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Plumbing fitting questions, copper, PEX, etc

15 years ago

I've just done some re-plumbing around a water heater in our house, which lead me to 3 questions:

1. Can I reuse PEX fittings? I had to cut out a few during the rework, and I use stainless steel pinch type crimp rings which can be removed as per the manufacturer's information. Is the actual fitting deformed in any way while crimping, or can I reuse them after taking off the crimp ring? ( I know, I know, PEX fittings don't cost a lot of money, just curious, and cheap :))

2. Is a copper union a one time use fitting? If I install one, then loosen it to remove one part of the pipe, can I re-tighten the same fitting, or it it deformed once and then won't reseal?

3. Similar to #2, how about a water heater installation compression fitting on flexible pipe? The original install had BrassCraft brand flexible brass pipe connect the water heater nipple and a male threaded fitting attached to the PEX line. I removed one, and replumbed using PEX directly. There is a brass ring beside the rubber washer in the female end of the compression fitting. This looks like it deforms with tightening. Can it be reinstalled on another fitting, or has the ring deformed once and that's it? If so, are new rings available, or is it a one time use item?

TIA!

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Comments (4)

jason1083
15 years ago
1) not sure
2) yes
3) no
jay_haitch
Original Author
15 years ago
I guess I deserved that :) My circumlocutary loquatiousness holds me in no good stead.

2) yes, copper unions can be retightend?

3) no that compression fitting cannot be reused?
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Cash Acme, based in Alabama, offers SharkBite Push-Fittings that would be ideal for your application. SharkBite fittings can be connected to cPVC, PEX, and Copper in any combination with no tools. It is certified for underground and behind-the-wall applications. You can pressure test immediately with no wait time. Also it is certified up to 200F and 200psi. Here is a link that might be useful: SharkBite Product Info
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If you are not moving a single piece of copper to accomodate some change in fixtures, then I see no need to disturb anything. A house that old, likely has the heavier wall thickness and if you are not on a softener, there will likely be a layer of calcium covering the copper insides of the pipes.
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The crimp ring system uses a gauge shaped like a "C" to go over the ring after it is compressed on the PEX to check if it was compressed properly for its size on the pipe. The SS pinch clamp system has a small gauge that in inserted into the tool pinch end after it is closed down to its last ratchet. If the gauge can be inserted past the "no go" ridge, time to repair/replace the tool. And your right the one tool on the SS pinch clamps works for 3/8" to 1". (1" takes some effort) For the record, I prefer the SS pinch clamps. At one time, Radiant Technologies Inc., (RTI) had the restricted patent on this method of PEX crimping. Little did anyone know, they were owned by Wirsbo. Well they were growing faster than Wirsbo in the east, and Wirsbo closed them. In the meantime Wirsbo changed their name to the parent company Uponor, the patent ended and not only Uponor added the tool and clamps to their product catalog to complement their failing in popularity expansion sleeve method, companies like Zurn and others picked up the SS pinch method. Today the clamps and tools are available everywhere, including from the Chinese. Hope that explains it coolvt
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shadow700
15 years ago
I'm not sure if this is what you meant, but does #3 state that you connected PEX directly to the water heater?

I can't speak for all PEX manufacturers, but the ones I am familiar with specifically forbid the installation of PEX for the first 18" going in or out of a water heater. That is, you need 18" of something else between the HW heater and the PEX.
jay_haitch
Original Author
15 years ago
I didn't want to bog down my post with too much information, but to clarify, I added a 40 Imp. gal Giant brand (made in Quebec) electric water heater in series to the 75 US gal Marathon water heater I spec'd for our house, completed last year. The 105 gal Marathon I initially calculated would be enough for us is not available in Canada. The 75 US gal Marathon is mostly adequate, but the Mrs. wanted a greater reserve capacity, so I am experimenting with this set up. We have 43F incoming water temps in winter. In a few years I want to finish the mechanical room, and then I will buy a second Marathon tank.

We have very hard water, 36 (thirty six) grains, with a 70,000 grain softener. I want Marathon tanks due to their polybutylene/fibreglass construction, so no need for a rapidly consumed anode rod, nothing to rust. I know this steel tank won't last long with my heavily softened water, so I just bought a standard tank to see if this combo makes the Mrs. happy.

So yes, I placed 3/4 PEX onto a PEX/FIP adapter directly onto the hot water nipple of the Marathon tank. The 18 inch copper stub you speak of is needed for gas water heaters, because of the hot flue right next to the pipes.

My Marathon set up from the plumber had 2 BrassCraft flexible copper lines from the nipples to 3/4 PEX that runs throughout the house. We have a recirc line, 3/4 PEX not 1/2 for some reason piped to a Grundfos recirc pump that is plumbed into the drain port of the Marathon tank as per Marathon's recommendations. I removed one flexible copper line to connect the hot Marathon port to the cold Giant port. I thought of installing copper stubs with unions on the Marathon tank, but I had left over PEX so I used that instead.

So my number 3 question is can I reuse the flexible copper water heater connector if I choose, or is the crushed copper ring next to the rubber washer a one time only item? If so, are these copper rings available separately?

Thanks.

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