyway, this still doesn't address my original question of how to make it look good. I guess probably the only tubing that will show will be the toilet connection and I supposed a white tube would look ok.

Hi,
I wanted also to run by you the manifold configuration I'm planning. Could be it's a goofy idea...
What I have in mind is to put the pex manifold in the wall beneath the shower fixture. I wanted to use a 3/4" in and out of the manifold, such that the out connection would be directly to the shower fixture. The remaining connections on the manifold going to all other fixtures would be 1/2".
My logic for the 3/4" going to the shower only, is good water pressure for the shower. I realize that most shower heads have the flow-reducers anyway, but I plan to use one with the removable flow reducer. Do you think 3/4" will make much difference from this distance (2 or 3 feet).

When the PEX is run inside the wall such as to the shower mixer or in a base cabinet such as to a kitchen or lavatory faucett the wall or cabinet afford it the necessary UV protection, however there is another problem that should also be considered before connecting the PEX directly to the fixture. If you attach the barb fitting to the faucett, then crimp the PEX to the barb fitting you have no union, therefore if it should be necessary to change that faucett in future you would have to cut the PEX.

The customary practice is to run the PEX to a copper stub out at the wall, then run a conventional compression type supply tube from the wall to the fixture. If you don't desire to install the angle stop you can get a copper sweat x compression adapter to transition from the copper stub-out to the supply tube.

Properly sizing PEX lines is another matter entirely. When running PEX you should not use the same diameter as when running copper or CPVC. Properly the PEX should be about one nominal trade size smaller. The reasoning is that copper pipe must be sized to insure the velocity of flow does not exceed 10ft/min in order to prevent pipe wall erosion. On the other hand, in order to minimize the potential for the formation of Biofilm on the inside of the pipe walls PEX tubing should be sized to insure a flow velocity of 10 to 12ft/sec.

Boy, it never ceases to amaze me, what some mothers name their children. Well, Jeff B., there you have it. In plumbing, there are usually a number of options.

One more option, if you run PEX to a shower valve, you can terminate it with an adapter that receives PEX and becomes FIP. And a cheaper version of it is actually the better choice: a swivel connector.

It emulates a pipe joint union. This allows you to swap out a faucet, or valve, without cutting the PEX. Of course the braided supply tubes work the same way, and give you that clean and good look you want where exposed.

Pinoke

Hmmm. I responded twice to this thread yesterday, previewed and submitted (I hope), but now are not here.
Lazypup, I think I'll take your advice about the fixture connections, e.g. non-pex.
Pinoccio, using the adapter to get the thread connector also sounds like a really good idea.
Thanks very much for your help guys.

This might be off the subject but does anyone know where I can obtain a 3/4 x 3/4 manifold not a 3/4 by 1/2... I have looked everywhere but cant find a manifold with a 3/4" outlet with shutoff valves. Please help as I am doing my water piping over again...thanks